Your shock method ?

[Frank211]

Ive filled shocks, so i have no problem doing them, but whats your way of doing them? Is there only one way of doing them, like some , some will put the shaft halfway up or all the way up, maybe put oil half way ,or some shit like that ?
The internel shocks don't use oil,(thats what some say) some add a lil and stuff like that.
So is there a special way to do shocks , or just add oil, let bubbles come out then cap them off and presto, shocks. Thanks guys !

[durok]

Originally Posted by Frank211

Ive filled shocks, so i have no problem doing them, but whats your way of doing them? Is there only one way of doing them, like some , some will put the shaft halfway up or all the way up, maybe put oil half way ,or some shit like that ?
The internel shocks don't use oil,(thats what some say) some add a lil and stuff like that.
So is there a special way to do shocks , or just add oil, let bubbles come out then cap them off and presto, shocks. Thanks guys !

GMade has product manuals gathered all in one location - see link below, then scroll through to the shocks - they have pretty detailed instructions for each type of shock, and the XD diaphragm shocks that I just bought actually have a high-pressure or low-pressure assembly method.

I don't know what shocks you have - but these instructions may be useful...

http://www.gmade.net/support/product...l/?ckattempt=1

Direct link to XD Diaphragm assembly instructions:

http://gmadekorea1.cafe24.com/wp/wp-.../xdd_shock.pdf

I haven't filled shocks in years, but I'm about to be building Traxxas Big-Bores, the GMade XD Diaphragm 103mm's, and I also have a pair of internally-sprung Xtra-Speed cheapies that I haven't decided if I will use as secondary shocks with or without oil on the rear of a Bomber. Fun!

[2mtech]

For me, this was one topic where the more you read or watch on the Tube of You the more you learn and the less you know. Ask five people and you'll get six different opinions/techniques.

I've personally found full extension, fill to meniscus, slowly bleed, allow 10 minute vertical rest, cap and install to work the most consistently to achieve the desired rebound after compression, but usually even with that approach three will behave properly and one will deviate. Apparently it's not a Swiss watch...

Internally sprung types I use only green slime and call it a day...have yet to find any that actually retain oil, although the Desert Lizards come close.

[Greatscott]

I take most maintenance and repair tasks that come with RC as part of the hobby, and enjoy most of them, building and rebuild shocks are not things I enjoy. With that, put everything together using Green Slime, extend the shock fully, fill about 3/4 full, bring the piston up about half way, then pull it back down getting air bubble out. With that big air bubble out the shock is normally about half full, I refill to about 3/4 cycle the shock again and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I give it one more cycle to make sure the air is out, fill it to the top, put the cap on until it is almost sealed, move the piston up, shock oil comes out, and tighten the cap. I cycle the shock making sure it has just a little bit of rebound and call it good. If the rebound is too much I crack the cap open, allow a bit more oil to come out and test it again.

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by Greatscott

I take most maintenance and repair tasks that come with RC as part of the hobby, and enjoy most of them, building and rebuild shocks are not things I enjoy. With that, put everything together using Green Slime, extend the shock fully, fill about 3/4 full, bring the piston up about half way, then pull it back down getting air bubble out. With that big air bubble out the shock is normally about half full, I refill to about 3/4 cycle the shock again and let it sit for about 10 minutes. I give it one more cycle to make sure the air is out, fill it to the top, put the cap on until it is almost sealed, move the piston up, shock oil comes out, and tighten the cap. I cycle the shock making sure it has just a little bit of rebound and call it good. If the rebound is too much I crack the cap open, allow a bit more oil to come out and test it again.

Now I have to try this.

[84yoda]

It really depends on type of shock (bladder or no bladder) and how much rebound you want.

[mewalsh100]

1.) Shock shaft fully extended. 2.) Fill with your desired oil weight - I use a syringe because you can measure and get the exact same oil volume in all 4 shocks (posted in tips section). 3.) Once the shock is full of oil, and with the shock cap off, very slowly cycle the shock up and down. You're keeping an eye out for air bubbles here and trying to expel them all. 4.) Once that is complete, re-install your shock cap. (make sure the shock shaft is fully extended when installing the shock cap) Now is also a real good time to cycle the shock again, without the spring, to ensure that the shock is fully returning to max travel / extension. If you've captured some air in them, they often won't extend all the way back out. If this happens, remove the shock cap again, cycle some more, re-intall the shock cap being careful to ensure the shock shaft is fully extended again as you do so. 5.) Install your spring and set your sag (shocks with collars). Should be good to go. This method has served me well with both crawlers and go-fast race rigs.

As others stated, you cal also use an additive like green slime to help prevent leaks.

[Greatscott]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

It really depends on type of shock (bladder or no bladder) and how much rebound you want.

Very good point. This is for shocks with bladders.

[HumboldtEF]

I used to fill the shocks to the max to get the maximum rebound but I've since switched to the method GreatScott mentioned. I dont think getting the max rebound is necessary, you just need it to slow down the springs with RC.

Its definitely a lot less trouble to do this low pressure method, if you've ever tried the high pressure way you'll know how fiddly it is getting just the right amount of oil.

[84yoda]

A tip for everyone, a shock air pump bleeder helps a ton. Especially on brand new shocks. Shocks trap a ton of air and you'll be amazed at all the air that comes up using the pump. It'll work on used shock as well since when you do a rebuild, air gets entered back in.

Another tip for bladder shocks to help figure out oil level, is have an extra bladder or pull the one in your cap out first. Fill up shock to top (while doing the necessary air bleeding), set your rebound then drop the bladder on top and seal it to the body with your finger or non pointy object. If no oil leaks out then your going to have air. You want oil to leak out meaning you'll have no air bubbles. Then put cap on if you used the bladder from the cap or if you used an extra bladder, pull it off then install your cap with bladder already inside cap.

Doing both of those helped me a lot. And I hate doing shocks. Lol.

[HumboldtEF]

I've never heard of those before, very interesting.

I found Tamiya makes one

and a video showing it in use if anyone else was curious

[84yoda]

Sorry, I should have added a link to it. But yes the tamiya is what I have as well. Its a good investment, since time is money and you can bleed 4 shocks at once. Instead of waiting 5-10mins per shock and hope all the air is bleed out.

[Frank211]

So i ended buying these



Its funny that the back states shock oil between 30-50wt , ive never heard of that before,that's way new to me.

[durok]

Originally Posted by Frank211

Its funny that the back states shock oil between 30-50wt , ive never heard of that before,that's way new to me.

What do you mean by that?

RPP Hobbies carries shock oils in weights of 20-100...

[Frank211]

Originally Posted by durok

What do you mean by that?

RPP Hobbies carries shock oils in weights of 20-100...

It just new to me to hear that you cant put nothing lower than 30wt and nothing higher than 50wt oil ,if i understand correctly(that what it says on the back of the package of the shocks)
Probably not understanding it correctly tho.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Frank211

It just new to me to hear that you cant put nothing lower than 30wt and nothing higher than 50wt oil ,if i understand correctly(that what it says on the back of the package of the shocks)
Probably not understanding it correctly tho.

It says 30wt-50wt "recommended" not that you cant go lower

[angrchair]

i fill mine up most of the way, run the piston up and down a few times, I'm impatient so I let them sit for like just a minute or two.

Then I fill them to the top, thread the cap on just enough, push the piston up and slowly tighten the cap, works well for no air bubbles and a full fill.