Traxxas TRX-4 RTR or Kit

[Billy1205]

Hi, I'm new to crawler. I'm planning to buy TRX-4, may I know should I go for RTR or Kit? As what I heard kit provide a upgraded part.

[StomperCrawler]

Originally Posted by Billy1205

Hi, I'm new to crawler. I'm planning to buy TRX-4, may I know should I go for RTR or Kit? As what I heard kit provide a upgraded part.

If it were me I'd go with the new "Sport" version:
https://traxxas.com/products/landing/trx-4-sport/

[OSRC]

The basic differences between the kit and the Bronco/Defender RTR's are the bodies and price. They are identical chassis-wise. There are no upgraded parts in the kit like Axial normally does. I think that is what you are asking.

The sport RTR above does away with the 2 speed and locking diffs.

[Topher Builds]

I’d suggest the kit for only one of the following reasons: 1.) you really want to build a kit 2.) you don’t like the bronco, tactical, or defender bodies and have another body in mind 3.) you find a smoking deal on a kit

Otherwise pick your favorite of the available bodies, or wait for the simplified and cheaper sport, and have a blast!

[Billy1205]

Originally Posted by OSRC

The basic differences between the kit and the Bronco/Defender RTR's are the bodies and price. They are identical chassis-wise. There are no upgraded parts in the kit like Axial normally does. I think that is what you are asking.

The sport RTR above does away with the 2 speed and locking diffs.

Yes, that's what I mean. Since it doesn't come with any upgraded parts then I will go for RTR due to I like the defender body

[Billy1205]

Originally Posted by Pant Danza

I’d suggest the kit for only one of the following reasons: 1.) you really want to build a kit 2.) you don’t like the bronco, tactical, or defender bodies and have another body in mind 3.) you find a smoking deal on a kit

Otherwise pick your favorite of the available bodies, or wait for the simplified and cheaper sport, and have a blast!

May I know what's the different between RTR defender body and the sport version?

[high plains drifter]

Originally Posted by Billy1205

May I know what's the different between RTR defender body and the sport version?

The Defender version- approx $450 US, has a two-speed H/L transmission, remote locking differentials/ selectable, 324 mm wheelbase/ 586 mm overall length, silver or red metallic paint.

The Sport version- approx $340 US, has a single-speed transmission, locked spool differentials/ not selectable, 312 mm wheelbase/ 557 mm overall length, blue or red paint.

EDIT> Also:

Defender-
approach angle = 56.49 deg
departure angle = 41.67 deg
break-over angle = 56.97 deg

Sport-
approach angle = 58.82 deg
departure angle = 45.83 deg
break-over angle = 58.93 deg

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

The Defender version- approx $450 US, has a two-speed H/L transmission, remote locking differentials/ selectable, 324 mm wheelbase/ 586 mm overall length, silver or red metallic paint.

The Sport version- approx $340 US, has a single-speed transmission, locked spool differentials/ not selectable, 312 mm wheelbase/ 557 mm overall length, blue or red paint.

EDIT> Also:

Defender-
approach angle = 56.49 deg
departure angle = 41.67 deg
break-over angle = 56.97 deg

Sport-
approach angle = 58.82 deg
departure angle = 45.83 deg
break-over angle = 58.93 deg

ive been considering one of these too but to do a 1:1 and tell you what... after seeing what you put here, it makes me totally not want the sport.

my thoughts:

• why would i not want a 2 speed transmission?
• why would I not want remote locking diffs?
• do approach and departure angles matter to me? No.. I own a 8' bed on a chevy and drag its ass when i go to climb a hill.. thats why I got detroits front and rear!!!!!

and with the last comment I put... I have detroits in my 78 chevy and while it is great... there are times I can unlock one front hub for not a true lock but the rear I cant and wished I could....


thx for helping me decide. eventually ill go tactical to have a beater lid...

[JatoTheRipper]

I'd suggest the RTR Bronco. That body is expensive. If you don't like it you could sell it and make back the money for another body plus upgrades.

If you really like building then get the kit, but realize you'll have to put out more money for a body and paint.

[Greatscott]

Originally Posted by OSRC

The basic differences between the kit and the Bronco/Defender RTR's are the bodies and price. They are identical chassis-wise. There are no upgraded parts in the kit like Axial normally does. I think that is what you are asking.

The sport RTR above does away with the 2 speed and locking diffs.

One VERY important difference is wheel base. The Defender and Tactical versions have a 12.8" WB, and the Bronco, kit and the new Sport all have 12.3" WBs. There are not many bodies for the 12.8" WB, but you have lots of body options on the 12.3"

Recommend going with the Sport, it doesn't have locking diffs or the two-speed transmission, but you'll likely not miss them.

No matter which version you get, plan of replaced the steering servo. The 2075 servo only has 120oz of torque, which just is not enough for a rig this heavy. 200oz should be the bare minimum, and to 300+ is really what you want.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Greatscott

One VERY important difference is wheel base. The Defender and Tactical versions have a 12.8" WB, and the Bronco, kit and the new Sport all have 12.3" WBs. There are not many bodies for the 12.8" WB, but you have lots of body options on the 12.3"

Recommend going with the Sport, it doesn't have locking diffs or the two-speed transmission, but you'll likely not miss them.

No matter which version you get, plan of replaced the steering servo. The 2075 servo only has 120oz of torque, which just is not enough for a rig this heavy. 200oz should be the bare minimum, and to 300+ is really what you want.

I removed the stock XL-5 ESC in my Bronco and installed the HobbyWing WP 1080 ESC. I set the internal BEC to 6.0V and it really woke up the stock servo. It was definitely usable. But that was short lived because the extra juice quickly lunched the plastic gears. So, yes, definitely plan on replacing the steering servo.

[Topher Builds]

Originally Posted by RootBreaker

my thoughts:

• why would i not want a 2 speed transmission?
• why would I not want remote locking diffs?

More stuff to break, and adds a tiny bit of weight up high on the chassis with the different servos. It’s a lot of fun though with all the options to toggle, I’m a fan of them.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Pant Danza

More stuff to break, and adds a tiny bit of weight up high on the chassis with the different servos. It’s a lot of fun though with all the options to toggle, I’m a fan of them.

I agree. The 2-speed trans and remote locking diffs make the TRX-4 an extremely fun truck and completely different on the trails.

What's really cool is that you can climb a lot of things with open diffs if you choose your lines careful. The TRX-4 just works that damn well!

I couldn't imagine my TRX-4 without a 2-speed trans and locking diffs. I might do that if I had a second one.

[Topher Builds]

^^ precisely. It’s an ultimate trail truck, not just a truck that will slow crawl over some obstacles.

I sadly damaged my rear locking mechanism yesterday when installing steel alloy axle housings. On the fence about replacing or just locking forever. More to come on that in a different thread later

[svt923]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I couldn't imagine my TRX-4 without a 2-speed trans and locking diffs.

After almost a year of owning a TRX4, I have basically stopped using the 2 speed and pretty much only use the front diff lock. As time went on, that is all I found that was needed to get the performance I wanted out of it.

Single speed, locked diffs isn't that hard to imagine because that is basically how I ended up driving most of the time after lots of field testing.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by svt923

After almost a year of owning a TRX4, I have basically stopped using the 2 speed and pretty much only use the front diff lock. As time went on, that is all I found that was needed to get the performance I wanted out of it.

Single speed, locked diffs isn't that hard to imagine because that is basically how I ended up driving most of the time after lots of field testing.

Just the opposite for me. I keep the diffs unlocked until it's impossible to pass an obstacle. Only then do I lock them. I use the 2-speed often as well. Where I trail the most it's walking trails and mountain bike trails with obstacles and rocks strewn about. 2-speed and unlocked diffs are perfect for the flat part and then once I get to obstacles I have the option to gear down and lock the diffs.

But it's nice now that you have have your TRX-4 in either flavor.

[dacaur]

advantages of the sport?
less weight. Light lexan body, (two micro servos deleted plus the weight of the selectable lockers and cables, lighter transmission.)
Simpler, no locking diffs or two speed parts to go out.
two channel vs 4. Want a winch? well, its a lot easier on a sport. Have a nice 3 ch radio you want to use rather than the stock electronics?

As for the two speed transmission, well, this isn't a bashing truck, you aren't going to be driving it at high speed at the park, there are plenty of better trucks for that, so I really don't see the need for the two speed tranny.

Is it neat? Heck Yes! Is it needed or even really that usefull? NOPE....

As long as your truck can go as fast as you can walk, IMO, it doesn't need any more than that... I guess when out trail crawling you can shift into high and race to the next obstacle, then let it sit there till you catch up with it... (or run to it, which you will NEVER catch me doing)

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Greatscott

One VERY important difference is wheel base. The Defender and Tactical versions have a 12.8" WB, and the Bronco, kit and the new Sport all have 12.3" WBs. There are not many bodies for the 12.8" WB, but you have lots of body options on the 12.3"

hmmm interesting.. if I go to do a 1:1 ...
ive got a LWB ... so I need a 13.15" wheelbase... I haven't looked at this rig yet or pics, etc in depth... is it just as easy to make custom links with all thread and brake tubing????

The wheelbase length was extended to 117.5 in (2,985 mm) for the short wheelbase pickups, and 131.5 in (3,340 mm) for the long wheelbase pickups.


***********edited..

so for me.. I am going to hack some bodies together to make a chevy lwb truck so I'm not worried about weight for the rig...

just looked. yes seems easy to extend wb...

[Col_Sanders]

The Sport would be my choice if you are more performance oriented. They have dropped quite a bit of weight and complexity by getting rid of the lockers and 2 speed. The Bronco would be my choice for fun. As already mentioned, you can sell the body and recoup some $$ if you don't like it. Those bodies are going for ~$130 on ebay. T

he Land Rover would be my last choice. The wheelbase is odd and limits you on bodies. To shorten it you either have to buy or build rear links (and trim driveshaft). That body weighs a ton as well.

Originally Posted by RootBreaker

hmmm interesting.. if I go to do a 1:1 ...
ive got a LWB ... so I need a 13.15" wheelbase... I haven't looked at this rig yet or pics, etc in depth... is it just as easy to make custom links with all thread and brake tubing????

The wheelbase length was extended to 117.5 in (2,985 mm) for the short wheelbase pickups, and 131.5 in (3,340 mm) for the long wheelbase pickups.


***********edited..

so for me.. I am going to hack some bodies together to make a chevy lwb truck so I'm not worried about weight for the rig...

just looked. yes seems easy to extend wb...

It doesn't quite translate that easily. You pretty much have to work with the body options out there as far as wheelbase is concerned unless you're going to completely build your own body from scratch or 3d print.

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Col_Sanders

The Sport would be my choice if you are more performance oriented. They have dropped quite a bit of weight and complexity by getting rid of the lockers and 2 speed. The Bronco would be my choice for fun. As already mentioned, you can sell the body and recoup some $$ if you don't like it. Those bodies are going for ~$130 on ebay. T

he Land Rover would be my last choice. The wheelbase is odd and limits you on bodies. To shorten it you either have to buy or build rear links (and trim driveshaft). That body weighs a ton as well.




It doesn't quite translate that easily. You pretty much have to work with the body options out there as far as wheelbase is concerned unless you're going to completely build your own body from scratch or 3d print.

Gonna cutup 2x rc4wd blazer bodies... got the bodies but just havent started and never did this before. Hah.

Im traveling for work but when i get back. Gonna get my rcs working then start on this.
Ive got the tires and rims...

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