SCX10 II Drivetrain Q's - Many of them

[bo_rc]

There are a couple of threads I found with related topics, but I can't find specifics that I'm after. Hopefully, someone here can help and these are a mix of subjective/objective questions!

I running the stock trans on my Honcho, and want to change things up. This is what I'm after:

1. Lower gear for crawling
2. Less slop all around in the drivetrain (more so for the rear)
3. Adding weight down low for lower CoG
4. Maybe a dig transmission for better steering in high grip terrain?

I found a Hot Racing transmission that seems good, and it has an option for a dig later. Any comments on that? Are there better options out there?

Sounds like I would need to do something with the driveshafts with the Hot Racing One? what's that about?

Seems like I can gear that one really low. I'm not very concerned about high speed, although it would be cool if there was a two-speed transmission that could also have a dig installed....

Part of the reason I want lower gearing is for more control crawling (of course), but maybe the 'jumpyness' I'm feeling is due to the stock receiver/transmitter combo? Seems like there's lag in where power starts and it kind of 'lurches' around sometimes. If I go with a dig I need a new setup anyway to control that extra servo. Any recommendations? I saw a new transmitter that was waterproof/ruggedized somewhere....but any suggestions?

For axles and driveshafts I've got no clue what I'm doing. Stock clearance is OK for me, so I don't think I want portals. Durability, weight and ease of replacement parts are priorities. Any recommendations?

I'll stop there, I've got a million other questions about other things but I'll save those for later. I live on an island so there's not a lot of opportunities to meet with other people into the hobby.

Thanks all!

[lonleycreeper]

I have a Dx5 rugged on layaway at my lhs right now. Might be the radio you are thinking of. I have mostly spectrum stuff, though I do have some Tactic stuff as well. The old Dx4c have, allows for expo on throttle, giving my throttle trigger a curve, softening up the bottom but still giving me full throttle when needed.

Have you calibrated your esc? might eliminate or reduce that lurchiness. I have none in my stock Honcho

#1) Pinion gears are an easy way to lower gearing. 11t gear is about as small as you can go with the stock 56t spur. With the stock 13/56, you are already at 50 ish to 1 ratio. Another option is smaller tires.

#2) shim the axle gears. Traxxas sells a shim kit with .5mm shims I use to do this, though I haven't done it on either of my scx10II's. Setting the pinion spur mesh is also critical in this slop. 1/64th in the pinion/ spur mesh translates to nearly an inch at the tires. 50:1....

#3) I run rc4wd steel wheels on both my rigs and have't added any other extra weight. I recomend adding non rotating weight to the rig rather than rotating weight. I puts less strain on your drivetrain and gives you better performance. Heavy knuckles, diff covers, and axle housings are all avalible for the scx10II.

#4) I have never run a dig, but I own the hot racing dig. lol. The parts are nice, but you will probably need to make the rear driveshaft shorter, because it extends the driveshaft output about 1/2-3/4 inch. I have the rc4wd 2spd trans in one of my builds, and it introduces a lot of slop to the drivetrain. and the reality is while fun to shift gears, it doesn't really beneifit anything other than lower overall gearing in low.

And since threads are worthless without pictures.....

[ferp420]

I would start with a new pinnion gear i dont remeber what size your rig came with but i would go 2 teeth smaller from what you have that should solve alot of your issues in one shot with out spending alot of money
The slop is extremely hard and exspensive to get rid of ive personaly tryed almost every locker outthere and havent found one that eliminates slop even the ones that say you have to tap the shafts in to the lockers and it wasent what i exspected they had just as much slop as all the other lockers there are some that use setscrews to hold the shafts in place but evryone ive ever herd of that usses them says they constantly back out and strip out

For The lower center of gravity i say get metal alloy axles there under $20 a pop and theres no flex like the plastic axles so the gears last longer and they slide better than aluminum and weigh more

The turning radius i say just live with it but any wraith transmission should be dig ready or you can buy the vanquish dig box that bolts on to the old style 3 gear scx10 trans the dig compicates things some you need another servo and it introduces more slop to the drivetrain
I have front dig on my 1:1 and to this day i have never used it lol so i wouldent do it to one of my RCs unless i was going to do some comps with it

[bo_rc]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

I have a Dx5 rugged on layaway at my lhs right now. Might be the radio you are thinking of. I have mostly spectrum stuff, though I do have some Tactic stuff as well. The old Dx4c have, allows for expo on throttle, giving my throttle trigger a curve, softening up the bottom but still giving me full throttle when needed.

Have you calibrated your esc? might eliminate or reduce that lurchiness. I have none in my stock Honcho

#1) Pinion gears are an easy way to lower gearing. 11t gear is about as small as you can go with the stock 56t spur. With the stock 13/56, you are already at 50 ish to 1 ratio. Another option is smaller tires.

#2) shim the axle gears. Traxxas sells a shim kit with .5mm shims I use to do this, though I haven't done it on either of my scx10II's. Setting the pinion spur mesh is also critical in this slop. 1/64th in the pinion/ spur mesh translates to nearly an inch at the tires. 50:1....

#3) I run rc4wd steel wheels on both my rigs and have't added any other extra weight. I recomend adding non rotating weight to the rig rather than rotating weight. I puts less strain on your drivetrain and gives you better performance. Heavy knuckles, diff covers, and axle housings are all avalible for the scx10II.

#4) I have never run a dig, but I own the hot racing dig. lol. The parts are nice, but you will probably need to make the rear driveshaft shorter, because it extends the driveshaft output about 1/2-3/4 inch. I have the rc4wd 2spd trans in one of my builds, and it introduces a lot of slop to the drivetrain. and the reality is while fun to shift gears, it doesn't really beneifit anything other than lower overall gearing in low.

And since threads are worthless without pictures.....

Thanks for all the insight. That makes sense on removing play. I went in and double checked the mesh, and that took a bit out. Good call. Also found I'd stripped a couple teeth off the delrin stock gears so I replaced those with metal. That feels pretty good for now, sounds like it's easiest to just deal with the slop and focus on other things that'll make bigger differnece.

I've got some brass links coming, and added Beef Patties to the fronts. The future plan is those steel wheels and patties for the rear.

Would you recommend adding on (knuckles, etc) to the AR44 axles (if I got that spec right) or just going with a whole new assembly like the Curries or something? I know price isn't equal, but I'm not super worried about that.

Is that the Dinky RC bed on your rig? I'm tying to figure out what to do with mine, it's the bare cage at the moment and I need weight in the back.

Cheers!

...

I'd add a pic but I was too busy driving!

[bo_rc]

Originally Posted by ferp420

I would start with a new pinnion gear i dont remeber what size your rig came with but i would go 2 teeth smaller from what you have that should solve alot of your issues in one shot with out spending alot of money
The slop is extremely hard and exspensive to get rid of ive personaly tryed almost every locker outthere and havent found one that eliminates slop even the ones that say you have to tap the shafts in to the lockers and it wasent what i exspected they had just as much slop as all the other lockers there are some that use setscrews to hold the shafts in place but evryone ive ever herd of that usses them says they constantly back out and strip out

For The lower center of gravity i say get metal alloy axles there under $20 a pop and theres no flex like the plastic axles so the gears last longer and they slide better than aluminum and weigh more

The turning radius i say just live with it but any wraith transmission should be dig ready or you can buy the vanquish dig box that bolts on to the old style 3 gear scx10 trans the dig compicates things some you need another servo and it introduces more slop to the drivetrain
I have front dig on my 1:1 and to this day i have never used it lol so i wouldent do it to one of my RCs unless i was going to do some comps with it

Sweet, thanks for the knowledge. Seems like the consensus is that play is a pain to get rid of and near impossible anyway. Also that digs and 2-speeds might not be worth it. I drive on super tacky rocks a lot so maybe having a simpler drivetrain will be less of a headache in the long run.

That all being said... you ever seen this thing? GCM Webstore Canada International - SCX Trans Conversion Kit I saw it on SBG last night and was intrigued...

"metal alloy axles there under $20 a pop"
Any recommendations?

Thanks

[lonleycreeper]

Bed sides are off a old Hpi desert truck.

Weight out back....

Spare in the back.

The plastics tree had a spare tire mount and it bolts straight to the bare cage, not shown in this picture...



Trail Honcho, For Trailing

[Sneetches]

Originally Posted by bo_rc

Would you recommend adding on (knuckles, etc) to the AR44 axles (if I got that spec right) or just going with a whole new assembly like the Curries or something? I know price isn't equal, but I'm not super worried about that.

I would get SSD brass knuckles for the front.