So, just to be clear.........

[Frank211]

wheel weights wrapped around the wheel is bad. An all around bad thing, i mean the wheels ain't spinning that fast ?

If i have a drive train that is bulletproof(nothing is bulletproof) wouldn't that be ok for me to add the weights ?

[Stollenritter]

Originally Posted by Frank211

wheel weights wrapped around the wheel

For anything dynamic: this is considered rotational mass. Rotational mass takes more efford to accelerate and to decelerate. So you are limmiting your abillity to sprint/spurt and such maneuvers. Same for unintended manuevers / mishaps. High mass will keep its momentum and will put force on other parts (drivetrain, c-hubs) on a hard stop.
If you are going slow, these effects can be neglected (IMHO). 1:1 harvesters have water in their wheels to add weight...
Hope this helps.

[JatoTheRipper]

Back in the day weighting wheels was the standard thing to do. People tried everything - BBs, solder wire, lead weights used to balance car tires, etc. It was fine then and it's still fine now. People have kinda turned their noses up at it which I find very odd. There are more options these days - knuckle weights, portal weights, diff cover weights, etc., but for the most part weighting wheels is still fine, especially if you are a guy who likes slower and leisurely trail runs. If you are a guy that likes big power and wheel speed then I wouldn't run wheel weights. Otherwise it's completely fine.

[Robbob]

IMO there is no right or wrong - You do what works for you. If someone tells you its wrong and you want, try their way. If it works for you and you keep kicking their ass then kindly remind them who beats who.

Sometimes inner wheel weight effects your foam tuning and sometimes certain rules wont allow external weights due to their color.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Robbob

IMO there is no right or wrong - You do what works for you. If someone tells you its wrong and you want, try their way. If it works for you and you keep kicking their ass then kindly remind them who beats who.

Sometimes inner wheel weight effects your foam tuning and sometimes certain rules wont allow external weights due to their color.

Good point. The hassle of getting foams installed without having a bulge from the lead weights is one of the main reasons I stopping weighting my tires.

I now stick to knuckle and portal weights or Beef Tubes.

[MAC FAB]

Originally Posted by Stollenritter

For anything dynamic: this is considered rotational mass. Rotational mass takes more efford to accelerate and to decelerate. So you are limmiting your abillity to sprint/spurt and such maneuvers. Same for unintended manuevers / mishaps. High mass will keep its momentum and will put force on other parts (drivetrain, c-hubs) on a hard stop.
If you are going slow, these effects can be neglected (IMHO). 1:1 harvesters have water in their wheels to add weight...
Hope this helps.

^^^This^^^^^ If your entire program is bulletproof, the only negative is it robs power, somewhat like switching from 1.9s to 2.2s and not changing the gearing, perhaps not so pronounced. Case in point, ride a mountain bike with thorn proof tubes and a heavy tire. Swap that out for a light weight tire and tube or go tubeless, and you need less "legs" to move the bike, especially on a climb. Summary IMHO, pile on the weight and bring another battery pack. Crawl on.

[RedneckCowboy28]

I have weighted wheels on both mine and my son’s truck. Only breakage was on the kids truck and it was a plastic c-hub on a cold night run in the snow. I upgraded it with the heavy plastic ones that came with his truck but weren’t installed for some reason. I don’t feel the weight in the wheels caused the breakage it was more due to running the thin plastic C-hubs in 16* weather. IMHO


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[WHITE-TRASH]

Wheel weight can be beneficial in 1 very specific circumstance and that's popping a ledge. The rotating weight can pull the nose down and get the rig to pull itself over.

Outside of that all it does is wear the drivetrain out faster and sap power. These days capability is off the charts compared to 5 years ago so why go backwards?

[Inspector86]

Bottom line, do what works for YOU!

[kincer]

I run wheel weights and trim my foams but I'm cheap, works for me and have had no issues with any of my rigs doing this. That's what's nice about the hobby, there's more than one way to get where you wanna be, there's no wrong way, some ways are just better than others.

[Browneye]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Back in the day weighting wheels was the standard thing to do. People tried everything - BBs, solder wire, lead weights used to balance car tires, etc. It was fine then and it's still fine now. People have kinda turned their noses up at it which I find very odd. There are more options these days - knuckle weights, portal weights, diff cover weights, etc., but for the most part weighting wheels is still fine, especially if you are a guy who likes slower and leisurely trail runs. If you are a guy that likes big power and wheel speed then I wouldn't run wheel weights. Otherwise it's completely fine.

This. They still work fine, especially hub weights that sandwich in between the hubs. I wouldn't install weights inside the tire.



SSD makes really nice hub weights for their wheels and work really well. Some of the 'chanquish' wheels have them too, brass, and they work really well too.



For a crawler it's a non-issue. If you're bashing with brushless and getting some wheelspeed then all bets are off. But for crawling and comp they work great.



There's a contingent out there that will tell you brushless is the only way to go as well. And 500oz/in servos. And XL tires. And on and on and on. Others are brand fan-boyz, truggies only, hardbodies only, etc.



Run whatcha brung.

[Voodoobrew]

if you put them in the tire I would put a few wraps of electrical tape on them.

[OSRC]

Several of my rigs still run weighted wheels. Not tons of weight though, just enough to give the wheels some heft. Especially rigs where there are no options for beef tubes or knuckle weights, like my CMX/CFX and CC01's. I drive slow and scale, and it's been a non issue for years.

[Frank211]

Do they make brass SCX10 knuckles, or are they just made for the scx10-2 ?

I didn't want to add the wheel weight,just don't know if they make scx10 brass knuckles.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by Frank211

Do they make brass SCX10 knuckles, or are they just made for the scx10-2 ?

I didn't want to add the wheel weight,just don't know if they make scx10 brass knuckles.

several places used to, such as the scale shop and vanquish, but I'm not able to find any in stock anymore.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Frank211

Do they make brass SCX10 knuckles, or are they just made for the scx10-2 ?

I didn't want to add the wheel weight,just don't know if they make scx10 brass knuckles.

Boom Racing, Beef Tubes and Hot Racing still offer axle tubes.

https://www.boomracingrc.com/kronik-...scx10-2-113383

http://www.lockeduprc.com/Beef-Tube-...ass_p_728.html

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...BoCTTEQAvD_BwE

EDIT: Looks like DLux still offers knuckles, but they're nearly $100!

https://dluxfab.ecwid.com/#!/Knuckles-Dlux/p/83364230

[Voodoobrew]

In order to keep the flex in my crawling looking realistic as well as keeping torque twist down, I run 2 sometimes 3 full wraps of weights in the front tires so they can way around 450 grams. the rear tires I put at about 300 grams in total or one wrap. Many people would consider this absurdly heavy but it works for me. Mostly it just makes the car heavy so that when if falls off a higher obstacle on its roof it makes you cringe. But even my 3d printed hot rod with stands this a few times. The thing is with beadlock wheels you can change them up fairly easily and it's kinda inexpensive if you find a good deal on weights. I bought a whole roll of weights a while back for $40 and its lasting through several rigs. Its much less expensive than brass parts, and easy to tune. Still using the plastic wild boar drive shafts on all my rigs with mostly plastic 48p spurs. I rarely drive faster that walking speed, but my drive train never breaks or strips. I don't know if this is SORCA approved or not, but from what I hear most events don't care what you run all that much, its more important that you show up and have fun I think.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

EDIT: Looks like DLux still offers knuckles, but they're nearly $100!

https://dluxfab.ecwid.com/#!/Knuckles-Dlux/p/83364230

$74 is not $100

I know of a set of scx specific dlux knuckles available cheap. A buddy bought them thinking they were for an ar60 but no such luck.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

$74 is not $100



I know of a set of scx specific dlux knuckles available cheap. A buddy bought them thinking they were for an ar60 but no such luck.

The brass version for the AX10 shows $87 on my screen. That's close enough to $100 for me. With shipping you'll be right there.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Meh, nobody else makes a SORCCA legal hub with that 4.5 oz per corner so ya gotta pay to play.

If you do it intelligently and do the xr mod it's only $82 and you get away from the garbage shafts and gain steering angle.