Clocking "C" hubs

[stevoservo]

I have a Bully 2 crawler from a kit that I built. I'm wondering about how to "clock" the hubs to obtain better ground clearance to my motors. Everything on the truck is stock except for the electronics that don't come with the kit. Any information and [or] photos would be greatly appreciated.

[HumboldtEF]

I'm not sure clocking the hubs will do anything to add more clearance for your motors. It can improve your steering to add some caster. Maybe you meant adjusting the links to rotate the axle a bit?

If not the best I can do is suggest you come up with a motor guard.

This post in pretty ancient and you may need to be using a Photobucket extension to get the pictures to show up

MOA Carbon Fiber Motor guards!!!!!

And Holmes still has something available https://holmeshobbies.com/motors/par...tor-sav-r.html

[stevoservo]

Thank you, humboltEF. Clearly I need to learn a lot more about this and other aspects of this comp crawler. Any further direction you can point me to regarding the axle orientation and suspension is greatly appreciated! I've been running trail trucks for a few years but this is like a whole different deck of cards, but I like it! Thank you. again,

[HumboldtEF]

Well I'll say that I'm a bit of a comp crawler noob as well so I dont have much advice to offer.

Whats your main goal here? were you just concerned about dragging the motor?

[stevoservo]

As for the motor dragging, I can install guards. I wasn't sure if their was much to be gained by changing the pinion angle for handling. It seems pretty tight and nimble the way it is.

[HumboldtEF]

Yeah I'd probably side with just letting the motor drag some if it meant that I could have good caster up front. Changing the pinion angle for the sake of the motor will only reduce the amount of castor you can dial in.

I like to clock the c-hubs as much as I can so long as they dont make the tires rub on the links. More castor makes for better turning and it can help add a bit more grip when cresting over a ledge while turning.

[stevoservo]

I still don't know what clocking the "C" hubs is. Where do I look to see if that will help on this rig?

[durok]

I don't have a MOA crawler, but I do have a solid front axle Bomber with the servo mounted on top of the differential.

The internally splined C-hub slides onto the externally splined axle end, right?

"Clocking" is removing the C-hub from the axle end, rotating it a spline or two, and slipping it back on and bolting everything back together.

There's the stock recommended location, and deviating from it will affect the steering geometry.

It's not necessarily "bad" to change the location from stock, as a matter of fact my Bomber isn't clocked stock at the moment, and it crawls great at slow speeds.

Depending on the Ackerman of your steering knuckles, it can affect caster, camber, toe-in, toe-out, and tire contact patch - if I recall correctly!

I'll admit to it being a little bit of a mystery how every little bit affects the vehicle, best thing is to make small adjustments and just test it out.

Some changes work great at low speeds, but make the vehicle less controllable at higher speeds... etc.

[CM9000]

There is a section for your Bully kit crawler right here on this forum. The more caster, the less contact patch you will get at full lock left or right.

[HumboldtEF]

Durok explained it pretty well, I'd just add that the direction to clock the chubs is rotating the top towards the rear and the bottom towards the front. Chubs are either oriented straight up and down (typically stock) or with them angled back (how I described above) but are almost never clocked to angle them forward.

Here's a ton of search results on clocking chubs if you want to rummage through https://www.google.com/search?q=cloc...h=723&dpr=1.25

[CM9000]

Changing caster does not change ackerman or toe if your link stays the same.

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[stevoservo]

Thanks again.This site has been a great help and your info has helped so much. duroc's explanation with yours will help. I really want to make the best of this rig.

[stevoservo]

Do not know what ackerman is.

[CM9000]

Ackerman deals with the difference in angles of the tires turning. 0 ackerman has the wheels turning at the same angle from center to full lock. The only stock rig with 0 ackerman from my knowledge is the losi comp crawler and night crawler platforms.

There are different knuckle arms to get proper ackerman and zero ackerman.

Proper ackerman has the wheels straight (no toe out or in) and increases the inner tire angle going to full lock left or right. Its really hard to explain without pictures. Search ackerman in the forum search bar.



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[stevoservo]

Are the tires square to the ground or running surface, with zero Ackerman?

[CM9000]

Originally Posted by stevoservo

Are the tires square to the ground or running surface, with zero Ackerman?

If you have 0 caster, yes.

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