03-27-2020, 06:57 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Catasauqua
Posts: 25
| Glue preference
Hello everyone, I just joined this website and it is pretty awesome. I’m currently getting ready to build a Cross RC MC6. The cab on this vehicle takes an extensive amount of assembly. What do you guys prefer as the type of glue to use to assemble this part of the kit? Brand suggestions, viscosity, type, etc? Thank you Tima |
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03-27-2020, 07:25 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,475
| Re: Glue preference
Welcome to RCC! I would recommend Bondene or plastic weld. They are actually solvents that melt the plastic and fuse it. which one you get doesnt matter much as they all melt plastic just fine. https://www.amainhobbies.com/plastru...s00002/p424867 https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/pls00003s.htm You might also need some E6000 (or shoe goo) or super glue for the other materials like windows or metal. the solvents only work on plastics so if anything else needs glueing you need to choose something else. |
03-27-2020, 07:44 PM | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Catasauqua
Posts: 25
| Re: Glue preference
Thank you for your reply and the welcome to RCC! Glad to be here
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03-27-2020, 08:33 PM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,475
| Re: Glue preference
The manual for the Cross RC I built was pretty good and noted whether to use ABS Cement (the solvent type) or glue (meaning actual glue) on each part of the body.
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03-28-2020, 07:02 AM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: Woodstock
Posts: 257
| Re: Glue preference
Chrome parts you want to clean the chrome off, under it you will see copper. You want to keep working until you get down to the plastic. Plastruct makes 2 types of the ABS cement, you want the red label "Styrene & ABS Plastic Solvent cement" The plain or original ABS cemennt is specific to their gray ABS construction shapes. Some things to know using it. I suggest you use some scrap spouses to get a feel of how it works. Apply some to both parts, when assembling, once joined, on the backside unseen, apply again. First application softens a bit, it evaporates quickly Second application once joined will migrate into the joint Allow it to cure over night for a good bond Using a fender as the example here: If a part does not line up, perfect fit. You can start at one end clue up the matching seems. Next day close the gap, glue and clamp the first end will hold fine Windows/ Headlight lens........... Hands down RC cockpit/canopy glue is the best practice. If it squeezes out from around the seems, like a mirror or head lens, let it cure and remove excess then, pulls right off. This e6000 is goopy, messy and takes forever to dry and still soft flex able when cured. I've found lacks holding power, maybe good for shoes. Congrads on the CROSS kit they are truly a nice scale kit, parts fit very well. Do not get in a hurry the body actually takes the most time to build. However that time invested produces some spectacular results. Enjoy ! pep |
03-28-2020, 07:30 AM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Catasauqua
Posts: 25
| Re: Glue preference
Thank you guys for the helpful information. Looks like I’ll be using at least two types. A solvent type as well as a more typical model glue. Getting started real soon. Tima |
03-29-2020, 07:57 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: Woodstock
Posts: 257
| Re: Glue preference
"typical model glue" I tried that nothing wrong with it just keeping it under control being the hurtle. |
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