Newbie wants to know What’s Good!!!!!

[kurpis]

For newbies like me, the process of learning all the different rigs, sizes, parts, tools, features, etc is kind of overwhelming. I’ve read posts, posted myself and talked with many of you. I must say that I’m very impressed w/ your RC opinions & I can’t believe that so many of you would take the time to help me.

My humble request is for all of you to let me (and other newbies) know your current opinion on what’s generally good in the world of RC Crawling.

It could be a brand, a youtube channel, a material, a technique, an unwritten rule, an article, etc. If you think it’s good for me to know, don’t hold back. Information, pics, opinions and more would all be incredible. Even if someone else has posted about it, still give your take.

I really think these replies will be valued more than you realize.

Thanks!!!

[2mtech]

Ok, start with these (in order):

Holmes Hobbies and RPP Hobby

Harley Designs and Scale Builder's Guild

Lexan

Learn to solder and braze well

Balance and storage charge Lipo batteries always

No articles.

Should be a good start!

[Dezertdirt]

in order:

AMAIN hobby and RPP hobby, if you can't support your local hobby shop. Dlux fab if your are interested in comp or extreme durability

Scale builders Guild, RC review, Harley Designs, HemiStorm rc

Lexan body, carbon fiber for sevo mounts and chassis, stainless steel or aluminum or titanium for links, if you're really crafty then abs sheets for hardbodies

Get good a painting, get good at soldering, get used to using a dremel tool

Quality of tools matter (I run hudy allen wrenches, others will suggest mip. But, don't get harbor freight they don't last long in this hobby, I tried them on my first build and the bit the dust half way though assembly.), Axial's plastic links suck, rtr electronics don't last long, be careful with lipos (1. Don't run them too low, 2. Don't let them get too inflated, or they can explode and catch fire.)

no articles

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by 2mtech

Ok, start with these (in order):

Holmes Hobbies and RPP Hobby

Harley Designs and Scale Builder's Guild

Lexan

Learn to solder and braze well

Balance and storage charge Lipo batteries always

No articles.

Should be a good start!

HOLY SHIT! Awesome reply. I've didn't know any of those things and now they are on my radar. Thanks man!!!!

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Dezertdirt

in order:

AMAIN hobby and RPP hobby, if you can't support your local hobby shop. Dlux fab if your are interested in comp or extreme durability

Scale builders Guild, RC review, Harley Designs, HemiStorm rc

Lexan body, carbon fiber for sevo mounts and chassis, stainless steel or aluminum or titanium for links, if you're really crafty then abs sheets for hardbodies

Get good a painting, get good at soldering, get used to using a dremel tool

Quality of tools matter (I run hudy allen wrenches, others will suggest mip. But, don't get harbor freight they don't last long in this hobby, I tried them on my first build and the bit the dust half way though assembly.), Axial's plastic links suck, rtr electronics don't last long, be careful with lipos (1. Don't run them too low, 2. Don't let them get too inflated, or they can explode and catch fire.)

no articles

Wow! Really good stuff. Whats extreme durability all about?

[Dezertdirt]

Originally Posted by kurpis

Wow! Really good stuff. Whats extreme durability all about?

Simple answer to that question is certain offshoots of our require parts that are truly bombproof, for example ultra4rc (aka rock racing or u4) or rock bouncing or comp crawlers. Other people run dlux in normal crawlers so that they will never brake certain parts (axleshafts, links, shocks,...). u4 rigs run really high power brushless and have a bad habit of breaking axle shafts and axle housings. comp crawlers tend to break stuff when they fall, alot of great lines happen to be on the sides of cliffs.


Another really good company that makes great parts is supershafty.

[Benp]

Originally Posted by Dezertdirt

in order:

AMAIN hobby and RPP hobby, if you can't support your local hobby shop. Dlux fab if your are interested in comp or extreme durability

Scale builders Guild, RC review, Harley Designs, HemiStorm rc

Lexan body, carbon fiber for sevo mounts and chassis, stainless steel or aluminum or titanium for links, if you're really crafty then abs sheets for hardbodies

Get good a painting, get good at soldering, get used to using a dremel tool

Quality of tools matter (I run hudy allen wrenches, others will suggest mip. But, don't get harbor freight they don't last long in this hobby, I tried them on my first build and the bit the dust half way though assembly.), Axial's plastic links suck, rtr electronics don't last long, be careful with lipos (1. Don't run them too low, 2. Don't let them get too inflated, or they can explode and catch fire.)

no articles

I 110% agree. Buy once, cry once. Especially when dealing with small parts.

Lots of great Youtube videos in regards to RC Tools reviews.

I am brand new to RC Crawling and went with Vanquish hex drivers, Protek Tru Torq SL Nutdrivers , and MIP 1/4' power hex drivers. Cheap...no, but they will be my only sets.

Speaking of youtube channels, Holmes Hobbies is fantastic. I learned a lot regarding the motor / esc minutia for crawlers.

[Timmahh]

The more you get into rc, you more you'll find it mimic the real world.

The line you hear at ANY Race Track that is quite apropos is "How Fast do you want to Spend?" lol

If the price is cheap, the product is probably cheap.

Don't confuse Cheap with Inexpensive. Most Crap is Cheap, but some things are just Inexpensive.

Like the real world, a little research is good for the melon, the wallet so you don't have to buy 2 or 3 times, and the quality of what is GOOD while being inexpensive and what is just Cheap will become readily self-apparent.


For Instance. in 2008, Red Cat was just Cheap. Today, they are far more in the Inexpensive category as their quality and products have improved much in the last decade imho.

[Inspector86]

Don't waste your time on Fakebook! I have seen more mis-information and just flat out intentional wrong info on the various crawler groups.

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Dezertdirt

Simple answer to that question is certain offshoots of our require parts that are truly bombproof, for example ultra4rc (aka rock racing or u4) or rock bouncing or comp crawlers. Other people run dlux in normal crawlers so that they will never brake certain parts (axleshafts, links, shocks,...). u4 rigs run really high power brushless and have a bad habit of breaking axle shafts and axle housings. comp crawlers tend to break stuff when they fall, alot of great lines happen to be on the sides of cliffs.


Another really good company that makes great parts is supershafty.

Thanks man!

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Benp

I 110% agree. Buy once, cry once. Especially when dealing with small parts.

Lots of great Youtube videos in regards to RC Tools reviews.

I am brand new to RC Crawling and went with Vanquish hex drivers, Protek Tru Torq SL Nutdrivers , and MIP 1/4' power hex drivers. Cheap...no, but they will be my only sets.

Speaking of youtube channels, Holmes Hobbies is fantastic. I learned a lot regarding the motor / esc minutia for crawlers.

How did you know what high brands to go with as a newbie?

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Timmahh

The more you get into rc, you more you'll find it mimic the real world.

The line you hear at ANY Race Track that is quite apropos is "How Fast do you want to Spend?" lol

If the price is cheap, the product is probably cheap.

Don't confuse Cheap with Inexpensive. Most Crap is Cheap, but some things are just Inexpensive.

Like the real world, a little research is good for the melon, the wallet so you don't have to buy 2 or 3 times, and the quality of what is GOOD while being inexpensive and what is just Cheap will become readily self-apparent.


For Instance. in 2008, Red Cat was just Cheap. Today, they are far more in the Inexpensive category as their quality and products have improved much in the last decade imho.

Can you name some other good inexpensive RC brands that I can rely on?

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Don't waste your time on Fakebook! I have seen more mis-information and just flat out intentional wrong info on the various crawler groups.

No problem with that. I've NEVER been on Facebook nor have I ever had an account. What else do I need to avoid or lookout for?

[Alec4now]

Just bye the best you can afford it's going to break at some point. RTR 90% of manufacturers put the cheapest electronics they can get away with also a lot of stuff is made in China anyway some good some real bad. Bye a kit and build it when it goes wrong you have more knowledge of what to do. YouTube don't forget RCSparks. And Kevin Talbot he tells it like it is good or bad and is slightly mad. In closing work out your budget and double it.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

[Timmahh]

Originally Posted by Alec4now

Just bye the best you can afford it's going to break at some point. RTR 90% of manufacturers put the cheapest electronics they can get away with also a lot of stuff is made in China anyway some good some real bad. Bye a kit and build it when it goes wrong you have more knowledge of what to do. YouTube don't forget RCSparks. And Kevin Talbot he tells it like it is good or bad and is slightly mad. In closing work out your budget and double it.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

This is good info. Anything can be made better. But starting with a decent platform is a smart choice.
If you have 300.00 there are a few rtr rigs that will do ok out of the gate. The Redcat Gen 7s have gotten better since they were released. the Gen 8 unit is better yet from what I can tell.
The Axial Kits/RTRs are pretty good starting rigs, but you'll need around 400 to get going after at ew batteries and a spare set of rims/tires. or at least tires and foams.

Find something that is close to the pricepoint you have to work with, remember you will need some batteries and a compatible charger.

Maybe find a good condition used rig to save some funds, and that can go towards a good charger and a few 2s/3s lipo battery packs.


As far as ranks Axial and Redcat are the two I am most familiar with at this point. Ive been out of the crawler scene for a bit more than 8 years.
Redcat was only dong 1/5 scale gassers at that time. But the Axial SCX10 kit was pretty new, and Hot, and pretty capable even as an rtr.

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Alec4now

Just bye the best you can afford it's going to break at some point. RTR 90% of manufacturers put the cheapest electronics they can get away with also a lot of stuff is made in China anyway some good some real bad. Bye a kit and build it when it goes wrong you have more knowledge of what to do. YouTube don't forget RCSparks. And Kevin Talbot he tells it like it is good or bad and is slightly mad. In closing work out your budget and double it.

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

"Work out a budget and double it". The story of my life. Haha

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by Timmahh

This is good info. Anything can be made better. But starting with a decent platform is a smart choice.
If you have 300.00 there are a few rtr rigs that will do ok out of the gate. The Redcat Gen 7s have gotten better since they were released. the Gen 8 unit is better yet from what I can tell.
The Axial Kits/RTRs are pretty good starting rigs, but you'll need around 400 to get going after at ew batteries and a spare set of rims/tires. or at least tires and foams.

Find something that is close to the pricepoint you have to work with, remember you will need some batteries and a compatible charger.

Maybe find a good condition used rig to save some funds, and that can go towards a good charger and a few 2s/3s lipo battery packs.


As far as ranks Axial and Redcat are the two I am most familiar with at this point. Ive been out of the crawler scene for a bit more than 8 years.
Redcat was only dong 1/5 scale gassers at that time. But the Axial SCX10 kit was pretty new, and Hot, and pretty capable even as an rtr.

What makes a charger good? What specific features are absolutely necessary or highly desired?

[HumboldtEF]

MIP for tools (hex wrenches and nut drivers), nothing worse than stripping things due to bad tools which usually have a much looser fit.

I think Hitec makes good chargers. You'll need it to balance and storage charge lipo's, pretty much all should. Some extras bonuses might include to be able to charge some other battery types like Li-FE, LiIon and LIHV batteries, some radios use small Li-FE batteries and LIHV is a newer style of Lipo that uses slightly higher voltage per cell. Another bonus might be having a DC input so it can be used with a car battery when you're out in the wilderness. Consider if you want to charge more than one battery at a time too, thats another bonus.
The Hitec RDX1 seems like a nice starter charger, I like mine. I also have their X2 charger which I primarily use.

I might have left something out.

[FloridaST]

I've recently got back into RC and just built an Associated B74 to go off road carpet racing at a nice track about 50 miles away in Cocoa Beach, FL. Anyway, I don't want to run the thing outside so now I'm getting into trail trucks. There's a small but vibrant crawler scene in my town (Daytona Beach) that I might get involved with.

Anyway, get quality equipment, buy used if you have to but don't cheap out. Price is usually a good indicator of quality in this hobby in my opinion. Get a good soldering station like a Hakko, good tools like MIP, these are things you will use often and you don't want to struggle when trying to do something.

[kurpis]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

MIP for tools (hex wrenches and nut drivers), nothing worse than stripping things due to bad tools which usually have a much looser fit.

I think Hitec makes good chargers. You'll need it to balance and storage charge lipo's, pretty much all should. Some extras bonuses might include to be able to charge some other battery types like Li-FE, LiIon and LIHV batteries, some radios use small Li-FE batteries and LIHV is a newer style of Lipo that uses slightly higher voltage per cell. Another bonus might be having a DC input so it can be used with a car battery when you're out in the wilderness. Consider if you want to charge more than one battery at a time too, thats another bonus.
The Hitec RDX1 seems like a nice starter charger, I like mine. I also have their X2 charger which I primarily use.

I might have left something out.

GREAT INFO!!!! Thank you so much. Exactly the type of answer a newbie like me needs to learn.