Duratrax Tires

[TwiztidDevil]

Hi guys I am curious to get everyone's input on Duratrax tires. I have a set of 2.2 Deep Woods CR tires on my wraith, they look good and are definitely soft enough they should grip well. However my VS4-10 Ultra with 1.9 Interco Super Swampers XL tires will out preform my wraith every time. The wraith has bigger tires and more suspension flex than the VS4-10 does. That by rights means it should be able to do better than the VS4-10. I drive both of them on trails that are pretty tough with mud, logs, creeks, and plenty of rock and the VS4-10 does it so much easier. Is this because my wraith is pretty much stock and the VS4-10 has all the better parts, or is it because my Duratrax tires are junk?

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[Dezertdirt]

There are multiple reasons for the lack of performance out of the wraith.
1. If it started as an rtr, the plastic links are terrible. You should get some metal links (stainless steel or aluminum or titainium)
2. The battery is in the back. (Move the battery to the front)
3. The vs410 has overdrive, the wraith doesn't have od but you can get od or ud gears from incision or axial (this makes an enormous difference)
4. The motor is further forward on the vs410

[lonleycreeper]

Vs410 vs a Axial Wraith...

The Vs410 is a premium rig well balanced by a company that likes performance.

The Axial Wraith is a old design that works good with some mods and can be built into a very Capable rig, but box stock is not so capable.

Weight distribution and tires have the biggest impact on performance.

My experience with Duratrax Deepwoods and Proline Tsl's are they perform very similarly in most conditions. So I would put truck setup at the largest impact in your perfomance differences.

Your link geometry may be very different between the two rigs.

The Wraith Skidplate is massive compared to the Vs410

As mentioned, Overdrive has a big impact on climbing and turning...

I find, that less travel to a certain point often performs better than more.

Weight distribution.. Check it by weighing each end, and using a calculator to get your center of gravity on each rig, you might be suprised...

Deepwoods on the black Bronco... Tsl's on the blue Bronco

[TwiztidDevil]

My wraith has aluminum links already and an aluminum skid plate already. It was definitely a RTR model as I've already shelled the stock transmission and bought the vanquish aluminum housing, incision steel gears, incision shafts, incision slipper eliminator, and vanquish motor plate and spur gear cover. I ordered a 56 T steel spur gear and a 10T pinion gear to go with it. I'm running a 1800KV 550 size motor on 2s lipos.

My VS4-10 is all stock as well with aluminum motor plate, aluminum stand offs, and aluminum shock towers. It does have swamper tsl xl tires and I'm running a 3500kv 540 size motor on 2s lipos.

The VS4-10 will out perform the wraith every time.

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[TwiztidDevil]

Also my wraith has the battery moved forward and a steel chassis.

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[Dezertdirt]

Thanks for the info. Your problem is that the cg is too high. Get some shorter shocks or lighter springs to make it sit lower. Also try to more weight down low like beef tubes or brass knuckles or knuckle weights or wheel weights. Also you should get some aluminum chubs, the plastic ones break fairly easily. Also I would add universal to your front axle, better steering angles and smoother, if you don't already have them. Also, like I said earlier the vs410 has overdrive which makes an real difference on vertical ascents.

beeftubes
https://www.amainhobbies.com/beef-tu...bt004b/p578526

wheel weights
some used bbs or car wheel weights, however this can hurt bearings over time

brass knuckles
https://dluxfab.com/#!/Knuckles-Dlux...tegory=6232191

univerals
https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-a...i30780/p216207

aluminum chubs there are others that are cheaper, just an example
https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquis...s02014/p706472

overdrive for the front and/or underdrive for the rear

https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-h...xi30401/p34194

https://www.amainhobbies.com/incisio...c00284/p754885

[ferp420]

another big issue is.that aluminum rock hook you call a skid.plate get the plastic skid it will slide on the rocks the aluminum just grabs the rocks and holds on
cut the skid mounting points on the cage down tummy tuck it and lower it down as low as you can get it
you also should add some waight to the axles as much as posable it will help keep the rig on its wheels i used steel axles with beef tubes up front but brass knuckles should do the trick

something else to remeber there vary different rigs they both do better on different terrain it could be the terrain your running is better suited to the trx4

[themountain]

Originally Posted by TwiztidDevil

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Its your setup, not the tires

anywhoo...what foams are in there??

[ferp420]

and get rid of those links they too are rock hooks and ditch that spare tire

[TwiztidDevil]

Ok spare tire gone, moved my shocks to the back/front holes which lowered the truck a lot. Also I am not sure what foams are in the tires. I bought it off ebay as you see it. I've only added parts when I break them, which has only been the servo mount and the transmission both have been replaced with vanquish upgrades.

I did buy a cheap no brand 2600kv brushless with esc and took out the red redcat 550 that was in it. I've replaced the stock spur gear with a 56T steel gear and a 10T pinion gear. Now it seems to stutter at low-speed as if it doesn't have enough power but runs great at full throttle...... I am using a 2S 50C 5000MaH battery.

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[Dezertdirt]

The stutter at low speed is normal if the motor isn't sensored, all brushless motors a have some dead band before motion. If it is sensored then something is either wired wrong or something is fried in the motor or esc. If you want the wraith to crawl the go to a brushed motor or a sensored brushless. You might be able to get it to stop stuttering if you gear it really low maybe a 9t pinion and 65t spur or higher.

[TwiztidDevil]

Originally Posted by Dezertdirt

The stutter at low speed is normal if the motor isn't sensored, all brushless motors a have some dead band before motion. If it is sensored then something is either wired wrong or something is fried in the motor or esc. If you want the wraith to crawl the go to a brushed motor or a sensored brushless. You might be able to get it to stop stuttering if you gear it really low maybe a 9t pinion and 65t spur or higher.

Ok cool, thank you for the help. The motor is a sensor less motor and a cheap one at that. The motor that was in it was a redcat 550 brushed motor, but whenever it got into a tight spot and needed torgue it would just shutdown. It also seems to use my battery a lot quicker. Is this normal of brushed motors?

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[lonleycreeper]

What you are fighting,is lots of weight and lack of gearing. Combined with a improper motor and or esc.

I run 12/86 (48p gears)gearing in my rig with 2.2's with a 7.1:1 gear ratio...

You are running a 10/56 gearing which is 5.6:1 gear ratio.

Brushed you should have lower gearing, you can get away with taller gearing with a brushless setup, but to have any chance at crawling/ not bashing over obstacles it needs to be sensored. A Mamba X and Holmes Hobbies Pro puller in the 3000 kv flavor would be a good match... but expensive $250 or so combo

Gearing will be much cheaper needing a $4 and spur, a $6 spur and a older style slipper plate.

Also a Holmes Hobbies trailmaster 550 brushed motor in the 27t to 21t flavor, only $20

[TwiztidDevil]

I recently replaced the transmission in my wraith due to stripping the nylon gears. Its all vanquish and incision from the case to the shafts with fast Eddie bearings now. I also installed a slipper eliminator from incision on it. I know it'll be harder on parts but it transfers all power so I figured it would be a better idea than the slipper clutches. Am I wrong here?

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[lonleycreeper]

Originally Posted by TwiztidDevil

I recently replaced the transmission in my wraith due to stripping the nylon gears. Its all vanquish and incision from the case to the shafts with fast Eddie bearings now. I also installed a slipper eliminator from incision on it. I know it'll be harder on parts but it transfers all power so I figured it would be a better idea than the slipper clutches. Am I wrong here?

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The slipper eliminator works just fine, I would drop the gearing as low as you can physically fit...