Hooking up lightbars/LEDs

[JCM6172]

Hi gents,

Hope this isn't too silly of a question but I couldn't find much of an answer on google - wanted to ask what kind of lighting setup can be done with this ESC? Identifies itself as a Hobao HB-2.4R FHSS 3-channel digital receiver and has 3 unused pins labeled "Signal/LED".

I'm hoping to connect basic front, rear and roof lights.
Perhaps some undercarriage lights in future.
The F/R lights share a 3-pin connector while the roofbar has a 2-pin.
Here are pictures of the ESC and lights: https://imgur.com/a/fkNvRfy

What hardware/setup/wiring/controller do I need to be able to power and control these?
They can all be turned on/off at the same time, I don't need individual controls.

Cheers,
Nick

[ferp420]

if you want to turn them on and off your gona need a relay or basicly a light switch you can control with the radio if you have the extra channels
you can just run them on all the time or wire in a manual switch

your gona want a servo y adaptor the 2 pin will plug in to the 3 pin slot just make sure the red wire is on the middle pin other wise you let out the magic smoke

ether way you are gona run in to power issues your probably fine with just the f/r lights but the light bar too might be to much for that esc you might need a external bec or battery eliminator circite

the switch and the bec are cheap they just take a while to get here there is some wiring that gona needs to be done if your not comfertable doing that your self theres a guy on here his screen name is hayok that makes custom electrical parts at a reasonable price ill bet he could fix you up a bec powered switch thats plug and play hes kinda the go to guy around here for that kinda stuff

heres a link on ebay for referance
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Types-RC-R...-127632-2357-0
this listing is kinda exspensive for chinese made light controler but will give you a better understanding of whats out there and of course hayok can make any version of these adaptors if you want product suport or something custom

[Inspector86]

If you just want the ability to turn lights on/off you will need to have a radio with free channels you can use to control the lights. If you want brake lights, turn signals, etc, you will need to run some sort of a light controller. I have had the best luck with https://mytrickrc.com light controllers. You can build custom lighting systems or buy one of their kits depending on what you need.

[RJW]

I use a light kit in all my crawlers like this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40322298187...8AAOSwtk5hY6w4

The advantage is it only uses channel 1 (steering) and 2 (throttle) on your receiver and provides the Y connectors leaving channel 3 open for additional switched lights if preferred like a light bar etc. It also provides turn signals if wanted or you can just use the lights you want in the kit. You need to make sure the light kit you purchase only uses channel 1 & 2, some also use channel 3. Keep in mind that most receivers put out 6 volts, so any additional lights on each channel must be below that voltage limiting how many can be on one channel. The light kits work great and have been in use several years on my trail trucks.

[NoBrand]

I’m currently hooking up a “killerbody” 18 led light controller. I had to get the 18 led one as my c24 has 6 roof lights. It works ok, but needs some wiring work (too long, ot long enough, etc).

It works ok, but the lights are either on or off. No way to switch them from the remote. The other thing I don’t like is the reverse lights are always on, just half brightness. I guess the last thing that bugs me about it is that if the trucks sits for any period of time without moving, all the lights flash. I wish you could turn that one off, very annoying when it happens. Flick the steering or turn the truck off does away with the flashing.

I may add a few remote switches so I can turn off the headlights and roof lights when I don’t need them.

[JCM6172]

Hello gentlemen, thanks for the replies. It's been awhile and I've come across this kit which seems more versatile compared to hooking up individual lights or messing with Y/splitter cables.

https://shopee.sg/12-LED-Flashing-Br...02.13506720342

Crucially, the listing states current usage is 100mA.
I've scoured my manuals and the internet but can find no mention of how much current this receiver (HB-2.4R) can safely supply.

Does anyone know, or is 100mA is "negligible/generally safe" current?

[ferp420]

Originally Posted by JCM6172

Does anyone know, or is 100mA is "negligible/generally safe" current?

it all depends on your set up and how much draw is already on the system

most escs put out between 2-3 amps some put out more but there on the exspensive side

a 100ma draw is a very minor draw on the system you should be ok
but some of those light bars draw lots of juice and could cause brownouts

i had a hobbywing 1060 esc and worked fine with the 25kg cheepo servo worked fine for years i added 4 leds and it browned out cause the servo used almost every drop of power the esc could put out

if you turn the wheels and the truck dies you have too many lights

[nightcrawler48]

The unit you are looking at has the lights all on or flashing all the time so it is not a true light controller in the sense of headlights and taillights on all the time, brake lights when no throttle, backup lights for reverse and turn signals for right and left turns.

I don't know how they rate it at 100mA as I would think the control unit and the LEDs exceed the 100mA.

100mA isn't a lot. The common 5mm LEDs used in RCs are 20mA each. In the scheme of things not a huge current draw compared to motors and servos but it should be capable of only powering five (5) LEDs.?.?.?.?

As far as what the receiver can handle, generally speaking, 100mA should not be an issue.

As ferp says, light bars can be much higher draw than 100mA.

[JCM6172]

Hi gents,

I pulled the trigger on the kit in post #6 and also have a separate roof rack + lightbar set in the post although I have currently no idea how to wire that up.

Since I'm currently running a 2S 5200 it would not have enough volts to power a lightbar not to mention the concerns of overloading the receiver, so watt I'm thinking is to buy a second battery - probably a small 4 or 500mAh 3S - which will provide enough voltage for just the lightbar, then strap it onto the chassis with its own on/off switch since weight and heft aren't of much concern in a crawler. However, having searched the googles, I have failed to turn up any guides on how to power/wire RC lights directly to a battery. Every single guide is basically some form of "plug it into your receiver/ESC". There are mentions of BECs but all with regards to connecting them back to your main ESC which is not that I want. That, or they are using fancy 5 channel receivers etc.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a guide or even a simple chart/wiring diagram on how a lightbar can be directly and safely powered by its own LiPo/NiMh AAs please?
Am handy with a solder iron, just need to know what parts to buy and how to put em together.

[ferp420]

your light bar should have a jst plug and your small battery should also have a jst plug the switch goes on the ground side or on the black wire
thats it vary simple

your leds should run off of 7.4 v also even is there rated for 12v they wont be as bright but the lower voltage wont hert the leds its worth testing but it still might draw more power than your system can put out
dont worrie about the plugs to much your only dealing with power and ground and a jst plug will plug in to your reciver just make sure the red wire is in the middle if thats the way you want to go
the battery would be easyest though and they make some pretty cool.switches these days too

[JCM6172]

Hi Ferp thanks for the quick comeback. Okay so I'll probably be getting another Zee battery but 3S this time, they come with a Deans plug. Do I just connect this and an inline switch directly to the red/black wires from the lightbar? No UBEC, fuses or anything in between?

[ferp420]

if your light bar is rated for 12v then ya its a direct conection the switch is just extra at that point

i would recemend a battery with a jst plug already just to make it easyer but making a adaptor should be a peice of pie