| | #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| Hey guys, first post here, total newbie to RC Rock Crawling. have found what i believe could be a good starting point, just a bit of details about it. has 2 Tamiya Clod diffs, 4x4 4 wheel steering, the chassis is alloy, has push rods..what are these? lol, and the diffs. here is a pic so you get the idea of what im looking at.. http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoser...32136_full.jpg same guy also has this one for sale, http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoser...02940_full.jpg with these details; This truck can go any were front and back diffs are locked it has front and back steering Steering is inderpendent back steering is worked off its own switch better than tandem steer Body is rough from all the rocks its been climbing Good tractor grip tyres have been cut and glued front and back mounts have been glued and strengthend Front springs with oil and dont need back Traxxas digitil proportional three channel radio system Three channel receiver Front and rear servos Two tamiya stock motors Esc is brand new and fitted runs sweet The battery on the truck is not in the auction Truck runs on 7.2 Truck is 520mm long Truck is 320mm wide Truck is 250mm high tyres 150mm tall thoughts/ideas on what would be a better base to start with? bearing in mind that for an extra $100 or so, i get a ready to drive truck, and parts are expensive to get and buy over here for them - everything has to be got from the states :( cheers Dave Last edited by kiwi-fj40; 08-28-2007 at 04:41 AM. |
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| | #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: England, Where the birds fly backwards.
Posts: 628
| My first thought is you DEFINATELY need to limit the suspension. shocks will sort that out though! Oh yeah. welcome to rcrc and ignore all flamers and have fun! |
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| | #3 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
| Looks great, you have most of the right equipment to pull it off. You need one shock and spring in the front and one in the back. |
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| | #4 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| Hey, is limiting the suspension the same as on my full scale fj40, using a limit strap? or is it different on RC.. theres so much info here it hurts my brain lol thanks for the welcome. |
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| | #5 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| Quote:
iv played with RC before, but never anything this complex.. | |
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| | #6 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
| It depends, the first one needs to be finished. A couple parts need to be fabricated. Drilling a stick chassis is better left to the experienced. I would go with the complete one. Then tune and mod get some experence down. |
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| | #7 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| cool, thats what im starting to think after reading threads on here, iv purchased a new body - fj40 hehe, and thats hopefully on the way from the states, just one question.. how do you weld on these? being alloy, do you tig? or something just like a cold weld epoxy? |
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| | #8 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: England, Where the birds fly backwards.
Posts: 628
| People usually don't have the equipment to weld (no tig welders) so if you can tig weld then great! but if not the good old nut and bolt will hold the same and allow andthing broken to be changed again. |
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| | #9 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
| Welding aluminuim is one of toughest metal to weld, well. Tig would be the best way. There are Alum-a-Weld rods that you can use with gas welding. Screws are the best bet. |
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| | #10 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| yeah, can weld in mig, oxyacetelene, and tig, have a cert, though havent ever worked on anything this small haha, i think for now il stick to the pre-made one and have some fun/get to grips - no pun intended i also read in the tips and tricks sticky that nitros cant crawl..why is this? |
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| | #11 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
| Nitro's don't have the starting torque, throttle control of electric. They are also heavy, noisy, messy, and hard to tune. |
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| | #12 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Aroostook county
Posts: 1,274
| the 2nd one looks like a pretty decent crawler to start with, and Nitros cant crawl because as said about they dont have enough torque, they're noisy, and when you roll them over and spill gas all over the ground its a no no |
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| | #13 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| cool, cheers for the info abou the nitro, will concentrate on electric. as a side note, does anything know anything anything the HPI Savage 4.1 chassis rails? looks like this http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoser...43973_full.jpg, can it be used as a spare base for a rock crawler? or are they designed more for use on a monster truck? cheers |
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| | #14 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Aroostook county
Posts: 1,274
| Quote:
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| | #15 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| sweet, wont bother with that either then.. well, iv been reading heaps of info on here, and after reading, im starting to like the idea of a TLT crawler, rather than a clod as such, just looks more realistic to me. just another few questions, and then il stop annoying you for a while lol. will a 1/10th body which has an 11" wheel base fit onto an SW2 chassis from bender customs or will i be better of using the J2-TT chassis? and out of those chassis' which one is the better or more versatile, after reading the specs, they both seem just as good as each other, and alot of people seem to go with either.. once again, thanks for all your help, will have a build up thread started soon too. cheers Dave |
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| | #16 |
| Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: lititz
Posts: 719
| mornin' and welcome both chassis you mentioned are great base points to start with. either one will take a 1/10 body. the sw2 chassis definatley has more mounting postions for for your shocks, links, etc. I ran a sw2 chassis for a couple of years and loved its tune ability with all of the mounting positions. the j2-tt chassis is definatley a good chassis as well, one of the guys in my club runs one for his 2.2 comp rig and has done really well with it. basically either chassis is great, its just a personal preference. either one will get you going in the right direction. matt |
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| | #17 |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| morning as well lol - though only just; 12:23am on saturday lol thanks for the advice, that helps alot, means i can finally make a decision, and im thinking il go with the SW2, as it seems easier to make links, shock mounts for etc. glad to here about the body fitting, means i can finally make a good start on the crawler and order the parts from the states. cheers Dave |
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| | #18 |
| Rock Stacker ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: England
Posts: 90
| Hi I have both the sw2 and the j2-tt chassis's and may i say both are first class quality items. Both Bender and Matt are always willing to answer any questions you may have. On the sw2 if you use a pede tranny, which it is designed for the motor will hang out of one side, however on the j2-tt the chassis is wide enough to put the entire tranny inside without any overhang. Its all a matter of preference really. Whichever one you pick i am positive you will not be dissapointed. heavyD |
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| | #19 |
| MWRCA'er ![]() Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Byron, IL
Posts: 3,781
| I'd just get the Axial Scorpion crawler everything you need in one box. |
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| | #20 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Posts: 17
| Quote:
cheers for the replys | |
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