| | #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: south jersey
Posts: 20
| I'm trying to resurect my bruiser. It currently has a 6v 4000ma battery and a mechanical speed control. I want to make it a decent crawler without spending a fortune! |
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| | #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: aumsvile, orcrc
Posts: 683
| its gonna take a little work but not that hard overall. first thing is to get rid of the msc and get an esc, id suggest a moped v16r or a novack rooster. at this point it might be a good time to look into other battery packs also. second, take off the stock steering and get the steering kit from rc4wd, this will give you more powerful steering and get rid of a lot of slop. im not sure if you have a servo already but id suggest moving up to a servo with better torque ratings, check to other scale builds and see what they are using. third, get rid of the stock tires because they are rock hard and crawl worth a poop. id suggest some of rc4wds new scale tires, though there are a lot of other tires out there to choose from most will have to be narrowed to give a more scale appearance. give us some pictures to see what you have to work with. |
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| | #3 |
| Haters gonna Hate ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: In the Basement building Hiluxs and shit
Posts: 7,522
| Ditch the MSC and get yourself a mamba max or a rooster crawler. I would also loose the stock 3 speed trans, it heavy and parts arent readily available for it. If you decide to keep it, try to find a kyosho USA-1 counter gear, or a thorp USA-1 counter gear. If you cant find one, youll need to pin the slipper. I would recommend using a chino skid plate, can be purchased from RCPCrawlers.com, then you can use a pede trans, or an R2. If you do that, you can then look into a nice Brush less motor system. JohnRobHolmes would be the man to speak to about that. The axes need to be torn downed and ball raced and have the pinion gears shimmed for proper mesh. You will also need to run rear hubs on the front for true 4wheel drive. Or, take a apart the front hubs, clean them good, and JB weld them and put them back together. Chino mod the leaf spring, and this will help flex significantly. Rear the Bruiser 101 in the 2.2 section for more help, or feel free to PM me. I am in the Police academy during the week on my time is limited on rcc for now during the week but I will get back to you over the weekend. -Mike |
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| | #4 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: south jersey
Posts: 20
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| | #5 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: south jersey
Posts: 20
| I've done ALOT of reading. I know all the mods I want to do to this thing but I first need to get it running right. I am looking at the rooster crawler it seems to be my best bang for the buck. I'll also need a battery, this is where it gets confusing... What type of cells and MaH do I need or could I run with the rooster and stock motor? Also, my servos are Futaba fp-s38's will I burn them out with new batteries? |
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| | #6 |
| Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: south jersey
Posts: 20
| In my searches I found this... Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes All of your assumptions on power and runtime are correct. A high wind motor will pull paltry amperage on 7 cell, not have much wheelspeed, and generally give you extended runtimes. Expect 30 minutes in a 2.2 rig with 1500 mah with a 55t. Either increase the voltage on a motor or decrease the wind count to increase your amperage and power available. For the longest runtimes use high wind motors on high volts. A 55t motor on 3s or 9 cell nimh is quite peppy, but the runtime is still pretty decent depending on your throttle finger. If the reasoning is taken too far you get diminishing returns because of the extra battery weight. Switching to lipo helps on high voltage setups. Brushless ESCs control brushless motors, and any ESC that takes a low turn motor will also take a higher turn motor. So if I put a rooster crawler esc and use the stock motor what type of pack should I run to get the longest runtime? |
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