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Old 05-05-2009, 12:02 AM   #1
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Default High-Speed TA-05 Project

My first touring car TA-05 first (testing) stage; Sidewinder, 3s LiPo, 11t brushed motor.

2dn Stage Waiting on the pinion from kershawdesigns.com for the 4400KV brushless with ...

also have a 4s LiPo ,100A ESC ready and a 5900KV motor (by this stage I hope to have built up knowledge such as tires gyro and aerodynamics



First test with the 11t brushed Yokomo Stock II (cheap) motor and these are the problems:

Pretty fast at this stage , tires (HPI Radials) ballooning 2inches high, this should be a prob later ...

Motor and ESC is very hot !!!!!! 3s Lipo warm, I wonder if this is because of the 11t motor or the 30t pinion ???

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Old 05-05-2009, 08:25 AM   #2
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Cool project, the heat problem might be your 30t pinion and also could have someting to do with your lipo pack quality/specs
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:12 AM   #3
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Cool project, the heat problem might be your 30t pinion and also could have someting to do with your lipo pack quality/specs
Thanks cartron I do need all the tips I can get to make this project work ...

That lipo is not the one I tested with ,it was a 3s Zippy 2200mah 25c (which is a pretty nice pack)...

Once the new pinion comes in I will switch to brushless and test out the new ESC , excited to go up to 4s pack ...

I guess the areodynamics wont be a huge problem with the current body either.

The stock radio is scary at these speeds ...it looks like I'll be a 3 PK or PM soon unless I get one of the cheap 4ch 2.4Ghz from Hobby City
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:29 AM   #4
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get foam tires. youll go alot faster. you will just need to buy alot of sets
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:26 AM   #5
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Definately look into a better radio and at least belted TC tires for it I am kinda curious where you found the C3 Vette body though
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:48 AM   #6
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Definately look into a better radio and at least belted TC tires for it I am kinda curious where you found the C3 Vette body though
Its a Kamtech Chervrolet Corvette Stingray body Tamiya 1:10 Lexan 160
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:49 PM   #7
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to prevent tire ballooning, the 5th scale gas guys use molding foams (more like rubber) and glue the "foam" to the wheel AND tire.
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:12 PM   #8
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My guess is that at the speeds you target, any rubber will balloon after a run or two even if it is glued to molded inserts. Apart from this the rubbers will heat up very quickly and shred to pieces even quicker and I guess you wouldn't want that in a high speed run. I would suggest going the foam way if the area you are racing is clean of dirt. They too will deteriorate, but in a slower rateand they hold their form in uber high revs. Definitely get a better radio. Finally you might want to try a lola style body 1/8th scale style, I know there are in 200mm size but I am not certain about 190mm. With this body I see a slight risk of getting great downforce in the rear while the front will not enjoy equal pressure.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:41 PM   #9
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Unless you wired the sidewinder in fwd only mode, and it looks like you haven't, it won't handle 11t motors. Around 19t would be the safe limit the way you have it wired. Check your manual, or http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...s_ed_guide.pdf

The 2200mah 25c might be too low, I'm not sure about brushed amp draws. They tend to draw pretty high amps though, why else would you get lower runtimes from brushed motors?

The motor most probably got hot because of overgearing.
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:39 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Karadjas View Post
Unless you wired the sidewinder in fwd only mode, and it looks like you haven't, it won't handle 11t motors. Around 19t would be the safe limit the way you have it wired. Check your manual, or http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...s_ed_guide.pdf

The 2200mah 25c might be too low, I'm not sure about brushed amp draws. They tend to draw pretty high amps though, why else would you get lower runtimes from brushed motors?

The motor most probably got hot because of overgearing.
I forgot that I even have a manual

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My guess is that at the speeds you target, any rubber will balloon after a run or two even if it is glued to molded inserts. Apart from this the rubbers will heat up very quickly and shred to pieces even quicker and I guess you wouldn't want that in a high speed run. I would suggest going the foam way if the area you are racing is clean of dirt. They too will deteriorate, but in a slower rateand they hold their form in uber high revs. Definitely get a better radio. Finally you might want to try a lola style body 1/8th scale style, I know there are in 200mm size but I am not certain about 190mm. With this body I see a slight risk of getting great downforce in the rear while the front will not enjoy equal pressure.
yes there is a lot to experiment with ,thanks for the tips !!! the Lola bodies u mention who makes them??


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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
to prevent tire ballooning, the 5th scale gas guys use molding foams (more like rubber) and glue the "foam" to the wheel AND tire.
these are already done ...might try on the next ones

Last edited by TheHeadHunter; 05-05-2009 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:14 PM   #11
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K-Factory makes 200mm lola bodies for the Team Magic G4.
Protoform makes another 200mm one. http://www.prolineracing.com/p-326-lola.aspx
Kawahara is coming out with a closed cockpit 200mm onroad body http://kawahara-racing.co.jp/ezw.html although if they're meant for 1/10 nitros with 30-40mm wheels, they'll probably end up ~220-230mm wide. Nothing stopping you from using the GPR wheels as well though
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:35 PM   #12
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I'm kinda working on the same kind of project with my VXL powered Electric 4-Tec only I chose this body to try for speed runs, only with the spoiler trimmed down for less downforce on the rear. I'm guessing maybe trimming it down to 1/4-1/2 the height of the stock one. I've got this one on order to mount my Go-Pro Camera on too

Last edited by BJoe; 05-05-2009 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:08 AM   #13
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Tag! I just built my first touring car too. TA05-IFS. Just an 11t2x and GTX ESC right now. Also have a Cobalt 8t I wanna try before I go to brushless. If you convert the front suspension to IFS, you can get the lower profile bodies.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:30 AM   #14
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I see broken belts (or at least stretch to unsuable sizes) in your future

Good luck. I still want to build some go fasts just never get around to it.
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:16 AM   #15
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I see broken belts (or at least stretch to unsuable sizes) in your future

Good luck. I still want to build some go fasts just never get around to it.
That's why you baby it off the line then nail the gas once it's rolling

I know a guy that used to have problems with the aluminum tube TC3 driveshafts when he was playing with brushless years ago on high voltage (pre Li-Po), he'd actually twist them in two if he hammered it off the line and actually had traction
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:50 AM   #16
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I think, not sure though, tamiya has or had some carbon aramid reinforced belt for ta 05. Karadjas is right about brushed motors. Since they are highly inefficient compared to brushless they tend to draw more amp, waste more energy into heat etc. Your ticket is nice BL motor like feigao plettenberg(ouch), lehner(ouch), schultze(ouch), medusa, neu, dualsky or anything that can handle the voltage you intend to use. My guess is also to bin the MM esc and go for an HV car esc. The german makers I mentioned have nice escs (and ridiculously expensive btw).

As for the bodies rcmart has a whole section in them 200mm: http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/body-d...-438_1319.html The 200mm served me in the past quite well with some spacers or wider hexes => more stable car => worse steering and higher roll rate but you probably don't care about those factors since the only turns you will be making are to bring the car back to you (if it is still in one piece!).

In the radio section I can only suggest little cause my experience is quite limited. I only had one nitro speed demon almost 10 years ago. Anyway I used an FM radio (M8 back then) and set the steering dual rates very low about 30 to 40% since too much steering was totally useless. I also used a tail lock standard size servo because it had the best centering and locking attributes even than better and pricier racing servos. Finally I had about 20% percent arc (exponential) in steering to keep the servo as smooth as possible in the center section and minimize aggressive movements.

Darn I wrote a friggin book there! Sorry for the long post and bad english.
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:40 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Harley0706 View Post
I see broken belts (or at least stretch to unsuable sizes) in your future

Good luck. I still want to build some go fasts just never get around to it.
The thing that bothers me about the belts at the moment is the amount of time needed to mount the damn things ...thanks for the warning .

I will make sure to accelerate gradually
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:46 AM   #18
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Darn I wrote a friggin book there! Sorry for the long post and bad english.
No problem , great English

Thanks for the tips everyone!!!

Looks like a new body is my next step for now ...switching VISA card to a Japanese type sucks cant order nothin online for a while ...
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