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08-12-2011, 09:00 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| Szczerba's Trophy Truck Build.. With Videos
Bought this 2x4 Trophy truck from an RCC member. Best I can tell I am the 3rd owner. Uses a Wheely King rear axle, MIP driveshaft, Slash 2WD trans, 2WD front clip, custom build cage/floor pan. Plans: Rework the trailing arm mounts to chassis, probably need to find some who can weld aluminum for a solid mount, or use braces. Maybe replace chassis with another material? Aluminum now. Clean up, fix cage Look for better trailing arms if possible Install Slash 4x4 front clip: Wheelbase at 13.5" now. Will need to shorten. Remount steering servo Use Axial long MIP for driveshaft Probably have to use two lipo packs to fit on either side of driveshaft Rework front of cage to relocate shock towers First two pictures of how I got it. 3rd picture is with junk body and swapped my Cherokee wheels/tires to it for looks. Last edited by Szczerba; 08-12-2011 at 10:46 PM. |
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08-12-2011, 09:05 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| ....
Front end mock up Got a 4x4 slash roller from Tuffguy for shipping cost. $8!!!!!!!!!!! thanks Kevin!!! Quick mock up; Consists of drilling one new hole in chassis. The droop isn't set yet cause the aluminum chassis hits the arms but it will droop more once that is trimmed. |
08-12-2011, 09:11 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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Aight this is where I am scratching my head. Questions for the short course suspension guru's. The 2WD drive slash front end is kicked up pretty good up front. IE lots of caster, which is ok cause the wheels stick out further than the fender wells (longer wheelbase) but travel at an angled path to bottom out in the center of the wheel area on the body. This extreme front end angle seemed to make the shocks bind up too. The 4x4 slash front is level, so the wheelbase will have to be shortened quite a bit. I will have to bend the chassis to kick the setup back but then you start cutting into the driveshaft angle. So my question for these fast trucks does the front end need to have a ton of caster on the front end clip to soak up bumps better? Or can I run it like the Slash 4x4 pretty level? The wheelbase is 13.5" now but will have to be shorted to about 12.5" for the wheel to travel straight up and down in the wheel well area. Might have just answered my own question..... The slash 4x4 is 12.75" out of the box so I can easily reduce the wheelbase to compensate for lack of static caster caused by kicked back front end. Clear as mud? Need more pictures? Last edited by Szczerba; 08-12-2011 at 09:31 PM. |
08-12-2011, 10:01 PM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Crawlerado
Posts: 1,411
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Isn't there about 10 degrees of rake to the stock skid that holds the diff and steering parts? I would think that would be plenty, the 4x4 slash I had soaked up bumps fine.
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08-12-2011, 10:06 PM | #5 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| Quote:
I wonder why the Slash 2WD is raked so far back? I am probably missing some elementary suspension concept here. Last edited by Szczerba; 08-12-2011 at 10:10 PM. | |
08-12-2011, 10:31 PM | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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Wheelbase set to 12.5". Screw on chassis is just for rough setting of wheelbase. Other supports will be incorporated. Chassis will need to be trimmed for tire clearance and A-arm droop. |
08-20-2011, 11:12 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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Hacked on the front of the chassis. A-arms droop out now. I'll have to trim the chassis for steering clearance. The tires hit the chassis when locked. I cut off the front frame support. I'll tie the front skid back into the shock tower and lower windshield area after I line out the front end. Wheelbase is at 12.5". The chassis was not square when I got it. I am not making it any better. I might get it all mocked up for the 4x4 setup and then get a new sheet of AL and recut one. Got the front driveshaft lined out. Just a spare JunFac shaft I had in the parts bin. I'll have to drill one end out to 6mm for the slash front diff. The slash trans output is 5mm. The white (red label) slash springs are way too soft. I have since cut down some other firmer springs from the parts bin. Last edited by Szczerba; 08-20-2011 at 11:27 PM. |
08-21-2011, 08:30 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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Drilled out a JunFac driveshaft to 6mm on one end. Uses 3mm "pass through" pins. Front one is not screwed all the way in. Changed the front shocks. Working on my JK most of the time now, so this build is on the back burner. Last edited by Szczerba; 08-21-2011 at 08:34 PM. |
08-22-2011, 06:30 AM | #9 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit
Posts: 3,583
| Quote:
Problem with all RC 4x4's is the input access so the Caster therefore has to be reduced greatly. Most 2wd RC's are in the 20-30 Caster range. Most 4x4 runs 5-10 degrees. | |
08-22-2011, 07:02 AM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: roland,ar
Posts: 5,981
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looking good shane! love to get some video of it cresting a jump or 2! |
08-22-2011, 07:07 AM | #11 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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The way the 4x4 front lower a-arm/skid is, I can screw the rear mounts flush to the chassis and then bend the front of the chassis to match. This should give me the caster needed and not effect the drivetrain. | |
08-22-2011, 07:08 AM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
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08-22-2011, 07:19 AM | #13 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit
Posts: 3,583
| Quote:
Watch bending aluminum it can be brittle and break depending on its alloy and temper level. | |
08-22-2011, 08:55 AM | #14 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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looks very similiar to my looniebin TT. even the textured cage paint. is that who made it? looking forward to this! you didnt mention what body that is. mine is SC8 |
08-22-2011, 10:04 AM | #15 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| Quote:
I found this short video of it while researching build ideas. http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...4-15-44_25.mp4 I am pretty sure it's a Chevy Slash body. It's pretty much junk or a basher body. Not much integrity left in it. It will get a new one. Just deciding on which body will look best. I was thinking the JC Manta or the SVT Raptor (Even though I am not a Ford guy). But UpGrade RC makes some cool skins for proline bodies. Can't remember your looniebin TT build. You have a link? Last edited by Szczerba; 08-22-2011 at 10:27 AM. | |
08-22-2011, 11:48 AM | #16 |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
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gotcha id throw a chevy body on it. they look so sweet. but maybe im biased heres mine, im curious if one of the new CC SC 4 pole motors would be enough torque to haul this heavy thing with any authority. ~TSS~ Solid Axle SlashC8 V2.0 |
08-22-2011, 11:56 AM | #17 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| Quote:
My truck has a VXL setup, 22T pinion and slash 2WD trans, it's pretty slow at 2WD on 11.1v. It will need an upgraded motor or gearing for sure. | |
08-23-2011, 01:50 PM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 596
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switch to a mod1 gear setup with a revo spur gear (much higher gearing avaible and more durable) id put a 550 6.5 turn in there on 3s and it should move pretty damn good! i happen to have an extra 6.5 550 actaully. You will need to turn your servo 90 degrees so that it sit beside the motor rather than behind the end of it. btw mod1 pinion arent cheap but i actaully have atleast one if not 2 of all of them made so if you wanna bring it by we can figure out which one you need by jsut trying them out and then you can just by the one you need from me rather than guessing. |
08-23-2011, 07:47 PM | #19 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,786
| Quote:
I thought I had a 4.5 motor but i think i traded it off. Would I need a selection of revo spurs? Around what tooth count you think? I assume the Slash 2WD trans will take all this. What about any internal upgrades for the Slash 2WD trans? I might just send you truck when it's ready and have you setup the darn thing up with gearing and you could bill me later. y | |
08-24-2011, 07:20 AM | #20 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Minnesota/Indiana
Posts: 67
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Hey Szczerba, the re-build is looking good. I had seen that truck around the internet before, and I had always wanted to see more of it, so keep the pictures coming. If you are looking for motor/gearing options I just went through the same issue on my Slash 4x4 TT build. I stuck with 32p gearing and used a 28t pinion with a 50t spur. After switching through a bunch of different motors I settled on the Novak 4.5t (5000Kv) 550 motor on 2s for now. It should top out at roughly 30MPH with this setup. I made all the calculations using this very helpful site. I plan on moving up to 3s and lowering my pinion gear to a 22t, this should get me up to 36 MPH, plus I'll have more torque and longer run times (with same mah battery). Hope this helps. |
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