|
![]() |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() | #61 | |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Quote:
![]() Seriously, if it rolls over, it will shatter. That`s for sure. And it will get worse after each repair ... ![]() So, no roll overs with this body. ![]() Thank you, that`s the plan. For today, I cherry-picked an unnecessary but nice gadget. I started on the front power take-off shaft. I had the outer parts laying around, so I let go. ![]() Hole pattern for the flanged bearing: ![]() Mounted up: ![]() Losi MRC half shaft in it`s new workplace: ![]() And body shots: ![]() ![]() I plan on using a mini gearbox motor on the inside as power unit, but I haven`t decided yet which size and speed. Painting for the rusty look on the outer parts will follow later. | |
![]() | ![]() |
Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #62 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,589
| ![]()
You could use that to power a winch.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #63 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #64 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
Some goodies came in today: Sand scorcher shocks for a more scale looking tensioner ![]() ![]() ![]() To bad I forgot to order the rubber bushings for the upper joint. Arghrrr ... |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #65 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lehigh Valley
Posts: 6
| ![]()
Excellent thread. Picked up a wifi version and gathering some ideas.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #66 | |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Quote:
![]() Small updates tonight. Update number one, I painted the Tamiya shock housings (gun metal grey): ![]() Made some shafts from stainless screws: ![]() Bolted them together with two red rubber rings (working as rubber springs) ![]() Now I have some nice looking tensioners ![]() ![]() As I have a very slow moving rig, I do not need much tension on my tracks, so this will work fine for me. You speedy guys will need a more dynamic solution for your tensioner. | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #67 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
Small update number two, I had to install the mandatory yellow plastic safety cover on my PTO ![]() So I got some plastic drill boxes and cut them up ![]() Put some paint on them ![]() And after some quick weathering on shaft and bearing I am ready to go: ![]() Safety first! ![]() ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #68 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
The missing ubber bushings arrived yesterday: ![]() installed: ![]() And attached to the vehicle: ![]() ![]() One problem solved, on to the next ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #69 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
I finished the fuel cell today. I managed to build a flange for the fuel lines. I used some styrene sheet for the flange and made some bolt heads from toothpicks: ![]() 1,5mm welding rod for a guard: ![]() Fuel cell with flange, filler pipe and breather. The original Unitrac has an even more ridiculous filler pipe but no breather and flange on top, but I wanted to give it a more interesting look: ![]() To mimic the screw joint I used som 2mm styrene rod and drilled it out with a 1mm drill bit. Oh man, once the scale bug bites you, you are lost ![]() ![]() Some brackets for the fuel lines: ![]() ![]() The fuel lines are made from 1mm stainless steel welding rod: ![]() ![]() I am running out of excuses now for not painting the body ... ![]() Last edited by Stollenritter; 01-11-2015 at 01:49 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #70 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: West Plains, Missouri
Posts: 14
| ![]()
Man that is really coming along. I love the amount of detail! Do you plan on playing with it once it's done or is it going to be a shelf queen?
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #71 | |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Quote:
Of course it will get some runtime! ![]() It will get probably the most runtime by the kids ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #72 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
Finally I started with painting the cab. First I had to mask the windows from both sides, as I will paint the cab from the outside as well as from the inside. This is necessary because I will use a dull color, which isn`t a lexan paint, therefor I have to use a lexan paint for primer first. And since I want to see the same color on the inside as on the outside (as common on Mogs), I have to paint from both sides. I hope this makes sense and I hope it will work. Masking is done: ![]() I got interrupted by the postman, who brought some very nice scale parts from rc4x4-shop.cz for the UT90: ![]() I couldn`t resist to put the snorkel on the Mog: ![]() Best Mog snorkel ever ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #73 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,589
| ![]()
Man, you are going all-out with the detail on this thing. I'm content to use the stock body covers or panels that come with my vehicles, I just care if the mechanical and electronic parts work as well as possible. Looks like a great project for cold winter nights, though, as long as you have someone to keep you company when you get sick of tinkering.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #74 | ||
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Yes, once you get into detail, you are lost ![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() | ||
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #75 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]()
Finally I got some paint on the cab. It is not perfect but I am happy with the result. So I took the Unitrac out for some outdoor shots: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Hope you enjoy ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #76 |
Mikes RC World ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Land of NO 4wheeling toyota cwarlers or drag racing sortafast chevelles
Posts: 8,845
| ![]()
Looks awesome dude, totally digging the mog body on it ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #77 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Casper
Posts: 504
| ![]() ![]() What electronics you using? Hard to see in the pic.. TIA |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #78 |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Thank you! A Mog on tracks is uncommon, glad you like it ![]() I am running two "HK 35A Sensored/Sensorless Car ESC": ![]() Two "HK S2838-2800 Brushless Inrunner" ... ![]() ... geared down to 14t (stock is 16t): ![]() And make sure to have the matching programming card, which is the "HKSS programming card for HK 150A ESC": ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #79 |
I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: May 2010 Location: The east coast
Posts: 2,572
| ![]()
Any video showing the rig in action? I'm curious how fast it is compared to stock with the motor/ESC combo you chose. Also curious about the low speed control with the sensorless system.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #80 | |
Quarry Creeper ![]() Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany
Posts: 316
| ![]() Quote:
![]() But now that I have the matching programming card, I will get back into this and try to teach him some manners ![]() I am currently using the radios V-Tal mixxer, which is limiting my choice of channels, so both throttle and steering are on the right hand stick of the radio at the moment ![]() I will order a seperate V-Tail mixxer to have the full range of channels available. I still prefer to have throttle on the left and steering on the right hand side ... | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
![]() | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
kyosho blizzard | venomous98 | Non Crawler RC's | 2 | 02-13-2009 01:12 PM |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |