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Old 08-12-2017, 08:57 PM   #41
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Oops. The pic
I'm thoroughly confused. What does this have to do with my thread?
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:02 PM   #42
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Default Re: JatoTheRipper Tamiya M-07 Concept

My apologies,Sir. Wrong group,wrong Jato. Perhaps a mod can clean delete my mess. Sorry all


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Old 08-13-2017, 12:11 AM   #43
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My apologies,Sir. Wrong group,wrong Jato. Perhaps a mod can clean delete my mess. Sorry all
No worries!

No need to delete your post, but as an FYI for the future you are able to delete your own posts. It's under the "Edit" button on said post.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:54 AM   #44
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Let's get some paint on this bad girl. I'm digging it. I didn't want to paint it blue, but the LHS didn't have many good colors in stock.

This IS an incredibly cool build. I had the laptop on one forum,the iPad on another group,and the phone...who knows lol. By the way,this Jato cat couldn't carry your lunch box in the RC world,JatoTheRipper
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Old 08-14-2017, 02:04 PM   #45
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The body was missing something. Body lines! This small detail is extremely simple to do using an ultra fine Sharpie, but it makes a world of difference visually IMHO. I just often forget to do it.

I also have to stop being lazy and remember to do some more cleanup along the wheel openings and the rest of the body lines with a Dremel.





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Old 08-14-2017, 02:05 PM   #46
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Here you can see the original holes for the body posts and the antenna. I wish Tamiya would stop putting holes in their bodies.

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Old 08-14-2017, 02:33 PM   #47
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Default Re: JatoTheRipper Tamiya M-07 Concept

Yep. Maybe touch up with a dremel or round file the left front fender well eh?

Typical Tamiya with the mold line on the back half. Always messing up good bodies with those... Heck, there's one in front too.

Use some tape that you paint (same color) to cover up unused holes.
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:13 PM   #48
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Yep. Maybe touch up with a dremel or round file the left front fender well eh?

Typical Tamiya with the mold line on the back half. Always messing up good bodies with those... Heck, there's one in front too.

Use some tape that you paint (same color) to cover up unused holes.
This is a temporary body so I didn't go crazy. It definitely needs some cleaning up though.

Yes, Tamiya has odd mold lines. But I think there's often a reason and that's because it allows more details in their lexan bodies. One piece molds make part removal a nightmare when you have lots of details.

I thought about the tape. It doesn't bother me enough to fix it and, like I said, this body is only temporary until my real one gets here.
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Old 08-16-2017, 02:11 PM   #49
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My car seemed to wander while driving. The Turnigy 1251TG also made some odd sounds. This servo took tons of abuse on the track while learning to drive 2Wd buggy. That was a new class for me, and as stated earlier in this thread, I thought this servo had died, but it worked when I plugged in it before installing it in this car. I chalked up the wandering and funny sounds to the hard life it lived in my B5M. So I ordered a Savox 1251MG Black Edition. I have one of these in my Turnigy XI Sport touring cars and I'm a big fan.



One thing I quickly found out with my first Savox 1251MG Black is that the lead wires are SHORT. They are probably only about 3" long. They just worked with my XI Sport and it's even closer with the M-07 Concept. Perfect.



While removing the Turnigy servo I realized my wandering steering was because the servo was loose! I tightened it down when I installed it, but I had to loosen it up to feed the wire down under the servo and through the hole in the chassis to get to the receiver. This friggin' n00b forgot to tighten it back up. Oh well. The servo was making dying noises anyway.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:37 AM   #50
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I want to keep this car brushed since that's what my friends are running. The Tamiya 27T silver can gets really hot with the stock gearing. I don't want to drop down in pinion size and lose top speed so I bought a fan from 3Racing. I designed and 3D printed a simple, but effective fan mount.



The mount is as perfectly centered as I can get it without interfering with the steering rod.



Here's the layout of my car. Tamiya states to put the ESC on the left side of the car. I wish I would have put it on the right. I think that would have given me a little better balance since the motor hangs out the left side of the chassis.

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Old 08-18-2017, 07:29 AM   #51
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As stated in post #6, Tamiya decided it would be a good idea to put a gaping obround in the bottom of the chassis right below the transmission gears. It's supposedly an access hole for the grub screw on the pinion. That makes sense, but I don't think the hole needs to be as large as it is. Tamiya's solution of including aluminum tape is a horrible Band-Aid. The bottom piece of tape was peeled completely off after less than 2 battery packs. I foresaw this so I also put tape on the inside. I'm glad I did because there were pebbles stuck to the bottom of the top piece of tape after the rear piece of tape was peeled away. Tamiya is better than this. This is my biggest gripe of the car.

JatoTheRipper Tamiya M-07 Concept

What I did was design and 3D print a plug for this hole. I think Tamiya should have included a plug similar to this with the kit. It took a few revisions, but now the plug fits perfectly and it has held up great to numerous runs. The car will bottom out on the plug with really hard hits, like the seams in my driveway, but it should never contact the ground on a racing surface or nice parking lot.

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Old 08-18-2017, 08:41 AM   #52
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Ok Mr. Ripper, when do we get to see the new body? The suspense is killing me


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Old 08-18-2017, 08:43 AM   #53
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Ok Mr. Ripper, when do we get to see the new body? The suspense is killing me


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Haha! I received the body earlier this week. I'm disappointed. It's supposedly an M Chassis body, but it's way too wide. I'm trying to find wide and/or wide offset M wheels.
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Old 08-18-2017, 12:58 PM   #54
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Haha! I received the body earlier this week. I'm disappointed. It's supposedly an M Chassis body, but it's way too wide. I'm trying to find wide and/or wide offset M wheels.
Get offset hexes from RCmart...they come up to 6mm or so... Or get hpi True Ten wheels with 3 or 6mm offset from ebay

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Old 08-18-2017, 03:31 PM   #55
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Get offset hexes from RCmart...they come up to 6mm or so... Or get hpi True Ten wheels with 3 or 6mm offset from ebay

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Nice looking True Ten wheels are difficult to find.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:32 PM   #56
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I received my chassis plug from Shapeways. The one I printed looked good and was holding up fine, but the Shapeways one is black and should hold up even better.

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Old 08-21-2017, 07:15 AM   #57
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The next upgrade I purchased were the DCJ (Double Cardan Joint) shafts. The front wheels would really chatter at full lock while spinning. Installing the DJC's made a big improvement there. No stuttering even at full lock.



Here you can see the stock CVDs (top) next to the DCJ shafts (bottom).

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Old 08-22-2017, 07:47 AM   #58
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Get offset hexes from RCmart...they come up to 6mm or so... Or get hpi True Ten wheels with 3 or 6mm offset from ebay

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I ordered both 3mm and 6mm offset HPI True Ten wheels. Hopefully those solve my issues. I'm worried about the scrub radius with the 6mm offset though.
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Old 08-22-2017, 09:12 AM   #59
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I ordered both 3mm and 6mm offset HPI True Ten wheels. Hopefully those solve my issues. I'm worried about the scrub radius with the 6mm offset though.
I "would" think it would no effect it much with the right ackerman adjustments and ball diffs...but it's fwd so idk.

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Old 08-22-2017, 09:16 AM   #60
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Because you're sick and because it rubbed off on me I went searching for the wheels. They actually look much better than expected. But thankfully, or maybe unfortunately, I can't find them in stock anywhere.

They have these style m wheels on ebay... Only 2 pair, with tires...but different compound rudder on each. By tech racing or something...

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