OS's Outlaw Rampage Pro

[OSRC]

Finally got the electronics mounted...nothing fancy, rebranded Hobbywing 50A ESC and a cheapish 3000kv motor. Should be enough to keep things entertaining.


My battery pack slid around in the chassis quite a bit. Don't like that, it can make for erratic handling so I cut up some foam and braced the battery in the box. Nice and solid in there now!



I have to program the ESC via the receiver plug... getting to the receiver is an 8 screw massive pain in the ass, as I found out when I turned it on for testing and realized I plugged the steering in backwards. Had to tear it all apart again.....takes way longer than it needs to. While it was apart, I dremeled an access hole in top of the receiver box. Can't remove the cover completely as it is a very necessary upper chassis brace. Nothing a little dremel time won't fix! I covered it with black tape to keep out dirt - seems like it's going to work out great.


FIRST DRIVE! oh, wait. Pouring again...


(5 hours later) Sun's out, seems to be drying, lets's rock.... and, when you know what happened. Tooling around to set the steering trim and can hear the trans failing. Drove for maybe 30 seconds.


Coasted to a stop in the grass as I no longer had brakes.


Quick inspection of the gears. The spur was molded bad... noticed it when installing the motor and setting the mesh. Knew it wasn't going to last, though I was hoping for more than 30 seconds. It's out of round bigtime....notice the first pic is good mesh, the second it barely makes contact with the pinion. Not to mention the screwed up tooth profile. Entire gear stripped, going to have to pull the gearbox and clean it all out - full of plastic dust.

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by Gula

Hey how is it size wise compared to the 1/12 HPI trophy truck, didnt you have one of those?

I do. It's much longer, and just a bit wider.

Originally Posted by CM9000

Its about the size of a regular sct. Has same wb as a losi 22sct 3.0. I think the kyosho is a tid wider though.

And yes, a set of slash tires on it would really help me out.

Negative sir, the Kyosho is much narrower than a SC truck. Very scale in the dimensions, much closer to my TRX4 than my Slash.

I will get some pics in any case!

[OSRC]

Here are some comparison pics if they are helpful. Again, pardon the pics - lighting in here is just terrible this time of day. My workbench is covered in another project.

KORP Vs. my Slash. Converted to a buggy, though the dimentions are the same. WB is about the same, though the track widths at the bottom of the front tires are 235/290mm respectively.


Axial 2.2 tires on my Slash are the same size as those on the KORP.


2.2 SC Beadlocks "Slash Front" offset. Can't use "Slash Rear," just not enough offset. Works fine in the front, no rubs or clearance issues. Hits the swaybar pretty significantly out back. Maybe narrower wheels like the Axials might work?




And a few pics compared to my HTP Mini Trophy for Gula (220mm track width). Don't mind the dust, the MT is on display upstairs and it's a bit dusty. Both of these trucks are way cool.... Kinda wish the Kyosho was actually driveable though.

[CM9000]

I thought the width was the same according to the 22sct 3.0 measurements show on tlr's site.

anyway.. a link to the gears. unfortunately it comes as a set.

[Shinchu]

if wheelbase is close, one could use a slash/sct "proline body" and have wider offset wheels to clear stuff like swaybar linkage, yes?
you could also try "inboarding" the swaybar links to the inside of the mount?

really a bummer to hear about the gears destroying themselves. hopefully their customer service is decent here?

you think it was a gear that's out-of-round? or could be a bent shaft?

[CM9000]

Originally Posted by OSRC

I spy a slipper clutch in there!

The gear looks really bad in this picture...

[FastMatt]

Not enough pellets got shot into that mold for sure.

[OSRC]

Time for a little surgery... KYOUSA is sending replacement gears (Responded quick and very easy to deal with BTW) which is nice, but I was anxious to get this on the road. The Associated gear showed up and looked pretty close, so I tore it down to see if it would fit.

Both screws that hold the lower links and swaybars on are bent slightly. Huh. Hard to see in the pic, but very noticeable when they came out. Replaced with non-bent hardware when reassembling.


Associated gear looks like it will fit fine. Slipper notches are just slightly larger, but I think it'll work out ok. Transmission comes apart in just a few minutes - pretty simple design. Swapped the pinion with a machined steel 12t while I was in there.


Wow....looks like the slipper was a bit loose too. This is after 30 seconds, and a stripped spur?? It was a hot mess in here!


All back together, regreased, tightened down and ready for action.


Decals came in as well....think it came out pretty decent. Some retro decals here... kind of fits the theme!


Tried to get some hoon pics. My helper was busy, so I did the best I could. GT3B is not the best for 1 handing and picture taking.




Had to crank down on the slipper quite a bit as it seated, though I got it sorted out eventually. Gear seems like its working out fine.


First off, it's amazing the complete and utter difference in the transmission. Even rotating it by hand on the table, I could tell how much smoother it was. This truck is now dead silent.... THIS is the Kyosho I expected. There's a small whine from the motor and it just whooshes down the road with just some tire noise - almost like a touring car. There's only 3 mating surfaces in the transmission and no dogbones of CVD's to clatter around - it's one of the quietest RC's I've driven in some time.

Suspension-wise I found that lower is better.. I was driving in gravel, grass and pavement and it was cartwheel time if you turned too abruptly on almost any surface. I lowered it down and it helped a bit, but it's somewhat narrow, so you really have to drive it instead of just whipping it around like a SC truck. I like that. Initially it drove like a souped up Hornet with a high COG but just messing with the cage and spring preload, I tuned quite a bit out.

Kinda of the stance I ended with. Lower is better for sure, otherwise it's roll over city. Plus, I love the hunkered down in the rear look. Might go further actually.


The rear end really struggles for traction, even with just a 3000kv 2 pole motor. Glad I didn't go with the 4 pole 3800 I was contemplating - would have been way too much initially. I moved the spare tires out a bit and it helped by moving the weight back, but even on pavement it's tricky to keep in in a straight line when you punch it from a standstill. Rear end wants to yaw out in either direction. On gravel, it's hoon city the minute you turn the wheel. Fun, but I'll be tuning some of it out...makes it much harder to drive than it needs to be. Going to play with the swaybars, rear foams, and maybe some rear shock springs to see if I can fine tune some of that yaw out.

All in all, it was worth the wait - truck looks flat out FANTASTIC bouncing through the yard! Lots more potential in this one.

[durok]

Excellent test-drive reporting, Sir!

An interesting option to all the other R/Cs out there, to be sure...

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

In California they need to be 100% recycled and many will use the biodegradable (corn) type. But I do hate all the packing peanuts I end up with. I have orders shipped to my work and always open them up there and empty out the peanuts before taking it home.

And how do the tires feel? they have the look of a hard tire.

Yep, the only thing I don't like about RPP all the dang peanuts and usually not the corn biodegradable type either.

Originally Posted by OSRC

Got the paint on...
Couple of poser views


Love the stance of this truck from the front!!

That looks badass! Love the paint scheme too, what silver/gunmetal is that?

Originally Posted by CM9000

this makes me want to run one in stock sct....

Do it!

Originally Posted by OSRC

Lots of adjustments here... not just the usual shock and swaybar options but the cage can be set up with 1 or 2 tires, and the entire thing shifts back and forth relative the the rest of the chassis to adjust weight balance. Pretty clever.

Wow that is nice balance/weight adjustment I've not seen before on RC!

Originally Posted by Shinchu

we should hound matt and josh to do this for their next monthly mayhem challenge???

YES!

[Shinchu]

truck is great but i'll be the guy who asks what studio series transformer that is? lol
really i cant tell my gut says megatron but that orange bubble on the chest is throwing me off.

really great to see the truck is up and running though! and good to know tech support was helpful. great looking truck! and sounds like a blast!

[soze]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

truck is great but i'll be the guy who asks what studio series transformer that is? lol
really i cant tell my gut says megatron but that orange bubble on the chest is throwing me off.

really great to see the truck is up and running though! and good to know tech support was helpful. great looking truck! and sounds like a blast!

Dude... I just picked up a 3rd party masterpiece Megs, and I'm about to pick up another one. They look so much better than my MP-05.

Picking up both the THF and Magten versions.

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

truck is great but i'll be the guy who asks what studio series transformer that is? lol
really i cant tell my gut says megatron but that orange bubble on the chest is throwing me off.

Hand painted Galvatron from AOE, definitely not studio series but he came out ok. Building a semi truck version ... if I ever get it finished. I've got a very beaten Prime chained down on a flatbed trailer to go with it.

[Jay-Em]

Suspension-wise I found that lower is better.. I was driving in gravel, grass and pavement and it was cartwheel time if you turned too abruptly on almost any surface. I lowered it down and it helped a bit, but it's somewhat narrow, so you really have to drive it instead of just whipping it around like a SC truck. I like that. Initially it drove like a souped up Hornet with a high COG but just messing with the cage and spring preload, I tuned quite a bit out

Ha! Exactly my experience. I also found out that just whipping it around on ànything with a bit of grip, would make it a tumbleweed. However, on hard and very dusty undergrounds it can be slid around like a drifter if you treat the throttle and steering with respect.. Dusty hard loam was perfect. A gyro would be bloody handy, though.. (Màn, are we spoiled with low-slung 4wd perfectly balanced all-independent-suspension space cockroaches..)

I also think the front shock springs are a bit too hard. They’re progressive too, by the way, and the truck has a habit of ‘diving’ over the front wheels, and then start flipping. Have to do something about that.

Good to hear that Your gear-woes are over. The Kyosho spur is indeed fubar from the factory, whatever Kyosho America babbles about “too hard material” NO! The pitch is off!!. I threw mine in the bin. A Turnigy 32-p 54t is now inside, and the silence is deafening.
Another thing that makes me sure the spur is broken from the factory: With the noisy spur, the car wouldn’t coast. The moment the 32-p went in, I had to set the ESC to 20% drag brake to get it to stop by itself within a reasonable distance. The gearbox is thàt smooth now.

Did make a booboo. Blew-up the 45amp ESC in the excessive heat overhere.. my own fault. I was having so much fun on a dusty soccerfield, that I slapped-in battery after battery... After 3 x 5000mah it started smoking from within Well... that’ll teach me NOT to try getting away with an ESC without a fan in 34°C and 98% humidity... Éven when the ESC is perfectly specced’ fot the motor..

Question: Have You noticed excessive rubbing sounds from the wheels on the body? After silencing the gears it became quite noticeable, that constant ‘bzzrt, bzrrt’ when the suspension compressed.

[OSRC]

I agree the front springs are a bit on the hard side. I'm not sure how much softer I'd go - I think it would dive over the front on turning a lot more? My plan is to put the hardest swaybar in the front and the softest out back and tune from there. I think the harder swaybar will help quite a bit when turning...I'm not expecting it to handle like a slash in any way - just not in the trucks DNA. I do want to tune out some of the nervousness of the truck.

Speaking of, initially when I drove the truck it was really off - felt like driving on eggshells. Basically anything I did at any speed above walking cause it to roll. I tuned a lot of that out by just lowering it down quite a bit. The rest was from the steering - my steering was way twitchy. It's a bit of an odd setup. I think I have the EPA set at 40% to get max throw. Seems to make for a nervous steering setup. I'm thinking it was adopted from a race platform where real quick steering is a plus. On a truck like this though, I used expo to tone it down. On the last run I got to about 30% expo on my radio and that really seemed to help.

Yes, the body is rubbing somewhere... Not too bad, but I hear it once in a while. I figure after a while the paint will rub off and I'll see where it's rubbing....can just trim it then. I think it's up front.

[CM9000]

The front shocks are setup in a progressive setting. Try standing them up a bit more. Bring em in on the bottom and out on the top if possible.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

[Jay-Em]

@CM9000

Hm. Good idea. And if that doesn’t work, maybe I’ll try some Axial shocks with the -whatsitcalled?- sort of a in/out separate damping through 2 damper discs that fit into oneanother, making a kind of valve. Hard in, to prevent excessive diving, soft out to follow the terrain better. A trick that worked quite well in my Speed-Wrath ( 4.5t sensored.. màd.. )

On the steering, yes, I had to lower it to 40% max to keep it controllable, and it’s still a bit twitchy. For open fields I even dialed it back to 30% to keep it from rolling on the turns. Though, truth be told, high-grip short grass isn’t exactly ideal for a high cg 2wd truck. 30% and properly decelerating before cornering is the way to go. On the really loose stuff keeping power going through the corner, despite what I expected, won’t make it spin-out. It gets in a nice, reasonably stable drift.

It’s... a truck with a lot of character and forces one to adapt one’s driving style. Bit of a (re)learning curve, but part of the fun. Having to un-learn reflexes, aggregated in 40 years of RC car fiddling, is hàrd!

It,s not a ‘bad driving’ truck. On the straights it’s a joy to behold the wheels slamming up&down, while the body remains fairly stable. And it jumps só straight and level, amazing. But, yeah. It’s not an ‘easy’ truck to drive properly. A bit odd, since MOA usually indicates ‘beginners’ car... Maybe on an ordinary 27t silver can it ìs that, but with ample power? Not really.

[nedmo]

Yeah I need to get one of these!

So standard 1.9 beadlocks would work? What's the stock tire diameter? I can see a set of SSD champions being perfect on here!

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[sb4pro]

Just ordered the ready set directly from kyosho . https://www.kyoshoamerica.com/34363T...D_p_26312.html

It has the Pro body , kyosho radio and electronics . and none of the sway bar suspension stuff but it’s got the cage and all that . 1st things I want to upgrade are the shocks and tires . I’ve already got the wheels and tires picked out but I need to know the mm length for the shocks cause I’m thinking about getting some Rc4wd King shocks . I’m gonna use Proline BFGs and metal beadlocks . Basically I’m looking to do an 80s class 8 desert truck . Any help and suggestions would be appreciated

[Catbox]

Man its good to read a good review on this truck.
I really need to paint mine up and get it running now.