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Old 02-25-2008, 10:59 PM   #21
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Here's a simple paint stand from 2 x 4 and music wire. Rubber hose to help hold parts.

This stand works great for model cars - squeeze the sides, slide body over, and let it grip the body from the inside.


I also use it for larger items like this Juggernaut bed. I just duct taped the stand to the bottom of the bed.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:45 AM   #22
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I like those guys. A lot more elaberate than what I was thinking but doable for cheap. The range hood idea I think will still work well. I've painted 1:1 cars before and the volume of paint needed for a R/C car body is so small I don't see the need for a down draft setup. I was looking for a "desktop" booth that measures about 30" high x 18" deep x 24" high total. Range hood with light, filters and fans is $49.95. One sheet of osb is less than $20, any screws, hinges, 7" flexable duct or any other hardware can't total another $35. That makes this thing just over $100 to build. Test the volume of air that these pull above your stove now, they pull enough to take the fumes out the basement window and enough to clear the air your working in but not enough to start drying the project out while painting. The shopvac is a good alternitive but it only pulls the fumes and paint into it. There will be a volume of fumes in that container. I'm talking about building a small booth that vents out my basement window.

If somebody can make a valid argument on why this is a bad hazard or waist of money then let me know. The fire hazard in my oppinion is non existent, fan is ul rated for fire hazard environments and I'm airbrushing only - no aerosols.
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:16 AM   #23
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I can't imagine needing one of these when there are perfectly good waterbased paints out. Why spend $100 when waterbase is cheaper and more easy to use without the fumes.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreek View Post
I got a question about the fireball thing, If the fan were able to ignite the paint fumes then it would also ignite the grease that collects on the filter? I have heard of grease fires in kitchen's but never by the equipment not being properly cleaned. Always
by flame up on the dirty filters.
As far as the downdraft booth idea think of it this way. You paint the body of your clear body from the inside right! Isn't it always in your hand or upside down on the table? Bottoms up, Flows up! Having a down draft booth would be counter productive.

I'm trying to clear out some of the fumes and associated mess of the airbrushing with this thing, I'm not sure that it would be a fire hazard but it seems like a better alternative than painting within 10ft of my gas furnace and water heater! I will be using some solvent based paints but the airbrushing should keep their vapors within check, they put out a lot less then the aerosols.
Ok to answer the question about the grease fire. I am guessing you never had a grease fire? Grease has a very high flashpoint kinda like diesel you have to get it pretty hot for it to ignite, now paint fumes on the other hand from solvent base paint have a very low flash point they can ignite with just a simple spark.

I know we are going a little of the lines of what should be worried about but man you sure don't want to find out when it is to late
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:40 AM   #25
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OK, here is a link that might put things in perspective a little better.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/booth.aspx

If you look at the Paasche Bench Type Filter Booth (BBF) about halfway down the page you'll see what I'm attempting to build. To buy this 22" booth is $1000, more than what I'm willing to spend. Even the 22" model above that the Paasche HSSB-22-16 Spray Booth is $225!

I have used the Faskolor paints as well as the Creatix line and I have moderately happy with the results but there are so much more choice from the other solvent based companies that I want to start using them and with that I need ventilation and evacuation.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreek View Post
I have used the Faskolor paints as well as the Creatix line and I have moderately happy with the results but there are so much more choice from the other solvent based companies that I want to start using them and with that I need ventilation and evacuation.
Most solvent paints you need to add flex modifier, or have it pre-added.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:53 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mr_Freeze View Post

BTW... shop vacs are not explosion / ignition proof either. Ever see that mythbusters episode?

.

you must not have paid much attention, they sucked raw gasoline and let it vaporize and couldn't get it to ignite in the shop vac. EVEN AFTER they intentionally created a 110V short in the motor and drilled holes in the isolation plate that separates the motor from the vacuum tank......

<>MYTH BUSTED<>
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreek View Post
The shopvac is a good alternitive but it only pulls the fumes and paint into it. There will be a volume of fumes in that container. I'm talking about building a small booth that vents out my basement window.

The fire hazard in my oppinion is non existent, fan is ul rated for fire hazard environments and I'm airbrushing only - no aerosols.
You're contradicting yourself.

If you're airbrushing you're using an air compressor...that means aerosols are a non-issue anyway. The fumes you mention are from the propellant as well as a few airborne paint particles.

As far as the Shop-Vac trapping paint...look at my pics again and show me where the paint is trapped.

It's in the filter. If it were passing through the filter you would see it in the floor of the booth.

None there.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:13 PM   #29
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If you're airbrushing you're using an air compressor...that means aerosols are a non-issue anyway. The fumes you mention are from the propellant as well as a few airborne paint particles.

As far as the Shop-Vac trapping paint...look at my pics again and show me where the paint is trapped.

It's in the filter. If it were passing through the filter you would see it in the floor of the booth.

None there.[/quote]

Aerosols are aerosols, period. Your rattle can paints contain aerosols. That is what makes them work and the reason you don't throw them in fires! I will give you that when you airbrush you mix the paint with air and that paint contains solvents, but not what we all refer to as "aerosols". I'm not trying to start a fight but lets keep things straight. There are less "explosive and carcinogenic" elements in an airbrush spray then that from a rattle can. And less over spray as well. As far as your paint booth goes, I like it! Might use it as option. The only thing you haven't said was how do vent the fumes out of the area that the booth is located in? I want them, out of my basement, out of my house and out of my life! The only thing that filter does is collect the paint that wasn't collected on the object it was sprayed at not the stuff that explodes.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:37 PM   #30
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Parma paints DO NOT EXPLODE. They're water based.

Airbrushing with Parma's paint is no more combustible than the air you're breathing right now.

Stay away from aerosols and you'll be fine.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:51 PM   #31
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I was actuly thinking of the House of Kolor colors that just came out. They are solvent based and use agressive solvents so may or may not have a potential for flameability. I'm going to give this thing a try. In a couple of weeks I should be able to post up some results. Like I said before, cost is the real concern so when it's up and running I will be sure to let you guys know how it works and what the final bill was.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:34 AM   #32
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Well mine's not as fancy schmancy as Jasoninwhereverthefcuk but it does what I need it too, which is:
1. Provide me with a relatively safe place to paint
2. Catch over spray and paint dust
3. Protect paint subject from dust while curing
4. Leave a small foot print while not in use.

I made this thing out of panelling and/or the same type material commonly used on the back of entertainment centers and IKEA type furniture. All these pieces were in the bargin bin at OBI (European Home Depot) and the most expensive piece was 2 Euros!! I put it together using an old seatbelt for hinges and some velcro straps to keep it up right and closed.

The idea came to me one night while ordering a pizza. I watched the guy take the flat cardboard and fold it up and figured I could do something similar. So I took the pizza box, made a 1/10th'ish prototype, and then went to work on the fullsize piece.

I still plan to add a dust trap at some point but for now, this works ok.
Enough jibber jabber...Onto the crappy phone pics!!







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Old 09-19-2011, 12:02 PM   #33
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Jason, i really like your spray booth plans. I primarily use airbrush paints for my lexan and some rattle cans for my styrene and I think this is just the right size and shape. I plan to do a couple of changes, I was thinking of making the plexi door in 2 parts, a hinged upper that would work like a sneeze shield on a salad bar and a slide in piece for the bottom. I was also thinking of adding 2 or 4 incandescent lamps in the 60watt area that can be turned on after the paint residue is evacuated to add in drying/curing. What do you think?
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:45 AM   #34
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Digging up a 3 1/2 yrs old thread are we......

I actually forgot about JIA's booth.
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:29 PM   #35
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I think this show's the danger read the description
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2yc7Nkunu4
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