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Thread: Step by Step ... HOME MADE BODY

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Old 05-13-2009, 08:03 AM   #21
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I took a class were you learn how to do all of this, and you don't need the lotion and stuff.

Once you use the vacuum to make the mold, unhook the hose from the Shop Vac and put in the "blow" output, and force air back into the mold when the lexan has cooled. This forces the plastic away about 1/8-3/16" from the foam.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:27 AM   #22
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No, I know you only use it to be wrapped by the hot, melted plastic. Just wasn't sure if it would work out or not.

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You don't put the body in the oven, just the lexan. And yes, you can mold a Nikko or tamiya, but don't sell it because of copyright
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:49 AM   #23
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the lotion is not so much for the release but to hide the texture of the mold.

you can use plastic molds, they work well.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:20 PM   #24
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how thick do you think we can get a body if we use a plastic mold?
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyrock View Post
idk where to get petg but good job
I would also like to know this and can we have a pic of how to make the table? vacuum table
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:12 AM   #26
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Awesome job. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures and do a write up for all of us to enjoy. Really, great job.
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:24 PM   #27
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I have to admit to a great deal of skepticism as I scrolled down through the pics.

But the finished product turned out looking really good. Sort of a Losi MRC/VW Bug cross-breed.

I'm impressed. Excellent job...

Last edited by Big Mike; 05-19-2009 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:42 PM   #28
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That body came out pretty good, nice paint job too.

Searched and found a bunch of vids on homemade vacuum forming, here is one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGBRi...eature=related
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:58 PM   #29
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Great tutorial! I always wanted to make bodies for my other rc trucks! How about duplicating an existing one? There is no way to melt the foam inside an existing body, let it dry and then use your method?
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Old 05-22-2009, 02:54 AM   #30
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I dont think you need to melt it. Just reinforce the inside of the body so it doesnt bend outta shape. Form over it. Seems pretty simple to me.
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Old 05-23-2009, 03:28 PM   #31
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Great thread, thanks for the info!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KAPO View Post
There is no way to melt the foam inside an existing body, let it dry and then use your method?

Spray foam?? Might have to spray the inside of the body with Pam or something to keep it from sticking. Prolly work ok on a lexan body but don't think you'd get much detail that way with a hard body though.


Found a couple links
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE03-...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGBRiYhxRTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-RNn...eature=related

Last edited by DonsATV; 05-23-2009 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 05-23-2009, 05:36 PM   #32
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I forgot about this process. Nice job!
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:12 PM   #33
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Killer info, I saw a youtube vid where a guy was making a 1/4 scale grave digger body not quite a easy as you might think
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Old 05-28-2009, 02:53 PM   #34
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Yes, Youtube has LOTS of information about Vacuum Forming.
I spent a few hours watching videos on vacuum forming, mold making
mold sculpting. Cool stuff!
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:41 PM   #35
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That is seriously cool.

Do folks do it with lexan? It's said that it cools and hardens pretty fast. Where can you buy lexan sheets? Are they cheap enough to make it worthwhile?
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:50 PM   #36
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That is freakin awesome man...Thanks for the write up and pics on how to do it...I think I may have to give it a try..And guys I think www.smallparts.com has some lexan or something similar,I know they have the PETG for sure..

Last edited by Jeepial; 05-29-2009 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 05-29-2009, 03:49 PM   #37
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Awesome write up. Got a couple questions for you.

Im assuming by pics that you are using the oven in your kitchen (as most of us dont have a 2nd oven in the garage) Does heating up the plastic that much cause any smoke, fumes or odor? Ive thought about trying this but the wife wouldnt be too happy if I have the house smelling like burning plastic or something.

How does the PETG hold up to a hard impact? Ive seen a local guy using a prototype body made from the same material and it shattered all to hell the first time it smashed against a rock.

Whats your thoughts on smoothing the foam out with a couple layers of fiberglass resin and sanding it smooth? On paper it seems like a good way to achieve sharp body contours. I would think that the nicer your mold, the better the finished product.
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripperfi View Post
Just reinforce the inside of the body so it doesnt bend outta shape. Form over it. Seems pretty simple to me.
Several years back, I worked in the tool shop of a plastics plant that did all kinds of thermoforming. We made pre-cast molds on a daily basis for secondary operations. Basically, you would take the actual plastic part and reinforce the inside of it. We would cut small plywood pieces (as big as we could and still match the contour of the part, but sometimes as small as 1/2" squares) and hot-glue them to the part. You could do this same concept with a body, but it'll make the original body useless.



Quote:
Originally Posted by RivBlueNoma View Post
Whats your thoughts on smoothing the foam out with a couple layers of fiberglass resin and sanding it smooth?
Our prototype molds were made from wood, and we would use bondo to fill in voids and smooth the texture out. It may work with foam as well. If you use anything that is solid, it will need many very small drilled holes so it will pull vacuum thru it!! The foam is very porous allowing air to flow thru it.
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Old 05-30-2009, 08:32 AM   #39
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I am thinking about trying this to make my new body, but where are you buying your plastic for that cheap? I see it here (http://www.professionalplastics.com/PETGSHEET) for over $30.00 per sheet, not the $4.00 you said. I was thinking about making a 4Runner type mold... but it seems to cost much more.

Also, where or how did you get a vaccuum table? Is it just pegboard and well sealed?
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Old 06-13-2009, 11:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJM View Post
Thanks for the feed back guys!

I have used lexan. Because of the high water content in the lexan it makes the lexan hard to work with. The lexan cools very (very) fast and I can not get a good pull.

I am srill working on the lexan process.
for lexan, putting it in a drying oven overnight usually works if your lexan isnt too old, have to dry it longer i its been laying around for a while
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