RCCrawler Forums - Step by Step ... HOME MADE BODY

THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY
(NOT FOR SALE)

OK, here are some Step by Step instructions on how I have been making my HOME MADE BODIES.

I start with either several small blocks and/or one large block (that I cut to the desired size) of Floral Foam (Hobby Lobby or local craft store). I have found that GORILLA glue works the best, but go light and on use it in the center of the joints.

Floral Foam: $8.00
Gorilla Glue: no cost because I use so little ( approx. $0.01)

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/51.jpg

Here are the tools I am using; RULER, SURE FORM, BREAD KNIFE and SHARPY.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/52.jpg

I first draw the top view of the desired shape on the top of the Floral block with a SHARY. Once I have the rough shape I begin to cut the block with the BREAD KNIFE. It helps keep the cuts straight if I draw vertical lines on the sides of the block.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/53.jpg

I then finish off the design by drawing the desired contour on the side of the block. After using the BREAD KNIFE I use the SURE FORM to cut and round the body. I also cut out the wheel wells using this process. So far I have found it better to indent the wheel wells because of the amount of vacuum that I have; it seem to give a more true "pull". I also use small scrapes of the foam to sand the form into the desired shape. This is very useful in the detail lines of the body.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/55.jpg

Next I cut a piece of 0.04" PTEG to the frame shape and get my frame (18"X18") ready.

2'X2' sheet of PETG: $4.00

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...20step/565.jpg

I staple the PETG to the frame. I try to go over board with the staples to help keep the plastic tight.

Staples: $0.25

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/58.jpg

After the staples are in I hammer the staples to get a better seal when the plastic is applied to the body; basically I am trying to get the staples as flat as possible.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/57.jpg

The PETG comes with a film on both sides. I make sure that I am piling of what will be the inside of the body, ie the top of the frame.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/61.jpg

Once I have the plastic ready I pre-heat the oven to 450 F. This takes about 15 minutes which is just enough time for me to finish up the process.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/56.jpg

While the oven is pre-heating I use Vaseline to fill in any cracks, dents, and/or glue seems.

Vaseline: $0.50

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/62.jpg

To help the mold release and to get the body to "pull" with out texture I use lotion to get a clear and clean finish.

Hand Lotion: $0.25

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/63.jpg

Some areas do not get any negative pressure so I drill holes in the form and cover the area with a uniform texture material. This allows the plastic to take shape in a smaller area. Some design will not need this step.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/64.jpg

Next I set up my vacuum table close to the oven and about knee level. This allows me to get a good and even amount of force while applying the plastic to the body.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/65.jpg

When I hook up the shop vac I make sure the hose is straight. This helps with the amount of negative pressure that the plastic will see.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/66.jpg

I then place the body on the vacuum table.

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/67.jpg

Now that the oven is pre-heated it is time for the plastic to go in the oven. I place the wooden frame on the oven rack with the plastic on the top of the frame. The heating process only takes a few minute so I keep a close eye on it. Once the plastic starts to sag in the middle we are getting close.

(DO THIS STEP QUICKLY) As soon as the plastic sags to the oven rack (about 4" because of the height of my frame) I pull the plastic out of the oven. I flip the frame so the plastic is hang of the bottom of the frame (no photo). I place the plastic directly on the body and then apply pressure. once the plastics starts to take shape I hit the power to the vacuum (I use an extension cord that has a foot switch). I allow the vacuum to do its magic for about 1-2 minute and then it is time to cool.

(If the vacuum is running when you apply the plastic to the form you will trap air between the form and the plastic. This will cause your body to have waves in the final shape)

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/68.jpg

This is what I get. You can see the affects of the Vaseline on the seem in the middle of the form. Also notice the texture of the excess plastic, it takes the shape of the peg board. After the body is fully cooled I carefully cut the body out and throw away the extra plastic (it still will have the staples in it so I take it to the out side trash per the wife's request)

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/69.jpg

This is the body mounted on my Comp AX10. I lined the sides of the body with Duct Tape to protect the paint because I am not confident that the paints adheres to PETG as well as it does to LEXAN.

After some testing we will find out.

Lexan Paint: $2.00
Liquid Mask: $1.00

http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20step/72.jpg

RAW MATERIAL COST FOR A PAINTED HOME MADE BODY:

$16.00

I am still working on the process and getting it dialed in. I will continue to post improvements and new designs.

Check out this Youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5CGfoxnKaQ) for more instructions on the vacuum table and general process. I do not do the vacuum floor adapter, I just use a core bit to to dill a hole the size of my vacuum hose; one less joint.