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Old 09-20-2009, 11:44 AM   #1
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Default Painting question - black backer coat

I just painted my first body. The can said to wait at least 30 minutes before spraying a black backer coat. My question is, is the black backer coat necessary? I don't have any backer paint, my LHS don't carry any and I think for my first paint job it looks fine. Thanks for the reply...
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:20 PM   #2
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read this. This should help as it still apllies if using rattle cans
http://www.team3sixrc.com/rcairbushing101.htm
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Old 09-20-2009, 01:45 PM   #3
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i take it that you're using pactra's new metalic colors

the simple answer is yes you do need a black backer

to get a little more in depth, you dont necesarly need to use theirs. its basically a black water based paint that is shot fairly thin.

you can use regular black out of a can but you need to basically just mist the painted portions. you do not want to lay down a heavy coat. an airbrush would be ideal but you can lay down the proper amount of the outlaw black if you're care full. i find that tamiya cans use a finer nozzle giving you a finer mist though

here's a link to a body i painted w/ the new pactra metalic
crowd pleazer w/ WOOLY BOOGERS

the grainyness of the paint is not going to be as pronounced if you dont use a black backer
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Old 09-20-2009, 03:19 PM   #4
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i dont personaly like using black as a backing color, it tends to make the color too dark for me. i tend to use white for solid colors and metalic silver for metallic colors. the silver brightens up the color just a touch and adds a ton of more metallic to the color, the metallic silver is also the easiest spray can color i have ever used. it sprays on super thin and covers in 1-2 light coats. it mostly depends on what final color your looking to acheive
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Old 09-20-2009, 03:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dub599 View Post
i dont personaly like using black as a backing color, it tends to make the color too dark for me. i tend to use white for solid colors and metalic silver for metallic colors. the silver brightens up the color just a touch and adds a ton of more metallic to the color, the metallic silver is also the easiest spray can color i have ever used. it sprays on super thin and covers in 1-2 light coats. it mostly depends on what final color your looking to acheive
x2....i coudlnt have said it any better
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Old 09-20-2009, 03:29 PM   #6
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the new pactra metalics NEED a black backer to get the labeld color

ive tried indy silver and sprint white. it made the colors look slimey and blotchy. kinda hard to explain other than it just didnt look quite right

Last edited by NeXt559; 09-20-2009 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:30 PM   #7
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Without the backer, black or otherwise the color came out just like I wanted it. If the only reason for the backer coat is to bring out a specific color I guess I'll leave my paint job just like it is. Again, it's the exact color I wanted. Thanks for the info... Next body I'll know better.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:47 PM   #8
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OK, let me explain this

Painting with Rattle cans is a different effect than with airbrushes. More compressed gas and less paint. But you still need to do the light test to see if your coating is on thick enough. many times someone can paint a shell and not add enough of a color. holding your shell to the sun light and looking at it from the inside out will show you where your paint may be blotchy or not well covered. when ever you paint a shell with lighter colors, inorder for them to pop you need to back those with a white or silver (metallic or not). darker colors you back with whatever, But the main issue that most people have when ever they do a shell is not realizing that you should as a rule of thumb paint dark colors first and then go down the spektrum. There are a TON of how to vids on youtube from several body companies as well. I am pretty sure Parma and proline have one to name a few. Anyways, another common mistake is not taking your time to allow colors to cure up. If you throw a color and back it without allowing the other coat to dry well, yes you will have blotchy or smeared color in your paint. So take your time and paint it and allow each coat to dry between coats. There is no reason why you cant have a good looking rattle can paint job. Finally if you care about having the shell last awhile and the paint survive. paint the inside of the shell rustoleum paint. A couple of nice coats should do it well. let it dry fro and hour and then cut the shell as desired.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:51 PM   #9
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You can also read this. which is a rattle can walk through write up I did.
http://www.beatyourtruck.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=58112
I thought I reposted it here but maybe not. I wrote this awhile ago for BYT so for now check it out there and later on i will repost it here eventually.
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