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Old 11-04-2009, 09:27 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by team3six View Post
as you can see on my website for the tutorial on how to care for your airbrush, youll see when I clean out my airbrush i use an injection irrigator syringe. you may think your airbrush is clean but i can tell you how many times I have come across a tiny piece of gummed up paint stuck on the inside wall of the venturi or tip. Mine is a prooven method and works if you do it properly.
im gunna second that. i only started painting a few weeks ago but after looking over his site... it was a whole new world
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:10 AM   #22
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I'm not a big fan of Faskolor myself.....and I paint alot of stuff, not just RC cars. With waterbased paints, you really gotta get your air pressure set right, use multiple light coats, and make sure the paint is thinned correctly. Test panels are your freind.
I use AutoAir alot and find it'll "fisheye" easily if sprayed too thick....and it's not oil in the air doing it.
Solvent based paints are much more forgiving.
And as Team3six said....make sure your airbrush is CLEAN, as it doesn't take much to affect the small orifices in 'em.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:30 AM   #23
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Do you have a pat catans by you ,i use their paint calles createx paint water sol. And it has many colors
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:35 AM   #24
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Do you have a pat catans by you ,i use their paint calles createx paint water sol. And it has many colors
Its the same stuff...
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:36 AM   #25
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Just remember, Im not just here to sell paint jobs! I purchased a star because I want to support this site and sell what I can when I can. I have no problem with paying it forward with what I have learned over the years. Jeesh im 41 years old and I cant paint forever,lol. but I sure can do my best to help along anyone who wants to learn.

As anyone can testify to this who has been doing it for awhile, Its A LOT of work to paint a shell and pull it off. Even now there are times that something gets messed up that is out of my control.

Just yesterday I must of said a half dozen times, WTF! when using my airbrush only to find out that it wasnt me or the brush to begin with.

and if anyone is washing their shells with that fragrance soap, DONT! It doesnt work and leaves a residue on the shell.

Plain ole dishwashing soap works the best. You dont need gloves, you dont need special devices to handle the shell and the quicky techniques dont help get the job done better.

Some people ask why my shells take as long as they do, It's because I do everything from start to finish by hand. Not saying my method is better, but I am comfortable knowing when my product goes out, it goes out how it should be. And if I am not happy, then I'll do it over!

No matter if your using water based or laquer based paint. Time and patience is always the key to a good final product.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:39 AM   #26
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Its the same stuff...
yeah alot of people dont realize that Createx and Faskolor is the same stuff with different color choices.

Faskolor is one of my reps and they claim its not the same, but I beg to differ. there is another paint as well in Hobby Lobby's in the art asile that is the same and its only $2.00 a bottle, not as many colors but it is the same stuff by another manufacturer
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:04 AM   #27
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Yea ,i know their all the same ...i have also used a paint called auto-air it is probably the same too,but you can clear coat over it
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:08 AM   #28
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Use a aerosol glass cleaner on the body right before you paint.
Fish eyes are from a contaminated painting surface. The glass cleaner has ammonia's and such that help dissolve them.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:10 AM   #29
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Yea ,i know their all the same ...i have also used a paint called auto-air it is probably the same too,but you can clear coat over it
That is good stuff. Thats all I ever use.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:11 AM   #30
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It cost a little money but good stuff
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:16 AM   #31
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Is the Craftsman compressor your using an oil compressor or oilless? Its not a good idea to use an oil compressor because there will always be oil to get into the tank. Two moisture traps is the way to go as well as two regulators. One at the tank and one about 10 feet from the airbrush. The one at the tank should be set to 50 or so and then use the one closer to the gun to fine tune. Thats if you are using a bigger compressor though. I use a 33 gallon oil free Craftsman and it works fine as long as you don't let it run while you are painting. If you do you get pulses all through your paint. I just let it build then piant with it off. With that size tank I can spray for at least 2 hours before I need to start it up again.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:17 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by team3six View Post

As anyone can testify to this who has been doing it for awhile, Its A LOT of work to paint a shell and pull it off. Even now there are times that something gets messed up that is out of my control.
There's always "issues" that come up when custom painting, it's the experienced guys who can hide/fix/solve problems and still pull off a nice job.
There's some talented painter's here for sure.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by AlmstEvil665 View Post
Is the Craftsman compressor your using an oil compressor or oilless? Its not a good idea to use an oil compressor because there will always be oil to get into the tank. Two moisture traps is the way to go as well as two regulators. One at the tank and one about 10 feet from the airbrush. The one at the tank should be set to 50 or so and then use the one closer to the gun to fine tune. Thats if you are using a bigger compressor though. I use a 33 gallon oil free Craftsman and it works fine as long as you don't let it run while you are painting. If you do you get pulses all through your paint. I just let it build then piant with it off. With that size tank I can spray for at least 2 hours before I need to start it up again.

I double checked when I went back down to the shop.It's an oil lubricated.
I guess it's time to buy the proper dedicated compressor.Any suggestions?
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:34 PM   #34
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That's probably 90% of your problem right there if not all of it. There really is no way to keep that oil residue out of your airbrush even with moisture traps. Get a compressor thats either made for airbrushing or get an oil free compressor. Like I said I use a 33 gallon vertical tank Craftsman oil free. Not ideal but its what I have and works fine. I just let it build and set for an hour before I paint. I always drain the tank before to get all the water out. I regulate the air at 50 psi at the tank and then use another regulator at the gun. I only have one moisture trap now but need a second. With a big tank like that you can paint for 2 hours maybe more or less depending on the psi your spraying. Makes it nice so you can listen to the radio and not a compressor run. Oh and I know this goes without saying but clean that airbrush really really good.

You might be ok with the oil compressor if you put a moisture trap on the tank then use a new hose from the tank out to your work station to another regulator and moisture trap. Use a standard 3/8's hose for that. Then from that hose go down to your standard size airbrush hose. Then run and inline trap on your airbrush hose.
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:52 PM   #35
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Yea, I bet the oil is killing you. I have painted about half a dozen bodies all with faskolor. I loved the way it lays down. I run about 40 psi thru a badger anthem.

Norm's (team3six) website is a godsend to all new painters. I bet I have read the dang thing 4 times top to bottom lol. It has really helped me tune up my equipment. Now if I could just cut straight and stop shaking I'd be alright lol

Last edited by addictedtonitro; 11-04-2009 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:15 PM   #36
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I double checked when I went back down to the shop.It's an oil lubricated.
I guess it's time to buy the proper dedicated compressor.Any suggestions?

I paint with my shop air compressor, an 80 gallon I-R, oil lubricated...oil in the lines is never an issue. I run two water traps right at the comp.
You can get disposable oil/water traps that go inline between the hose and gun if you need additional filtration.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:46 PM   #37
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If you want advice on everything including the compressor. read the airbrushing 101 on my website. Its all youll need for a compressor for under $70.00
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:08 PM   #38
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from what i've gathered regular createx was designed for doing tshirts... then they came out with auto air... i think this brand has adhesion promotors and flex agents in it and faskolor is just rebaged auto air...

i know i couldnt ever tell a diffrence between the two(faskolor and auto air) and would interchange them on a regular basis.. but all my t-shirt freinds would just spray straight createx but switch to auto air when they did bikes or what ever else how ever i never did any experiments to test adhesion and flexablity of the createx compaired to the auto air to see if they did infact change the formula

i really need to call the manufacture and get a straight story!

the crafstmen compressors are great if you dont mind the noise.. plus the extra cfm they flow is good for the larger guns and any air tools you may be inclined to use
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