Every time
 

Every time I try to use Faskolor I have issues.Anybody else have a problem with it?
Today I went to paint a body and it looked like a combination of fisheye and crap in the paint.I washed the body good and used latex gloves when applying the paint masks.I was using a BRAND NEW Iwata airbrush so I don't think that was the problem.I've had the same kind of issues with a different airbrush in the past.I've used Pactra paints before and the only problems I had were operator errors:oops:.
I guess I just wanted to see if anyone has the same problems and any advice I might be able to get.
I washed the body out and got most of the paint out,so do you guys think I'll have a problem if I switch to the Pactra?

theres some talk in this thread about faskolor

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...light=airbrush

I have issues with Faskolor in the past and don't use it your not the Lone Ranger. People swear by it but I find Pactra much more reliable to bad I love the colors?

Yeah.That's my problem,I like the colors.I guess it's time to go back to Pactra.

Faskolor can be moody at times. I always keep some around, but my paint of choice is Spazstix.

I have some of that too.:)
Do you think it will be a problem if I use that on this body?I got about 95% of the paint off.Just can't get to it in a few spots.Not enough room.

There might be something on the gloves that keeps them from sticking together that is messing with the paint. Have you tried not using the gloves?

I've never had any problems with Fastcolor/Createx paints. I fill the sink with warm water and dish soap, dunk the body in the water, and scrub the crap out of the inside of the body with a scotchbrite pad.

I use spaz and Faskolor on the same bodies all the time. I've never had a problem using the two together.

In the past I did it without the gloves,still had problems.
I've just never had this many problems with other types of paint.

I find it best to use many THIN coats, and I usually spray at a higher PSI than normal.

Go to thick and that stuff will bite you, it will peel, pop, and cloud faster than you can blink.

I keep a hair drier close by too...

I may be way off but could it be a issue with the air source that is screwing with the paint?

Good point. I assume you're using a good moisture trap?

and you should have a descent amount of line like 5-10 feet before your water trap. the compressor tends to heat up the air as it compresses it and hot air holds the moisture better than cool air. so if you give it a little bit to cool down before it hits the moisture trap it helps a bunch. otherwise the moisture can make it past the moisture trap and cool down in the air line. this is more important with the stand "airbrush" compressor because they dont have the holding tank allowing the air to cool down on its own. i had this problem a ton with my old iwata compressor, i went to a crafstman compressor with a 3 gallon tank and havent had the problem since

Hey Pat, the fisheyes are from laying the paint down too thick. Many light coats is better than a couple of heavy coats...

Amen brotha.

I would be intrested in seeing what your doing in a vid to see what the issue is. BTW I just brush the masking on. why bother with airbrushing it all your getting is air trapped under the masking

Listen to these two guys.. They know what they are talking about

Have you ever tried AutoAir by Createx? I use the Pactra paint but hate the clean up. The only water based paint I have sprayed on a lexan body is Tamiya. I only use if for fine detail though. I have been to some airbrush classes and seen AutoAir in action and man is that stuff awesome. If you screen up let it soak in a tub of water for a few days and the paint is all gone. As soon as fund allow I am going to get an Iwata Revolution TR-1 and start messing with the AutoAir.

You sad you were using a brand new airbrush. I know they don't use any type of oil during assembly because that would be just plain silly but did you clean it good before the first use? Might have been some residue of some type in there you never know. Also do you prime your brush with some thinner before you spray? In your case with the Faskolor a little amonia(windex) in the barrel first to get it ready?

I have a Craftsman compressor with a moisture trap.It's mounted to the compressor since the unit has to be portable.I don't have a dedicated painting area due to space.I usually have to do my painting at work.
I tried to lay it on thin.I also didn't think to clean the brush before the first use.
I guess I'll play with it a little more on a different body and see if I can get better results.It's just like I said before.It's happened to me with different airbrushes and different air sources.I just think that Faskolor doesn't like me.:cry:

might want to get an in-line moisture trap too, maybe even one that is connected directly onto the airbrush itself.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/gr/pas/pasmt.jpg

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel...01_400X400.jpg

i mainly work w/ laquer based paints so keeping water out is a necesity

also what alot of people dont realize is with any paint water based or not, you should mix it up good. if it has been setteling for a bit, then your going to have seperation.

transparent colors will seperate more often even when atomized, a nice light coat dry and repeat.

If its dry out side chances are its dry inside. even if you dont hink it is! humidifiers is the resolve. sure you need a moisture trap on your hose if you dont have one, but you also dont need it so dry that everything is sticking to the shell before you even paint on it.

dont use anything to clean out your gun when working with waterbased paints. Hot water is the best resolve. as long as you make it a pratice to clean the nozzle after every use and dont assemble it right away. allow the air to help dry it out. as you can see on my website for the tutorial on how to care for your airbrush, youll see when I clean out my airbrush i use an injection irrigator syringe. you may think your airbrush is clean but i can tell you how many times I have come across a tiny piece of gummed up paint stuck on the inside wall of the venturi or tip. Mine is a prooven method and works if you do it properly.