Styrene How To
 

Hey. I recently started a project to make a Willys CJ3a for my scx10 and i am useing styrene to rebuild it. I noticed in other picture threads, guys' cuts are really clean and sharp. I just used a grinding wheel to cut the plastic of the body im using and it is a lilttle bit sloppy. i have to lengthen it w/ styrene. Do you guys have any better techniques or tools to use for getting cleaner cuts?

Nylon sewing thread works best. You draw the line you want... notch your starting point with an exacto knife... and then run the string back and forth on your lines.
As for the styrene, use a Sharp exacto blade and a steel rule. Score your line a few times or more depending on the thickness of the styrene and snap the peice along the line on an edge of a table.
I always make my mock up peices out of poster board and tape them together until I get the desired look.

great. thanks for the input. it's a big help

also wen joining two pieces together dont be affraid to leave some extra overlapping the edges. its easier to sand them smooth then try and make them flush.

when building things like fuel cells or bed boxes i tend to do this. then take a sharpie and mark the low side. when your sanding the excess down the sharpie helps show you when its flush and prevents you from sanding to far.

and dont rush your glue, it will cure its strongest over night.

what kind of glue do people use? super glue, ca glue, plastic model glue?

Awwww, Chuck dickwad. So nice of you to contribute and point that out to me :flipoff:.
You win a cookie, now how about you contribute to something on these forums besides commenting on everything with nothing to do with tech and getting under other peoples skin. Yes I did happen to look into your account! it would be sad to see you banned because you have nothing to add to the forums but hate and discontent.

I use Tenax 7, But you want to use any type of plastic glue. The mixture is made to weaken the cell structure of the plastic to a soft compound and when it dries it is in its normal state again and joined together. Its much easier than most people think, It just looks hard to do. I would have to say the hardest part is just getting the pieces sanded & shaped after everything is said and done.

[QUOTE=team3six;2518606] Awwww, Chuck dickwad.



lmao, chuck dickwad.... good one for sure! :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:

sweet thanks guys.

at first i was like i can use help with this, oh da^^ that queer again:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lm ao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao ::lmao::lmao:
punctuate that!

wuuut?

:lmao: Fawking, Chuck...
There are four misspelled words (they are the wrong words, actually, the spellings are correct; I'd wager it was auto-correct gone wrong). I'd hardly call that a literary mess. I'll give you an 'A' for effort but a 'D' for your knowledge base and overall execution. Thanks for the momentary comic relief, Charles.


Be sure to post up some progress pictures, Martinez! There's a bunch of us that would like to dabble in styrene, I'm sure, but just need a little bump to get started and see that it's not rocket science! :mrgreen:

Ive been using a brand called Proweld, works the same way as Tenax and have had very good luck with it. I will say though I have switched to Tenax 7, it seems to cure quicker then the other and lets me get more done before I start sanding and shaping.

Ive also tried the Proweld non toxic labeled stuff and wasnt very impressed with it. It seems to just be a watered down version and takes longer to set. thought Id add that incase anyone gos to try it, not one I will try again.

thanks lots, the nylon string worked like you said. and yes, i am using the proweld stuff to for my willys project.

wait, so you're saying not to use proweld? i haven't opened mine yet, should i return it?