RCCrawler Forums

BAXTER · 06-21-2011, 07:40 PM

Do you guys scuff your bodys before paint or not? I've been doing a little research for when I get ready to paint a body and have been finding mixed results. Some say yes most deffinetly while others say it's not necessary.

Which is better?

CRAIGB · 06-21-2011, 07:51 PM

I did, used a white 3m scuff pad since its the less aggressive. I figured any more aggressive would show in the plastic.

BAXTER · 06-21-2011, 08:19 PM

I'm guessing you just lightly scuffed it? I have seen guys scuff the body until it looks kinda foggy on the inside.

2JSC · 06-21-2011, 08:25 PM

I use 3M #000 Synthetic Steel Wool.. works great.

BAXTER · 06-21-2011, 08:28 PM

Its gonna be my first paint job so I know it's not gonna be great looking anyways, but I don't want it to look like a first grader did it either. I guess it will be a trial and error thing.

Rockthrasher · 06-21-2011, 08:57 PM

I never scuff any of mine. I use Spazstix Pre prep in an aerosol can, stuff works great.http://www.spazstix.com/xcart/Surfac...astic-Aerosol/
You can also clean them with warm soapy water and rinse, then let dry.

CRAIGB · 06-21-2011, 09:36 PM

Yes I just lightly scuffed mine. I figured if it was to stick it needed it.

caci623 · 06-24-2011, 04:23 PM

the first 6 months I painted I scuffed them. For the last 4 years I haven't scuffed a body. For me it's an unnecessary step in the body prep. I haven't had a single complaint about the paint holding up.
caci

MnRockCrawler · 06-24-2011, 10:06 PM

I used one of those double sides sponge/scrub sponge things used for washing dishes and dish soap. Ive been using this method for close to 10 years and have yet to have a complaint or have any of my paint flake, crack etc..

Manning · 06-25-2011, 04:33 PM

I use a green scotchbrite pad to scuff prior to painting all my bodies with water based paint (createx/parma). The only time I've ever had paint come off is on a body I paid big bucks to someone else to paint. Paint started flaking off the first time I ran it. Asked the guy if he scuffed it before painting, he said no.......

I think scuffing is absolutely necessary if you use water based paint. Laquer seems to stick a bunch better.

TexasSP · 06-25-2011, 08:07 PM

Well, so far the two pro painters who have posted say don't scuff. So, I would say follow their advice since they both paint bodies for money.

I have never scuffed my bodies personally. When using a rattle can I start with very light coats and always wash and dry the body before painting.

caci623 · 06-27-2011, 05:08 PM

Here's a little more info that might be helpful.
First Acrylic or water based paints...createx and parma faskolor, want to adhere to it's self not necessarily plastic. If you spray your first layer to THICK, the paint will form a "skin" of dry paint on the outer side of paint. As the inner paint dries it will adhere to it's self and much less likely to adhere to the plastic. If you apply a THIN coat first, just a "dusting", it will dry and attach to the plastic because it isn't thick enough to create an outer skin. the second coating of paint will adhere to the first layer as it wants to adhere to it's self. You eliminate any possible problem by apply a thin coat and wait a minute for it to dry.
Second, Lacquers, Enamels etc. These paints can have a chemical reaction to the plastic during the drying, bonding process. No need to scuff the body as these paints tend to "burn into" the plastic. these paints can dry or "flash" much faster than acrylics so you have to be careful not to hold the air brush or spray can to far away from the plastic. These paints can literally flash in the air, hitting the plastic dry, which would cause chipping etc. This happens usually when your painting out side in the heat of summer.
The only problem with scuffing a body is if you are painting with any transparent or translucent color and back it with white or mirror chrome, you'll probably see the scuff marks
hope this helps
caci623

rockpayne · 10-20-2011, 05:33 PM

I have been painting my own lexan rc bodies and those of friends for over 28 years and I have found that if you wash the body in warm water and mild soap (dawn) then dry it, mask the windows then wash again and scuff with scotchbrite ultrafine while you wash, excellent results no matter what paint you use. But, as said before, thin coats! Hope this helps.

asc6000 · 10-21-2011, 07:53 AM

I'm with caci623 on this, Iv'e painted hundreds of bodies over the last 25 years and with proper paint and technique there is no need to scuff. If you scuff the body and enter a concourse competition you won't be looked at twice.
Practice on the scrap you cut off, light first coat (this also seals the mask so you don't get bleed under the mask), let it cure well, shoot a couple more light coats. There are tons of paint options, search rctechs paint section and it will blow you away. It's not a crawler but here is my newest paint job, never did anything like this before but I like it and will do more.

Rustoleum self etching primer for metal on the outside of the body.....
every rc looks better with a driver

asian195 · 11-03-2011, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caci623

Here's a little more info that might be helpful.
First Acrylic or water based paints...createx and parma faskolor, want to adhere to it's self not necessarily plastic. If you spray your first layer to THICK, the paint will form a "skin" of dry paint on the outer side of paint. As the inner paint dries it will adhere to it's self and much less likely to adhere to the plastic. If you apply a THIN coat first, just a "dusting", it will dry and attach to the plastic because it isn't thick enough to create an outer skin. the second coating of paint will adhere to the first layer as it wants to adhere to it's self. You eliminate any possible problem by apply a thin coat and wait a minute for it to dry.
Second, Lacquers, Enamels etc. These paints can have a chemical reaction to the plastic during the drying, bonding process. No need to scuff the body as these paints tend to "burn into" the plastic. these paints can dry or "flash" much faster than acrylics so you have to be careful not to hold the air brush or spray can to far away from the plastic. These paints can literally flash in the air, hitting the plastic dry, which would cause chipping etc. This happens usually when your painting out side in the heat of summer.
The only problem with scuffing a body is if you are painting with any transparent or translucent color and back it with white or mirror chrome, you'll probably see the scuff marks
hope this helps
caci623

this makes a lot of sense for me now. painted my XR10 body, i know i put too thick of a first coat, had some small runs. nothing i was too worried about, (cause i suck at painting in general). after all my coats were done and dried. i reamed out my body holes, and the paint started to peel off the lexan around the holes. then the body posts scratched the paint around the holes even more. and i did not scuff (didnt even know about scuffing). this was my 3rd body ive painted. My 2nd body came out great as i took my time. Kinda got anxious as i really wanted my XR10 done.

Mr.JayDeeM · 11-07-2011, 06:36 PM

Don't mean to hijack thread but I have the same question and did not want to make a new thread. I work in a body shop and have access to paint and what not. Will a primer then scuff be fine for lexan bodies? I plan to paint it with PPG base and clear. Also this will be painted on the outside and silver on the inside for damage scale look.

06-21-2011, 07:40 PM	#1
BAXTER Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 64	Scuff or no scuff Do you guys scuff your bodys before paint or not? I've been doing a little research for when I get ready to paint a body and have been finding mixed results. Some say yes most deffinetly while others say it's not necessary. Which is better?

06-24-2011, 04:23 PM	#8
caci623 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Glendale,AZ Posts: 333	scuff the first 6 months I painted I scuffed them. For the last 4 years I haven't scuffed a body. For me it's an unnecessary step in the body prep. I haven't had a single complaint about the paint holding up. caci

06-27-2011, 05:08 PM	#12
caci623 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Glendale,AZ Posts: 333	details Here's a little more info that might be helpful. First Acrylic or water based paints...createx and parma faskolor, want to adhere to it's self not necessarily plastic. If you spray your first layer to THICK, the paint will form a "skin" of dry paint on the outer side of paint. As the inner paint dries it will adhere to it's self and much less likely to adhere to the plastic. If you apply a THIN coat first, just a "dusting", it will dry and attach to the plastic because it isn't thick enough to create an outer skin. the second coating of paint will adhere to the first layer as it wants to adhere to it's self. You eliminate any possible problem by apply a thin coat and wait a minute for it to dry. Second, Lacquers, Enamels etc. These paints can have a chemical reaction to the plastic during the drying, bonding process. No need to scuff the body as these paints tend to "burn into" the plastic. these paints can dry or "flash" much faster than acrylics so you have to be careful not to hold the air brush or spray can to far away from the plastic. These paints can literally flash in the air, hitting the plastic dry, which would cause chipping etc. This happens usually when your painting out side in the heat of summer. The only problem with scuffing a body is if you are painting with any transparent or translucent color and back it with white or mirror chrome, you'll probably see the scuff marks hope this helps caci623

10-21-2011, 07:53 AM	#14
asc6000 Newbie Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: boise Posts: 12	I'm with caci623 on this, Iv'e painted hundreds of bodies over the last 25 years and with proper paint and technique there is no need to scuff. If you scuff the body and enter a concourse competition you won't be looked at twice. Practice on the scrap you cut off, light first coat (this also seals the mask so you don't get bleed under the mask), let it cure well, shoot a couple more light coats. There are tons of paint options, search rctechs paint section and it will blow you away. It's not a crawler but here is my newest paint job, never did anything like this before but I like it and will do more. Rustoleum self etching primer for metal on the outside of the body..... every rc looks better with a driver Last edited by asc6000; 10-21-2011 at 07:56 AM.

06-21-2011, 07:51 PM	#2
CRAIGB Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Mid TN Posts: 417	I did, used a white 3m scuff pad since its the less aggressive. I figured any more aggressive would show in the plastic.

06-21-2011, 08:19 PM	#3
BAXTER Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 64	I'm guessing you just lightly scuffed it? I have seen guys scuff the body until it looks kinda foggy on the inside.

06-21-2011, 08:25 PM	#4
2JSC I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: FOUR 8 OH Posts: 4,913	I use 3M #000 Synthetic Steel Wool.. works great.

06-21-2011, 08:28 PM	#5
BAXTER Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Kentucky Posts: 64	Its gonna be my first paint job so I know it's not gonna be great looking anyways, but I don't want it to look like a first grader did it either. I guess it will be a trial and error thing.

06-21-2011, 08:57 PM	#6
Rockthrasher RCC Paint & Graphics Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Wauseon, OH. Posts: 2,017	I never scuff any of mine. I use Spazstix Pre prep in an aerosol can, stuff works great.http://www.spazstix.com/xcart/Surfac...astic-Aerosol/ You can also clean them with warm soapy water and rinse, then let dry.

06-21-2011, 09:36 PM	#7
CRAIGB Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Mid TN Posts: 417	Yes I just lightly scuffed mine. I figured if it was to stick it needed it.

06-24-2011, 10:06 PM	#9
MnRockCrawler Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Minnesota Posts: 247	I used one of those double sides sponge/scrub sponge things used for washing dishes and dish soap. Ive been using this method for close to 10 years and have yet to have a complaint or have any of my paint flake, crack etc..

06-25-2011, 04:33 PM	#10
Manning RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lowell, Arkansas Posts: 1,307	I use a green scotchbrite pad to scuff prior to painting all my bodies with water based paint (createx/parma). The only time I've ever had paint come off is on a body I paid big bucks to someone else to paint. Paint started flaking off the first time I ran it. Asked the guy if he scuffed it before painting, he said no....... I think scuffing is absolutely necessary if you use water based paint. Laquer seems to stick a bunch better.

06-25-2011, 08:07 PM	#11
TexasSP RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Tyler, TX Posts: 1,619	Well, so far the two pro painters who have posted say don't scuff. So, I would say follow their advice since they both paint bodies for money. I have never scuffed my bodies personally. When using a rattle can I start with very light coats and always wash and dry the body before painting.

10-20-2011, 05:33 PM	#13
rockpayne Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: North Crawlolina Posts: 716	I have been painting my own lexan rc bodies and those of friends for over 28 years and I have found that if you wash the body in warm water and mild soap (dawn) then dry it, mask the windows then wash again and scuff with scotchbrite ultrafine while you wash, excellent results no matter what paint you use. But, as said before, thin coats! Hope this helps.

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11-07-2011, 06:36 PM	#16
Mr.JayDeeM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Roanoke, Va Posts: 205	Don't mean to hijack thread but I have the same question and did not want to make a new thread. I work in a body shop and have access to paint and what not. Will a primer then scuff be fine for lexan bodies? I plan to paint it with PPG base and clear. Also this will be painted on the outside and silver on the inside for damage scale look.

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