Styrene strength??

[The Jimmy James]

Im converting a couple f350s into an excusion and bronco. Ive never used styrene before. Ive searched the forums and cant find an answer.

Question is, what thickness should I use and do I need to make an interior cage in case of rollover? Any help is welcome.

[french_connection]

I just stretched a NB hard body using 1.5mm styrene piece with a 0.75mm oversized backplate. Its very sturdy, I dont know how thin you can go with styrene but I did not want to be the one figuring this out.

The 1.5mm ended up the thickness of the original hard body so it make my life easier as far as surface joints blending.

[sickcivic95]

The correct size is .60 styrene that's equal to tamiyas body's. I've done several crew cabs and modifications using that size. Just back your cuts with additional pieces and you should be fine as long as your using the correct "bonding" agents which basically melts them together, and not just using ca glue.

Use bondene or tenax7r for styrene to styrene then add additional glue like ca or shoo goo for the best adhesion and strength.

--Dan

[french_connection]

you mean 0.60" as in 1.5mm right?

[Hoosierdady]

.60 is good go to size. I prefer .40 and Ill double it up where needed. Its easy to work with and you can make gradual curves in it by just using your fingers. He nailed it on adhesives. I use medium thickness CA glue, Bondene or Tenax 7r and follow it up with a thin layer of ShooGoo. DO NOT use Shoogoo between two layers of styrene (such as on a roof) if will pull and wrinkle once the ShooGoo cures. The bad part is it takes a couple of days for you to even notice it.

[sickcivic95]

Hoosier is on top of his game,lol. I've also learned the hard way with shoo goo between panels.. Nothing like a days worth of sanding and 2nd coat of primer before noticing the "shoreline" in the roof......

.40 is my preferred for detail areas and curves but solid panels I just stick with the .60 just add a bit of heat and you can contour it just as easily. You'll find little techniques that work for you but may not for others. It can be a bit scary or nerve racking at first but in all honesty it's probably one of the easiest medians to work with in modeling. Way easier than brass and aluminum and way way way more forgiving..... Just remember to have fun with it and its only plastic easily repairable and replaceable.



--Dan

[The Jimmy James]

Thanks for the info yall. Waiting on bodies and gonna stock up on styrene.
Im sure I will end up doing it a couple times. But practice makes perfect right.

[AX10wannabe]

i've never used it before either but im making an f350 crew cab shortbox.. i got the bodies cut then figured i should build something (tool box, cooler etc) simple before i start gluing styrene to my bodies.. so i started building a cooler just for the hell of it one night.. i found out its easy to work with, easy sanding and cutting... i went for the .40 for my CC build and it can easily be cut with regular old scissors

just got the roof glued in a couple nights ago and i'll toss up some pics tonights for ya.

[Phins Fan]

Hoosierdady is a guy you should do a search on when building with styrene. If anyone in this thread should be listened too its him. Ive subscribed to tons of his threads when he builds and am still amazed by what he can make

[AX10wannabe]

this is what .40 plain styrene looks like on a f350