☆ The Chop Shop What Glue to Use For Body Work/Repairing Cracks in Plastic and Why ☆

[snapon boy]

Sho goo and a few small hobby rivets is what I use

Form the old leather shoppe

[4508js]

So the shoe goo won't hurt the paint ? Do you just leave the rivets exposed ?

[snapon boy]

The sho goo can wrinkle the paint if you don't prep well. I sand my bodies with red automotive scotch and clean with spaxx body prep. I haven't had it happen to me but I know it can. I put the rivets In a location that looks cool if possible.

Form the old leather shoppe

[snapon boy]

If you read to posts above it talks in depth about shoo goo and paint.

Form the old leather shoppe

[Hoosierdady]

Originally Posted by 4508js

I just ordered an Axial Jeep NuKizer body kit, what would you suggest to use to attach the grill and bumpers ? Sorry I know you probably get tired of answering these questions but I'm totally new to the RC world in general

Nope, never tired of it bub . You can use Shoogoo to attach those items but I would do the following...

Lightly scuff the area that the glue will be touching prior to paint. Make sure to use light coats of paint on those areas until you have coverage. You want to only use a thin smear of ShooGoo to hold the pieces on. You can secure them to the body with masking tape until the glue cures. If you use a thick layer of glue or don't lightly scuff the area prior to paint it will more than likely pull the paint from the lexan and cause a wrinkle effect to show up in the finish.

FYI- Shoogoo will shrink when it is fully cured, that's why it pulls the paint or plastic and causes the wrinkling. Using a thin layer and scuffing the surface before paint ensures that the paint doesn't get pulled away from the surface once the Shoogoo cures.

[WesTX]

OK, just want to confirm. Hardbody work. Shoe goo the butt weld, back it up with some styrene overlapping the joint and use the Tenax to bond the styrene to the overlapping joint?

Sound right?

Wes

[Hoosierdady]

Originally Posted by WesTX

OK, just want to confirm. Hardbody work. Shoe goo the butt weld, back it up with some styrene overlapping the joint and use the Tenax to bond the styrene to the overlapping joint?

Sound right?

Wes

Close. PM inbound.

[spoo76]

I'm definitely no expert, but shoegoo for hard body butt weld? I thought a butt weld on a hard body would be better with a glue that melts the parts together and shoegoo was best for lexan to lexan or lexan to abs? I haven't read this thread in a long time, maybe I should re read it lol

[waw]

just stumble upon this "glue" thread.. greatly appreciated...

and (the glues) just readily available where I live (indonesia)
-shoe goo
-goop
-E6000

looking forward in learning many new tricks for RC

[neilus]

Originally Posted by Hoosierdady

I follow up with the CA glue. Cover the seam, but don't soak it down with glue. I usually will cover 1/4" on each side of the seam. I basically just go back and forth down the crack/joint and then press a strip of styrene in place for strength. Once that has setup with either time or insta-cure I will cover the styrene with ShooGoo "thumbsup

Can i just ask why you use ca glue to hold the strip on the back rathet than bondene? Surely bondene would melt the edges together? Thanks.

[Hoosierdady]

Originally Posted by neilus

Can i just ask why you use ca glue to hold the strip on the back rathet than bondene? Surely bondene would melt the edges together? Thanks.

Bondene would over time, I guess you could clamp it or just hold it for a while. But I prefer to use CA glue so I can move on to other parts of the build.

[neilus]

Thanks for the reply. I did wonder if it was just to speed it up.

[jsarwar469]

For filling in minor holes / cracks in the body, would you say JB weld is a good option? Correct me if I'm wrong, but it can be sanded and painted.