Buffing Compound ????

[geeps]

Yo i was just wondering does any one use any buffing compound on their stock clod bodies for their scale rigs ?? I`m in the process of building a crewcab and i want the body to look pristine, I`ve painted numerous lexan bodies and they look great but i want my hard body to look the same !!! Thanks for any help you can offer

[damion289]

Originally Posted by geeps

Yo i was ujst wondering does any one use any buffing compound on their stock clod bodies for their scale rigs ?? I`m in the process of building a crewcab and i want the body to look pristine, I`ve painted numerous lexan bodies and they look great but i want my hard body to look the same !!! Thanks for any help you can offer

If you mean once the bodie is painted what you should do is use a nice clearcoat if that's the way you're going. If before you put that on you can see some small imperfections you need to wet sand it. Go get some different wet papers. Start with about 320 prob. Be careful on the edges not to go through that paint or you'll have to start over. Work up to about 1200 then clear. Then do the same to the clear. Then you can use a light swirl remover if you need to and then a light hand buffing and it'll shine. I've been painting for about 20 years now so I can help you out if you need.

[geeps]

I figured i need a clear coat but do you just use the stuff in a aerosol can ??

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by geeps

I figured i need a clear coat but do you just use the stuff in a aerosol can ??

if you want it to look PEREFCT... take it to a body shop and have them clear it. Aerosol will work; but may have a bit more orange peel and fish eyes. I guess you can wetsand and buff it after you are done. My recc. is a body shop- I would not see more than 25.00 for the job.

matt
cincy

[rockwerks]

Originally Posted by mrpink

if you want it to look PEREFCT... take it to a body shop and have them clear it. Aerosol will work; but may have a bit more orange peel and fish eyes. I guess you can wetsand and buff it after you are done. My recc. is a body shop- I would not see more than 25.00 for the job.

matt
cincy

you cna do a perfect paintjob on a scale rig with spray can no problems....Ive done it hundreds of times........remember no moving air, spray temps between 70* and 80* for best results and laydown. first coat is very, very light. next coat colors the body and 3 coat is your final coat

[geeps]

1 more thing i`m going to be using my trusty old PAASCHE air brush, and i`m wanting a dark blue, can you recommend one, if you think i need to use a spraycan what kind ???? I really appreciate the quick response and the help guys !! THANKS

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by rockwerks

you cna do a perfect paintjob on a scale rig with spray can no problems....Ive done it hundreds of times........remember no moving air, spray temps between 70* and 80* for best results and laydown. first coat is very, very light. next coat colors the body and 3 coat is your final coat

I was talking about clearcoat on the outside of the body.

matt
cincy

[mr.maxx]

You could try this...

[rockwerks]

Originally Posted by mrpink

I was talking about clearcoat on the outside of the body.

matt
cincy

anyone can buy clearcoat in a can.....and its not needed anyway.........

[maxboostbusa]

There are some problems with sanding plastic then painting that you may not know about. First if the body is molded in color and you sand it with a coarse sand paper it CAN cause the sand scratches to swell up and become larger and a real pain to get rid of. The solvents in the paints cause this in some plastics. Spray cans would be worse at this since it uses fast reducer and has a large amount in it. Back a few years ago when spraycans were still laquer based it dried so fast that the thinner didnt have enough time to react, but enamal reducer is a totally different beast. For clear if you want a body shop to spray it you will probibly get a price of 50 bucks or more depending on the paint brand they shoot. PPG clear is just over 325 a gallon with activator. You can go to a autobody supply place that sells paint and get a spray can of jam or cut-in clear. Its basically the same clear in the gallons. Fast drying urethane so its more scratch resistant, and super shiny. Also remember not to sand a metalic or pearl paint before you clear it, the sanding will make the flake all blotchy looking. I have painted for 9 years everything from old cars to show trucks to 40K custom built choppers, so its just my 2 pennys.