Rattle can rust colored paint?

[jshultz78]

Soon as i can get my hands on a clear cherokee body, I'm wanting to do rust on the inside, silver then topcoat on the outside, so scratches will show bare metal, and deeper ones will show rust, but I can't find any brown rattle can lexan paint, Would the tamiya copper, backed with black be close enough?

Also, using the lexan silver, would that act as a "primer" to use normal krylon paint on the outside? or would I still need rc paint for the topcoat?

[durok]

Seems to me you've been reading some threads on doing it right!

I have seen those layers recommended as well as the mention of Lexan paint against the body, other layers of other types.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by jshultz78

Soon as i can get my hands on a clear cherokee body, I'm wanting to do rust on the inside, silver then topcoat on the outside, so scratches will show bare metal, and deeper ones will show rust, but I can't find any brown rattle can lexan paint, Would the tamiya copper, backed with black be close enough?

Also, using the lexan silver, would that act as a "primer" to use normal krylon paint on the outside? or would I still need rc paint for the topcoat?

Yes on both counts

[jshultz78]

Just curious, what brand of paint are you guys using? Ive mainly used pactra in the past, but they don't offer a copper like tamiya. And I've read about and seen pics of the tamiya paint flaking off in chunks. Granted I'll end up scuffing the body with a scotchbrite pad before I paint, maybe that'll help it stick better Just like a 1:1 car

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by jshultz78

Just curious, what brand of paint are you guys using? Ive mainly used pactra in the past, but they don't offer a copper like tamiya. And I've read about and seen pics of the tamiya paint flaking off in chunks. Granted I'll end up scuffing the body with a scotchbrite pad before I paint, maybe that'll help it stick better Just like a 1:1 car

Like any lexan body, wash with a mild soap, I use Dawn, and let it dry thoroughly before applying the paint, usually overnight. Apply the paint in light coats, maybe 3-4 minutes between coats, until you get to the desired depth of color you want. I use Tamiya for the base coat, on both the inside and outside, so copper first on the inside, silver first on the outside. I've never had issues with the Tamiya paints, just make sure the humidity where you're painting isn't too high. If you're in a high humidity atmosphere, give yourself a minute or two more time between coats, or use a fan to suck out the air where you're spraying. Also, don't use lacquer based paints. The chemical composition of lacquer paint will reactivate the other types of paint and ruin your paint job. Krylon and Testor's are enamels, and make sure the Tamiya paints are completely dry before overcoating with the other paints.

I've sprayed my 50's panel and my camo wroncho with this method, and beat the snot out of them, and I can't get the paint to scratch. The panel was final painted in Krylon chalkboard green, and the wroncho camo colors came from Krylon and Testor's.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by jshultz78

Soon as i can get my hands on a clear cherokee body, I'm wanting to do rust on the inside, silver then topcoat on the outside, so scratches will show bare metal, and deeper ones will show rust, but I can't find any brown rattle can lexan paint, Would the tamiya copper, backed with black be close enough?

Also, using the lexan silver, would that act as a "primer" to use normal krylon paint on the outside? or would I still need rc paint for the topcoat?

You should really watch some of the videos on youtube from "scalewarmachines". Not that you are doing anything wrong, just that there are so many great techniques to add scale realism you might find some usable information.