Automotive paint and lexan bodies?

[skyjockey]

If I wanted to use the actual auto paint to match my real truck will this mess up the clear body?

Could I spray the interior with Lexan specific clear then auto paint over that?

[Ninomaniac]

it'll flake off.

[Jim85IROC]

It could get complicated. You would need to use a lexan paint as a base coat for the automotive paint to adhere to. As far as I know, most lexan paints are lacquer, and an automotive urethane paint can eat into certain lacquers and make them lift, so I think you may need a sealer coat to separate them. Additionally, you'd need to wait for the lexan paint to fully cure and finish outgassing, and then it would need to be sanded for the urethane/sealer to adhere. That sealer coat, and the subsequent automotive paint would both need flex additives in order for them to remain flexible.

[dr frankenstyle]

It partly depends on how rough you expect to get with the body. I painted my Pro-Street truck (Vaterra F-100 clear body) with rattle can lacquer and automotive enamel from the auto-parts store. The only trouble I had was that I painted the enamel first, and only gave it about a day and a half to cure. Even then the lacquer only bled under the enamel just a little at the mask line. If I had shot the lacquer first, then given it 3 or 4 days to cure, it would have been fine. Maybe even if I'd let the enamel cure longer. Anyway, It's here in the "non-crawler" section. It'll be 2 years in a month or so, and it's still doin' fine. It doesn't get "beat up" but it's been driven. It gets the normal flexing when you pull and replace the body, so ....
if you're not too rough on it, custom color is nice.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by skyjockey

If I wanted to use the actual auto paint to match my real truck will this mess up the clear body?

Could I spray the interior with Lexan specific clear then auto paint over that?

Yes. Use a Tamiya PS-55 paint against the lexan first, 12 -24 hour cure depending on humidity, then spray with the paint of your choice. Most automotive paints are enamels, so you shouldn't have any flaking. I can't vouch for lacquers because my experience with lacquers is the chemical composition reactivates an enamel or acrylic, even when given time to cure, and ruins the paint job.

Jim85IROC, polystyrene(lexan) paints are acrylics. They are water soluble until dry, then they become water resistant, but remain flexible.

Lacquer paints are oil based, very durable when dry, but doesn't mix with acrylics or enamels.

[Hal]

In my personal experiance autmotive paint has worked with very little problems and many more color choices. With the advent of all the new body materials paints must stick to plastics, metals, both aluminum and steel, fiberglass and more. Its all in the prep an choosing the right paint. I have used a clear flex agent sprayed on or mixed with the paint to allow it to bend with the body. Mosly I just sprayed on with a airbrush. I think a clear "lexan" paint would also be a good adhesion layer put on before the color. I am by no means a "painter" it would be best to talk to a paint guy as this industry changes so quickly. I mean most paints on new cars are water based with all the chemical issues that laquer and oil base paint have. Research research research. Good luck

[skyjockey]

Before I trash a body I should take pieces of the trimmed lexan and experiment

[robobray]

If the body is prepped correctly it will work fine. It would need to cleaned with hot soapy water first, then sanded with a gray scotch-brite pad and a sanding paste with water. After that process you would clean it again in preparation for paint. You would then need to apply an adhesion promoter for plastic first followed by your base color and then a clear. I would suggest using a flex agent as well. if you follow the correct process it will work better than any rattle can paint out there but it will also cost about 10 times more.

[Mike Flea]

If you're spraying on the inside, wash with a mild detergent like Dawn and rinse in cold water to get rid of the release agent, dry thoroughly, I let my bodies sit for 24 hrs before painting, because there's always the chance you'll miss some liquid in a crevice or a corner of the body which will ruin your paint job. Some guys scuff the inside with a green pad or 400 grit sandpaper. I don't, it's just something else to rinse off again. Don't forget to use your window masks!

Definitely do a test spray on a piece of scrap lexan, especially if this is your first time. Take your time, be patient, looking forward to seeing your finished body



Something to tuck into the back of your mind...IF, for some reason you do screw up, it's not the end of the world. Use Dot 4 brake fluid to clean off the paint, and start over again, thoroughly washing, rinsing, drying, and re-apply.

[BJoe]

What brand is your 1/1? I've used Chrysler Crystal Black and Jeep Moss Green on lexan before and they both have worked great. I do recommend scuffing then cleaning the inside of the body before you shoot.

[Shinchu]

Just be careful with scuffing, if you go to hard it will make the body cloudy.

As for paint.. ehhh you can try with all the great advice but it seems like way to much work for a "maybe".
But dont let me scare you away from it. I think your idea of using scraps is excellent.

Good luck!

[mikemcE]

Just saw this.
HOK makes a product called adherto use this before spraying automotive paints like HOK

[skyjockey]

Originally Posted by BJoe

What brand is your 1/1? I've used Chrysler Crystal Black and Jeep Moss Green on lexan before and they both have worked great. I do recommend scuffing then cleaning the inside of the body before you shoot.

2012 RAM,
I was thinking of buying the touchup spray can. If it's inside the lexan then I wouldn't need the gloss top coat and would be a lot less work and $$$ than spraying from a quart can

[Rickshire]

I have used automotive paint on lexan bodies for years and have never had a flaking problem .. the Key to Using automotive paint is getting the release agent off the plastic prior to paint , Auto body supply companies sell a solvent for this .. after you wipe it down really good with that solvent and get the release agent off then apply a adhesion promoter "Bull dog" then paint it using base coat .. I will not flake off ..

[truckbob]

Originally Posted by Rickshire

I have used automotive paint on lexan bodies for years and have never had a flaking problem .. the Key to Using automotive paint is getting the release agent off the plastic prior to paint , Auto body supply companies sell a solvent for this .. after you wipe it down really good with that solvent and get the release agent off then apply a adhesion promoter "Bull dog" then paint it using base coat .. I will not flake off ..

Yes! Finally.Just now saw this and this guy is correct.Thick enamel is to heavy you want the body to be as light as possible. The whole process should only take 15- 20 minutes and your done. Good luck