Matte Orange

[mulchman]

What would be a good matte orange to paint the outside of a lean body. Looking cor as close to UT orange as I can get.
Would the krylon fusion work or is there a different paint that would adhere better?

Thanks for any and all help.
Wayne

[durok]

I'd use Tamiya PS-62 Pure Orange, from the inside if you are doing a Lexan body - or outside if the inside is already painted - then hit the exterior with Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear:



(scuff the body with a Scotchbrite pad first)

[svt923]

Pick a different color, anything wearing the UT colors is just going to fall apart and fail when it matters most. Congrats on going 4-8 in your upcoming comp season.

Sincerely,

-An Auburn alumni coming in for an unnecessary cheap shot.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by mulchman

What would be a good matte orange to paint the outside of a lean body. Looking cor as close to UT orange as I can get.
Would the krylon fusion work or is there a different paint that would adhere better?

Thanks for any and all help.
Wayne

I don't think you understand lexan. Adhesion isnt as much or a problem as flexibility. You can get most paints to adhere to lexan either chemically or mechanically. However as it flexes it causes the paint to flake or chip off.


Krylon, and other rattle cans will definitely flake off.


You will notice that most paints for lexan are acrylics, that is because of its flexibility.


The lack of hardness is what stops the chipping, but at the same time makes it easier to scratch.


Are you trying to reuse a body or are you trying to get a matte finish?


If it is a matte finish, there are a few ways to paint inside of lexan, then apply effects to the outside to obtain a matte looking finish. It is the best of both.

[jwalker]

I have used Krylon, Valspar and Rustoleum that works with plastic on the outside of many body. I like using an adhesion promoter before I spray the body and works great. But Tamiya has a matte clear you can spray on the outside if you want the Tamiya orange on the inside and not scratch off the orange.

[Jim85IROC]

If you're painting it on the outside of the body, any lexan paint may have enough of a matte finish to please you. None of the lexan paints are glossy.

Another option that I would consider if I were you, is to paint it on the inside like you normally would, and then scuff the outside of the body with a scotchbrite pad or fine sandpaper to get your matte finish. This will be much more durable in the long run.

A third option would be to spray the inside of the body, and then use the matte clear on the outside. It's not as good as the scotchbrite trick, but at least where you mess up the body, it'll still be orange, and since that part will be messed up, it won't be glossy anyway.

[durok]

RTR Chevy Ascender body - Before and after shooting black backing from inside, black hood from outside, and matte clear from outside (obviously, it had seen some use in between!):

[smog]

I did as has been already suggested here. I sprayed the outside of my stock Orange F100 Ascender with flat clear to tone it down a bit. It worked quite well.

[Tralfaz Blecht]

I paint lexan on the outside so that it WILL get scratched up. I like trail rash on my rigs. I first paint the inside with silver so that when the paint wears down to the lexan, it looks like bare metal and it won't go any further than that. I then hit the silver from the inside with black. Then I paint the outside with a reddish brown or plain brown color for the primer/rust layer. This will show first when you scratch your chosen color. Then paint on your chosen color, orange in this case. The more your truck gets scuffed, the more weathered it will look... Unless that is not what you want to do.

[mulchman]

Sorry for not clarifying. Working doubles is weari g me out. I am painting the outside of a silver axial jeep. Tralfaz, that is the effect I am after. Thanks everyone for the help. The end result will be matte orange with matte black decals that my daughter is going to make for me on her decal cutter.
Again thanks everyone for the help.

Wayne

[mulchman]

SVT923, your sentiments are verifiable. I don't watch much sports. But, my daughter graduated their medical program and is now a doctor thanks to them.
And it was either orange or lime green. Haha

Wayne

[durok]

I may live in Austin, and even went for a few semesters to UT - but I'm not beholden to any sporting team or color therefrom...

(all I like are some forms of motorsports)

That being said, my brother and his wife have degrees from there and are full-on Longhorns (embarrassingly so!).

Orange is a cool color, though!

(definitely better than lime green)

I like olive green, and aircraft grey, and desert tan.

[mulchman]

Durok , the color you picked is goi g to be the one I go with. Again, thanks for the help.

Wayne

[Ironhide13]

Originally Posted by Tralfaz Blecht

I paint lexan on the outside so that it WILL get scratched up. I like trail rash on my rigs. I first paint the inside with silver so that when the paint wears down to the lexan, it looks like bare metal and it won't go any further than that. I then hit the silver from the inside with black. Then I paint the outside with a reddish brown or plain brown color for the primer/rust layer. This will show first when you scratch your chosen color. Then paint on your chosen color, orange in this case. The more your truck gets scuffed, the more weathered it will look... Unless that is not what you want to do.

I (mistakenly) had a paint job similar to this that I thought worked quite well. I had first tried a dark metallic red on the inside of my original KJ body, but it came out with a few mistakes in the paint. Frustrated, changing my mind on the color, and not wanting to spend days scrubbing it off with brake fluid, I sprayed the outside with a layer of PS silver, and then my new choice of TS-46 Light Sand. Using a Lexan friendly silver for a primer helped the Light Sand stick through many hits and roll overs.
It was unintentional, but this paint layer scheme gives me light scratches show up as silver/bare metal and deeper scratches as a dark red/rust effect.

[durok]

VERY interesting coincidence - ARRMA just released a new stunt truck called the "Notorious" and they have pre-painted it in a unique (for a RTR mfg, of course) fashion - they've submitted a patent for it and call it "Real Steel":

REAL STEEL*
ARRMA's REAL STEEL* effect offers fantastic realism to your NOTORIOUS 6S bodyshell. Any damage to the paintwork reveals the REAL STEEL* effect beneath. The more scratched and scarred your NOTORIOUS 6S gets, the more amazing it will look.

*Patent Pending

https://www.arrma-rc.com/notorious/

[smog]

^ hard to imagine that gimmick crushing the market, though I wouldn't mind seeing more RTR's with exterior paint jobs.