Removing Traxxas Bronco Decals?

[Brickman]

Im turning my Traxxas TRX-4 Bronco into a police Bronco, but I need to remove the red decals on the lower half of the body. I tried peeling one corner but it is on there good, and the tailgate trim sticker tore.

Anyone had any luck removing those decals?

I plan on painting the cap and doors white and print some clear backed Sheriff stickers, call 911, etc.

Also would painting the exterior with lexan/polycarb paint hold? Im pretty easy on my crawlers, mostly mud, dirt, tree trunks, and broken concrete.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by Brickman

Im turning my Traxxas TRX-4 Bronco into a police Bronco, but I need to remove the red decals on the lower half of the body. I tried peeling one corner but it is on there good, and the tailgate trim sticker tore.

Anyone had any luck removing those decals?

I plan on painting the cap and doors white and print some clear backed Sheriff stickers, call 911, etc.

Also would painting the exterior with lexan/polycarb paint hold? Im pretty easy on my crawlers, mostly mud, dirt, tree trunks, and broken concrete.

I can't help you with decal removal, but yes you can paint the exterior with PS paints, and it does stay on fairly well.

Just remember to prep the body after you've used whatever you used to remove the decals and remaining glue... wash well with a mild detergent, I recommend Dawn. Some guys scuff the surface with a green pad, and wash again, dry thoroughly.

When I do exterior painting on lexan, I'll do a Tamiya silver or copper first, that way if the top coat gets scratched, it looks like bare metal or rust.

On the final color coat, I'll usually do 2 or 3 coats, and then let it cure for a week before running it.

You mention you're easy on your crawlers, yet mud, dirt, tree trunks and broken concrete are the most abrasive surfaces there are.

[high plains drifter]

If you heat up the body it should help with decal removal but I wouldn't use a heat gun. Maybe use a hairdryer, let it sit in direct sunlight for a while, etc. Mine came off easily but I've had to remove some VERY stubborn stickers and adhesives before. Working the decal back and forth slowly as you lift up can also help to get more of it off in one piece. Eventually you'll be able to get em off although guaranteed there will be some residue left. Masking tape sometimes works well to pull off the residual adhesive but I've also used wd40 with good results. I also find that using an xacto knife to CAREFULLY lift up the edges of the decal can really help. Just make sure not to scratch up the body.

[Brickman]

Originally Posted by high plains drifter

If you heat up the body it should help with decal removal but I wouldn't use a heat gun. Maybe use a hairdryer, let it sit in direct sunlight for a while, etc. Mine came off easily but I've had to remove some VERY stubborn stickers and adhesives before. Working the decal back and forth slowly as you lift up can also help to get more of it off in one piece. Eventually you'll be able to get em off although guaranteed there will be some residue left. Masking tape sometimes works well to pull off the residual adhesive but I've also used wd40 with good results. I also find that using an xacto knife to CAREFULLY lift up the edges of the decal can really help. Just make sure not to scratch up the body.

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

I can't help you with decal removal, but yes you can paint the exterior with PS paints, and it does stay on fairly well.

Just remember to prep the body after you've used whatever you used to remove the decals and remaining glue... wash well with a mild detergent, I recommend Dawn. Some guys scuff the surface with a green pad, and wash again, dry thoroughly.

When I do exterior painting on lexan, I'll do a Tamiya silver or copper first, that way if the top coat gets scratched, it looks like bare metal or rust.

On the final color coat, I'll usually do 2 or 3 coats, and then let it cure for a week before running it.

You mention you're easy on your crawlers, yet mud, dirt, tree trunks and broken concrete are the most abrasive surfaces there are.

Great idea with the silver backing. It will help the white stand out more too.

(the underside is a bit beat up, but I rarely roll over to scratch the body)


Hairdryer and starting it off with a razor blade worked perfect! I only have a couple tiny areas that left residue and kinda gouged the tailgate, but the spare tire covers most of the area.

[BACK40]

Easiest way is to buy the clear body and paint it and keep the original for bashing or shelf duty

[mewalsh100]

Heat will definitely be key. Go over an area with a hair dryer, low to medium setting. Get it fairly warm and then get a corner lifted. Once you've got a good corner piece to hold, keep applying heat as you pull and the decal should come up without leaving too much adhesive behind. Where it does leave adhesive, use some goo-gone of rubbing alcohol to remove the residue.

[Brickman]

Originally Posted by BACK40

Easiest way is to buy the clear body and paint it and keep the original for bashing or shelf duty

Not easy on the wallet

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Heat will definitely be key. Go over an area with a hair dryer, low to medium setting. Get it fairly warm and then get a corner lifted. Once you've got a good corner piece to hold, keep applying heat as you pull and the decal should come up without leaving too much adhesive behind. Where it does leave adhesive, use some goo-gone of rubbing alcohol to remove the residue.

Exactly what I did. Rubbing alcohol removed all the residue.
Got the polycarb paint and using automotive painters tape to tape up the body. Also got a MytrickRC lightbar.

https://www.mytrickrc.com/shop/inter...e-flasher-bar/

It's a perfect fit. Might remove the lens and paint the inside clear red and blue. Give it a old lightbar look. Too bad there aren't any large round rotator lights in 1/10 scale.

[TonyStott]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Heat will definitely be key. Go over an area with a hair dryer, low to medium setting. Get it fairly warm and then get a corner lifted. Once you've got a good corner piece to hold, keep applying heat as you pull and the decal should come up without leaving too much adhesive behind. Where it does leave adhesive, use some goo-gone of rubbing alcohol to remove the residue.

That method worked fine for my TRX-4 decals. I removed any remaining glue using nylon kitchen scrubber with soapy water. And this was on the "Camel Cup" Defender body, which I suspect has an external semi-matt coating over the polycarbonate. Technique should be even easier on "shiny" clear polycarbonate