Securing a lexan body with velcro?

[GTSLOW]

So I've never used Velcro or any clip/posts system to mount bodies before. Could anyone share some tips or tricks on what to use for a lexan body? I've got a body with an interior I'd like to use and would love to go postless!

Thank you.

[Inspector86]

Use some ring magnets like these (see link). Trim the top off the mount posts so they are 1/4" tall. Glue one magnet to the post and the other to the underside of the body. The post inserted into the magnets keeps it all lined up. The problem with velcro is that it wears out over time and velcro gets pretty nasty in mud.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-x-1-4-x...S!-1:rk:2:pf:0

[mikemcE]

I m also gonna say do the ring magnets on the post.
Both lexan bodies .



Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

My tip is - don't do it. Velcro will pull off after time. And sometimes it will pull your nice paint job with it. Same goes for magnets. Posts are still the best in terms of functionality.

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

My tip is - don't do it. Velcro will pull off after time. And sometimes it will pull your nice paint job with it. Same goes for magnets. Posts are still the best in terms of functionality.

I did not think about that! Another option would be to create a hinge mechanism and secure it to the Proline interior then run front body posts.

[mikemcE]

Prep is your key. Shoe goo and lexan work well together. But if you don’t prep correctly for paint it will lift off in a sheet. You need to scuff the CLEAN lexan. Wash, dry, then scuff. This removes all mold release. Then use a paint that chemically bonds to lexan. Then let paint dry and cure.
Then magnets or Velcro. Mine fall and the magnets haven’t failed yet. You must do the clear tape between .
I sorta agree with Jato, but it can be done.


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Prep is your key. Shoe goo and lexan work well together. But if you don’t prep correctly for paint it will lift off in a sheet. You need to scuff the CLEAN lexan. Wash, dry, then scuff. This removes all mold release. Then use a paint that chemically bonds to lexan. Then let paint dry and cure.
Then magnets or Velcro. Mine fall and the magnets haven’t failed yet. You must do the clear tape between .
I sorta agree with Jato, but it can be done.


Hang up and Drive

I wash, scuff then rewash my bodies for painting using dish soap both times. The paint was either Duratrax or Tamiya. Magnets held on by brand name Shoe Goo. Two of my magnets fell off and took paint with them. The spots that peeled were barely larger than the magnet. The other two I couldn't pull off so they're still on the body.

I'm not sure what caused it, but I know it's not worth it, to me, to try again. Body clips are simple and effective. The only time I wish I'd use Velcro or magnets is when I'm taking photos and that is a very small percentage of my day when I'm doing a trail run. I do see others have success with it though.

[nightcrawler48]

Originally Posted by Inspector86

Use some ring magnets like these (see link). Trim the top off the mount posts so they are 1/4" tall. Glue one magnet to the post and the other to the underside of the body. The post inserted into the magnets keeps it all lined up. The problem with velcro is that it wears out over time and velcro gets pretty nasty in mud.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-x-1-4-x...S!-1:rk:2:pf:0

Thanks for the link to the ebay supplier. I have been looking for these but the only ones I could find here in the great white north are $2.50 Canadian FOR 1 MAGNET. Do the math, that's $50 + 12% tax here for 20 magnets!

Originally Posted by mikemcE - You must do the clear tape between.
Mike - can you explain the purpose of the clear tape on top of the magnets please. Thanks.


Hang up and Drive

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I wash, scuff then rewash my bodies for painting using dish soap both times. The paint was either Duratrax or Tamiya. Magnets held on by brand name Shoe Goo. Two of my magnets fell off and took paint with them. The spots that peeled were barely larger than the magnet. The other two I couldn't pull off so they're still on the body.

I'm not sure what caused it, but I know it's not worth it, to me, to try again. Body clips are simple and effective. The only time I wish I'd use Velcro or magnets is when I'm taking photos and that is a very small percentage of my day when I'm doing a trail run. I do see others have success with it though.

Ive had issues with Duratrax a few times. I was told it was not painting in the "window" on my Backer coats. I know from years of shooting Tamiya (TS) lacquers, the recoat window is tight, within a 1/2 hour or wait 48 hours, 72 for clear TS13. When the two coats are dry but not cured, they dont chemically bond.
Ive found a scotch green pad to scuff works best with a bit of soapy water.

I detest clips, so many bodys use a 4mm screw and ProLine caps

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by nightcrawler48

Originally Posted by mikemcE - You must do the clear tape between.
Mike - can you explain the purpose of the clear tape on top of the magnets please. Thanks.


Hang up and Drive

Sure. The clear tape prevents the dry Shoe Goo from sticking to itself. Its explained in this Video.

I put it between when drying overnight, because when I tried the first time without, I pulled one magnet off the body.

After they cured, I covered them with clear tape to keep everything tight


This was the whole post
Bea

[nightcrawler48]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Sure. The clear tape prevents the dry Shoe Goo from sticking to itself. Its explained in this Video.

I put it between when drying overnight, because when I tried the first time without, I pulled one magnet off the body.

After they cured, I covered them with clear tape to keep everything tight


This was the whole post
Bea

Got it now. Thanks Mike.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Ive had issues with Duratrax a few times. I was told it was not painting in the "window" on my Backer coats. I know from years of shooting Tamiya (TS) lacquers, the recoat window is tight, within a 1/2 hour or wait 48 hours, 72 for clear TS13. When the two coats are dry but not cured, they dont chemically bond.
Ive found a scotch green pad to scuff works best with a bit of soapy water.

I detest clips, so many bodys use a 4mm screw and ProLine caps

I usually paint a coat, set my phone timer for 10 or 15 minutes and then I paint again.