2 part crawling body Have an Element Enduro I'd like to order the Proline Toyota Hilux cab/bed for. https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...wb-p-pro346600 I'm new to crawlers and have only dealt with one-piece bodies up to this point on my RCs. The Enduro stock body has two plastic strips inside that screw the cab and bed pieces together. How exactly does one put the cab and bed "together" with the proline body? Do you just shoe goo them together or do the two pieces fit together if cut properly and mounting holes cut in the appropriate place? Wouldn't that rattle like heck while crawling as well? Tips, tricks, and info greatly appreciated! :ror: |
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1985 Toyota HiLux SR5 Clear Cab (1 pc) 1985 Toyota HiLux SR5 Clear Bed (1 pc) Window Masks Detailed Decal Sheet Or am I supposed to re-use the hardware from the Element stock body? |
Re: 2 part crawling body I forget what they provide, I used 4 M3's some nuts and washers though a strip to spread out the load is a great idea. E6000 might work well too if you get a good wide spread though you may never get it apart without damaging it. One thing that can really let a 2 piece body down is when its not secured well and the bed flops around. I spread out the mounting holes as far as possible to help keep my bed rigid, its done a pretty good job of keeping it rigid when mounted up. You can see the 4 SS screws in this pic. The 2 upper holes end up in the drop bed slot so its pretty tight in there but I wanted these as high as possible. Make sure you dont drill through the outside of the bed. https://i.imgur.com/P3tyzbil.jpg I drilled out both the cab and bed at the same time to keep the holes nicely aligned, once you have 1 hole drilled run a screw though it to help you hold it in place. |
Re: 2 part crawling body Why not take an untrimmed 1 pc. body that you like, build a divider panel to separate the body into pieces where YOU need the split, mix what is called water putty and then pour separate molds, bed and cab. Splice and blend molds to get 4 doors.... long bed.........Then add body lines or details to make it custom to you and your application, taking relief angles into consideration (so you can remove parts from the mold) and then draw your own pieces, FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY!!!!!. .040 lexan is cheap, and there are a variety of ways to do your own vacuum forming. Pre-heating (correct temp to draw the material ((take your pick, each has its blessings and faults- lexan/polycarbonate, PET, hi impact styrene)) on the mold) the material is the hardest part of the process. |
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If I remember, Proline includes a couple of screws and nuts. I cut some strips of styrene, drilled and screwed like the stock Enduro mounting plates Hang up and Drive |
Re: 2 part crawling body Thanks guys. I guess I'll figure it out when I get it but I should be okay with the tips given. :) @Mac Fab I would prefer a 1 piece and I specifically want a toyota body as I had a 1987 ways back and a 2003 tacoma that I totalled in bad weather about 2 years ago. :ror: Unfortunately noone makes a 1 piece toyota body that I can find except hard bodies that cost more than $100, and I can't justify that for an rc body atm. Quote:
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Re: 2 part crawling body Here’s the current mounting. If you look you can see the holes I originally used to mount. The current nuts/bolts are 1/2 of the original, but the cage secures them better, I shoe gooed the cage to the back, seems to hold up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a149f9ac3b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...faac942b20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7f819621a.jpg Hang up and Drive |
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I think thats largely due to the Sendero body itself being flimsy and thin so even before its mounted its got a lot of flex, the Proline body pieces are pretty rigid really. |
Re: 2 part crawling body Yeah the Sendero body is SUPER thin and crappy. Probably the only thing about associated products i don't care for. My little 11/14 scale Reflex 14t had the same issue. Again, thanks for all the tips guys. Ordered the body today. :) |
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