Paint that stick on other paints???

[Frank211]

Can brand A paint stick onto brand B paint?

Example, can i use tamiya clear, 1st im spraying onto the body, then hit it with a krylon paint, so that's why im asking if brand a paint can stick onto brand b paint? Is it gonns work?

[Panther6834]

If it's all Lexan paint, then yes. It's no different than putting brand A oil in your car, even though it was previously filled with brand B oil, as long as they're the same type of oil (ie. don't recommend mixing reg oil & synthetic oil, any more than mixing paint designed for ABS plastic with paint designed for Lexan.

~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[lonleycreeper]

On this truck...

I used Parma polycarbonate paint then sprayed over it with Rustoleum Metallic...

[mikemcE]

The trick with lexan is to have the initial coat bite into the surface. Then almost any other paint can be used.
However if applied too thick , it can crack off the base. I use PS55 as a primer, then most lacquers bond well.
Parma or ProLine also will work as a base.


Hang up and Drive

[Panther6834]

And, if Pro-Line will work, then Created will also work, since Pro-Line paint is just Createx paint.

~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[LincolnofDeath]

FWIW, here’s an example of Duratrax black and silver polycarbonate/lexan paint over Rustoleum John Deer Green that was on there for a month. I’d sanded/roughed it with 400 grit. There’s some gatoring where the two paints interacted. The reaction was immediate and has otherwise cured well.

So you’re seeing is a lexan specific over Rustoleum. Not terrible here, maybe even cool for a weathered effect, but would have sucked if it was all over, like the main body’s Duratrax Competition Orange. That went very well externally, over the unfinished gray of an Element Sendero. Again, 400 grit scuffing.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

The trick with lexan is to have the initial coat bite into the surface. Then almost any other paint can be used.
However if applied too thick , it can crack off the base. I use PS55 as a primer, then most lacquers bond well.
Parma or ProLine also will work as a base.


Hang up and Drive

Right on the money !!

[indybama]

I used tamiya clear then rustoleum without issue

Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

[LincolnofDeath]

mikemcE—-“The trick with lexan is to have the initial coat bite into the surface. Then almost any other paint can be used.
However if applied too thick , it can crack off the base. I use PS55 as a primer, then most lacquers bond well.”


Been wondering about this for a minute, thanks. Being able to use non-hobby grade backers in white, black and silver is gonna help a lot. I’d used Rustoleum and Krylon before as backers to good effect. It was interesting to see the chemicals react when reversing the base coat.

[Rockin140]

Originally Posted by LincolnofDeath

mikemcE—-“The trick with lexan is to have the initial coat bite into the surface. Then almost any other paint can be used.
However if applied too thick , it can crack off the base. I use PS55 as a primer, then most lacquers bond well.”


Been wondering about this for a minute, thanks. Being able to use non-hobby grade backers in white, black and silver is gonna help a lot. I’d used Rustoleum and Krylon before as backers to good effect. It was interesting to see the chemicals react when reversing the base coat.

Painted PS-62 Orange in three very light coats. Backed with PS-1 White using two light coats. Didn't want to see white through the wheel-wells. Final backer using black Rustoleum Sandable Primer caused crazing everywhere. Crazing looks as if it effected into the white only. Sprayed on a coat of black Flex Seal to cover crazing and entire inside. So far so good after six hours. However, the crazing is noticeable from outside as a darker shade of the PS-12 Orange. Not standout noticeable, but noticeable to me. I don't think a second coat will take away the darker crazing/ shades of orange. Thoughts? I'll see if I can get pic's up.

Oh well...another learning experience!

[Rockin140]

P.S. Before backing with Rustoleum, I let the orange cure 24 hours and the white cure over 48 hours.

[mikemcE]

Different solvent bases affect others. Rustoleum is a hot solvent. Tamiya TS lacquer re coat window is 72 hours.
I’ve mixed many different bases, but it is not an exact science. The base must be cured not just dry.


Hang up and Drive

[LincolnofDeath]

I’m interested and yes on the pics if you can get them working. And I’m the guy talking about “gatoring” on his orange truck above, BTW, which I’m guessing is “crazing”—-called it gator because the pattern was pretty geometrically similar to alligator skin in the reaction. Lol, kind of exactly like on my house and 2000 F-150.

In my painting example it was the other way around, Tamiya paint over Rustoleum, on the exterior. And that caused the pattern reaction. Ironically, it’s almost a perfectly scale weathering effect, but it wouldn’t be awesome on an entire truck. But I already said all this earlier, doh.

Are you happy with how it turned out, overall? I’m curious to see how it turned out. And if you thought it’s just a matter now of lexan being too shiny, there’s a thread up here yesterday with Durok posting a couple examples of matte exteriors that change that up pretty well.
Peace!

[Voodoobrew]

Pitbull adhesion promoter, I hear this let's you paint regilar spray paint on lexan. Haven't tried it myself yet.

Also lexan model paints have a finer nozzle for thinner more even coats. Probably worth the extra cost if you are picky.


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[Rockin140]

Crazing, gatoring - probably same thing. Looks like tiny lightning bolts! I'm working on learning posting pic's.


Not done yet but I think I'll be happy when complete. The crazing I can see from the outside is very faint. It's going to get beat up anyway!


Saw the matte thread. Searched the heck out of using something cheaper as a base. Figured I might as well save where I can. Even had an unopened can of Tamiya black! Though something weird happened w/ the Rustoleum. This was a brand new can I had in stock. I was pretty much done, and on the last 'quick shot' it just stop spraying. No sputter or spitting like when a can gets near empty - just nothing. Tried another nozzel and still nothing. Never experience that before and I've used Rustoleum spray for a lot of other things. Oh - and it went on fine w/o crazing. But after drying for maybe five minutes it started crazing.



Anyway, ya, I thought 'how can I use this on something else'?! It is kinda cool!

[Rockin140]

https://photos.google.com/search/_tr...OrmvB-KuxRDeUD


https://photos.google.com/search/_tr...nngT9Q8iwMWR_R


https://photos.google.com/search/_tr...Zcr3_TM9g6qyf7






Hmmm...

[Rockin140]

Bought a star! We got pic's!!!



In first pic the crazing isn't very noticeable.
Second pic, looking closer, you can see the crazing at base of windshield.
Third pic shows crazing low and forward of wheel well.

This even after backing with black Flex Seal which is relatively thick. I think what it did, since the crazing 'thinned' the white backing undercoat, darkened the orange vs not where crazed having a solid white backing and a second black backing. Make sense?


Not only for ease of adding pic's, the knowledge base here is superb - and friendly!!! Well worth the price

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

The trick with lexan is to have the initial coat bite into the surface. Then almost any other paint can be used.
However if applied too thick , it can crack off the base. I use PS55 as a primer, then most lacquers bond well.
Parma or ProLine also will work as a base.


Hang up and Drive

mike is on the money here. That said, I have found that certain paints just do not get along, owing mainly to their respective chemical compositions I suppose. For instance, you shoot the body first with pc/lexan clear for your base. The you shoot a Krylon Red enamel for your color. Lastly, you decide to back it with a Lacquer based White because that’s what you have on hand. In this instance, everything is going to chip and flake if you so much as look at the body wrong.