How to make plastic body look less plasticky?

[No2Mud]

Just ordered a RedCat Scout. At some point, I'm sure I'll do a fairly extensive weathering/patina/rust look. But first, I'd like to knock the shiny plastic look down a bit. Got any suggestions for making a new plastic body look more like a sorta old, sorta normal truck?



Looks like it's about to be trailered to a car show

[HumboldtEF]

Spray it with a flat clear or scuff it up. You'll need one or the other to get good results weathering it. I did a test without scuffing or a flat clear and the smooth surface makes it impossible to get good results, the wash just beads up and pulls away.

[No2Mud]

I'll start with scuffing it up. What do you recommend - something like 1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper or a red or green ScotchBrite?

Thanks!

[No2Mud]

I tried a few materials to scuff the body of never-started model...
- 1000 wet/dry paper
- 1500 wet/dry paper
- 0 steel wool
- 000 steel wool
... the 000 steel wool was definitely the right level of scuff - knocked down the shine but left no visible lines. Also, the steel wool (any steel wool) is just easier/better for contours and details.

I used a very sharp center punch and deepened/sharpened the details - shut lines, molding, etc. - to better hold paint.

With the shine gone, I played around with the Vallejo black "wash"... not impressed. Maybe I'm not using it for its intended purpose. It's just so thin that any wiping removes 90-100% of the paint. I wish the Vallejo started thicker and let the user add water as needed. I'll get some pure black and play with that and save the Vallejo wash for other uses, e.g. dirt/grime look


First attempt... (hence the practice body)

[Big Bill]

The washes especially the blacks really add a lot to the weathering of a body. I haven't tried it yet but I will before too long.

[trxrdr17]

I’ve used it but never for this purpose, plastidip clear coat. It’s more like a semi gloss instead of a clear coat. I imagine if it’s applied in a even coat, it could probably be peeled off and resprayed.

[mewalsh100]

For scuffing, I typically use ScotchBrite pads. They knock the shine right off, but don't leave the scratch marks like I've experienced with sand paper.

[JacktheRipper]

Originally Posted by No2Mud

I tried a few materials to scuff the body of never-started model...
- 1000 wet/dry paper
- 1500 wet/dry paper
- 0 steel wool
- 000 steel wool
... the 000 steel wool was definitely the right level of scuff - knocked down the shine but left no visible lines. Also, the steel wool (any steel wool) is just easier/better for contours and details.

I used a very sharp center punch and deepened/sharpened the details - shut lines, molding, etc. - to better hold paint.

With the shine gone, I played around with the Vallejo black "wash"... not impressed. Maybe I'm not using it for its intended purpose. It's just so thin that any wiping removes 90-100% of the paint. I wish the Vallejo started thicker and let the user add water as needed. I'll get some pure black and play with that and save the Vallejo wash for other uses, e.g. dirt/grime look


First attempt... (hence the practice body)

India ink, a note about washes, yes most does get removed. But some stays behind. Let it cure, then wash again, building on what is there. The thinner the wash the more times it needs to be applied

Just saying, wipe back and forth across the body line .

[No2Mud]

Thanks guys. Good call on the multiple washes to get the desired effect... and wiping at a 90 to leave the paint behind.

I moved on to paint and patina on the practice body. Learned a few things. Notably, thinner coats work better. Meaning - not building up the paint via 3-5 layers. This left deep pits when the salt was sanded/knocked off. Could sand it down more of course.

Attempt #1:
Black - Rust - Tan
(before detailing, rusting, wash, etc.)


After some "rust", a dent and some rust and black wash


This takes some (more!) practice for sure. Definitely not ready to tackle the Scout body. I think I'll do the multiple layers of different color paints - dark/black, rust, top color - so natural scratches look more realistic... maybe some edge "fading"... but not the dents and rust.