SLN’s Bruiser Build

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

This is my first ever hardbody build I’ve done, and it’s not even for me lol. I’m doing it for a buddy of mine. He seen my Bronco body and asked if I’d sell it, long story short I said no and he offered to pay me if I built this body for him. So, I decided to give it a shot. I started this a few days ago, this is where I’m at so far. Keep in mind, this is my first time EVER messing with a hardbody, so I’m sure there’s some things I could’ve done differently.

Enjoy the pictures

The first day, I got together a plan for paint and sanded the entire body. I think you can tell where this is going by the paint color choices.




The second day, I bobbed. I would’ve bobbed first, but he said something about it after I had already sanded, so oh well.




So now, I just need to get some putty of some sorts to fill in my gaps from the bed bob, primer, paint and do some smaller things here and there. Oh, and figure out what I’m going to do with this front piece. It’s a very thin and fragile piece of vacuum formed something lol. I don’t know where he got it from, but it looks cool. I need to make a backer plate for it. You can see it in the first picture.

Let me know what y’all think so far!




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Figured out the front valance. I cut a piece of lexan and it’s screwed everything to it and glued the valance onto the lexan. Also got some tabs glued onto the tailgate to re install. Pictures to come soon.




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[lonleycreeper]

My highlift body had a couple screw tabs in the underside of the hood and a small metal bracket to attach the grill/front valance...

Did yours?

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by lonleycreeper

My highlift body had a couple screw tabs in the underside of the hood and a small metal bracket to attach the grill/front valance...

Did yours?

Yes, that’s how I did it.




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[JimInMiami]

Try this for the putty https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-901-Pla.../dp/B0002JM8P4
It's worked well for me on hard plastics and dries pretty fast. It's also easier to apply than regular Bondo cause it's a one-part formula,

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by JimInMiami

Try this for the putty https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-901-Pla.../dp/B0002JM8P4
It's worked well for me on hard plastics and dries pretty fast. It's also easier to apply than regular Bondo cause it's a one-part formula,

Oh thanks man! I actually ended up just using E6000. I know, not the best thing ever but it’s going to be a weathered truck anyway so it doesn’t have to be perfect. Plus, it’s flexible so it should hold fine. I’ve used it on my Lexan bodies and it’s worked great.


What I did was put a line of E6000 all the way down the seam then I took a piece of styrene and scraped it to fill the gap and get rid of all access glue. I’m going to give it all day/night to dry. maybe longer.





_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[JimInMiami]

Let us know how sanding the E6000 goes.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by JimInMiami

Let us know how sanding the E6000 goes.

Will do! I bet it’ll be really fun lol. Good thing though is it’s not super thick.




_________________
79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Started paint on the cab portion since the E6000 needs a while to dry to get maximum boding. I obviously started with Primer, then I went to a metal color(Krylon Metallic Aluminum), then did the rust(Krylon Hammered Copper). It started raining on me so couldn’t do Yellow top coat. The rust color isn’t as close as I thought it would be, but it was the closest color I could find. I think it’ll turn out fine though.









_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Sanding the E6000 went pretty smooth, A lot easier than I thought.
After I primed the bed, I had to fill it in again. Still have to sand it.


The cab is completely done, and I’m pretty happy with it. It did pull the primer off and go down to black in some spots I sanded, but I think it looks good. I was hoping for more metal showing through.









_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Front valance is done. Unfortunately the front grille has a slight slope to it, which drives me crazy. But, I can’t fix it at this point. I don’t want to put more holes in the front valance and it possibly rip. Plus, the holes would be super close together. I think it’ll look fine since it’s not a show truck anyway lol. The picture makes it look a lot worse, I measured it and it’s not even an 1/8” slope.





_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Body is 100% done. I’m pretty happy with it. I think painting on rust colors made it look a lot better.





_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

79 F150 SCX10 ii
TRXWalker

[Speedy-Triple]

great job on this body ... looks to par for an old yota. i will use some of your techniques when i get to the hilux project.

[HumboldtEF]

Nice work!

I know its too late but the best thing for assembling and fusing hardbody parts is an ABS/Styrene solvent. This is not a glue, it actually melts the plastic a bit and allows you to fuse the parts.

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/pls00003s.htm

You can use it to make your own filler too. I take a little glass jar that has a lid (so It doesn't set too fast) and put a bit of the solvent in with some scraps from the body, the scraps will melt down and create a slurry. Then you can use this to fill gaps as if it were bondo.

I hope there aren't any issues with getting that locally.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Nice work!

I know its too late but the best thing for assembling and fusing hardbody parts is an ABS/Styrene solvent. This is not a glue, it actually melts the plastic a bit and allows you to fuse the parts.

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/pls00003s.htm

You can use it to make your own filler too. I take a little glass jar that has a lid (so It doesn't set too fast) and put a bit of the solvent in with some scraps from the body, the scraps will melt down and create a slurry. Then you can use this to fill gaps as if it were bondo.

I hope there aren't any issues with getting that locally.

Originally Posted by Speedy-Triple

great job on this body ... looks to par for an old yota. i will use some of your techniques when i get to the hilux project.

Thanks guys! I’m glad someone seen this thread.

Humboldt, yes, I learned to never use E600 again. I had to fill it 5-6 times to get it smooth. I never had a chance to go into town to see what the local hardware store had, but next time I definitely will. It worked, but having to wait 72 hours for it to get a complete bond, then prime just to find a spot needs smoothed sucks.

As far as getting stuff locally, none of the puttys, paints, fillers, etc can be shipped. I can’t even get glue shipped lol. Whatever Ace/Lowe’s has is what I have to use.


_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

SCX10ii Yota
TRX-4 Bronco

[Jguyett]

Great job, it looks awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OnTheTrail]

Really, really nice job on the body.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by OnTheTrail

Really, really nice job on the body.

Originally Posted by Jguyett

Great job, it looks awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks y’all! This is definitely one of the more proud bodies I’ve done


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk