RCCrawler Forums

NoblesvilleKid · 06-16-2007, 09:51 AM

I have heard that when you are painting a RC body that you are supposed to scuff it with sand paper or a scotch brite pad. I have painted 2 bodies before and have not done this and they are fine.(they were for touring cars) Do you guys do this, does it help the paint stick? Can you see the scratches when you are done painting? Thanks

sicklidz · 06-17-2007, 12:24 AM

Scuff everything with a grey scotch bright pad (~600 grit / extra fine)except what you are painting chrome. You will not see the scratches and it does aid in paint adhesion.

run2jeepn · 06-17-2007, 12:30 AM

I have never sanded any Lexan body before painting. If you use the correct paint you won't have any problems. I've trashed a few bodies and the paint has never peeled or chipped off. If you painting a hard plastic body it's a good idea to scuff it up with a scotch bright pad.

Reflection · 06-17-2007, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M715ForLife

Just make sure it SUPER CLEAN!

It's probably a good idea to clean them like goofy said /\ /\

Me,I'm to lazy when it comes to painting. I just pull them out of the package,mask and paint. I've never washed a body before painting. Not sure if it's just dumb luck or what but I've only had 1 body that paint wouldn't stick to. No need for sanding them.

I've seen guys in the scale side use sanding the lexan for different effects and stuff. Is that what your after?

CO_Alpine · 06-19-2007, 06:54 AM

I found that if you clean them with soap really well you do not need to sand them. also, if you’re going to be doing a lot of different sprays and you have to leave it out for a while you should store it in the bag it came in.
if you leave it outside to dry between sprays you should wash it again as some dust will get in there.

also, I have found that on the areas of a body that may get flex I rub a little shoe-goo on them. adds some strength and holds the paint in place when you hit things (worked wonders for my touring car bodies)

STANG KILLA SS · 06-19-2007, 01:04 PM

i agree ive been painting lexan bodies for 10 years and have never scuffed or sanded one....

sicklidz · 06-19-2007, 03:14 PM

I was only washing the bodies in hot soapy water until I started to mask more detailed designs like this....

when you start painting/masking lines that are 1/16" or smaller, you appreciate all the adhesion you can get!! I designed this in CorelDraw X3 and cut it out on my plotter. Scuffing the bodies opened up a lot of different designes I was scared to do before. I can cut very intricate designes without worrying about how I'm going to get it painted. This design is going on a Brat hood with a desert background for a birthday present. I'll post up pics when it's done.

sicklidz · 06-29-2007, 11:44 PM

As promissed. It's on my TT-01 and the front is all paint. Try and pull off this detail without scuffing and you'll be crying all the way to your LHS for a new body!

tsaun987 · 07-04-2007, 06:32 PM

that is awesome!!! Im from katy also... Know of any good spots to wheel??

cembom · 07-04-2007, 08:02 PM

Yeah I dont scuff lexan but always on plastic. I use a brillo pad or similar in soapy water. I wouldnt use anything alredy with soap I have had it harden and crack off after its painted. So I guess the verdict is that you should wash lexan and scuff plastic.

Mr_Freeze · 07-04-2007, 08:10 PM

I've done a lot of airbrush work and have got away with both methods. On my touring car, the brutal impacts eventually do in all paint jobs. I always wipe the lexan down with rubbing alcohol to ensure no oily spots. And rubbing alcohol actually is a good thinner for water based paints. Just don't breath the fumes ;)

06-16-2007, 09:51 AM	#1
NoblesvilleKid Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Indiana Posts: 265	painting a body I have heard that when you are painting a RC body that you are supposed to scuff it with sand paper or a scotch brite pad. I have painted 2 bodies before and have not done this and they are fine.(they were for touring cars) Do you guys do this, does it help the paint stick? Can you see the scratches when you are done painting? Thanks Last edited by NoblesvilleKid; 06-16-2007 at 08:38 PM.

06-29-2007, 11:44 PM	#8
sicklidz Newbie Join Date: May 2007 Location: Katy Posts: 43	As promissed. It's on my TT-01 and the front is all paint. Try and pull off this detail without scuffing and you'll be crying all the way to your LHS for a new body! Last edited by sicklidz; 07-04-2007 at 08:58 PM.

06-17-2007, 12:24 AM	#2
sicklidz Newbie Join Date: May 2007 Location: Katy Posts: 43	Scuff everything with a grey scotch bright pad (~600 grit / extra fine)except what you are painting chrome. You will not see the scratches and it does aid in paint adhesion.

06-17-2007, 12:30 AM	#3
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I have never sanded any Lexan body before painting. If you use the correct paint you won't have any problems. I've trashed a few bodies and the paint has never peeled or chipped off. If you painting a hard plastic body it's a good idea to scuff it up with a scotch bright pad.

06-19-2007, 06:54 AM	#5
CO_Alpine Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: littleton Posts: 62	I found that if you clean them with soap really well you do not need to sand them. also, if you’re going to be doing a lot of different sprays and you have to leave it out for a while you should store it in the bag it came in. if you leave it outside to dry between sprays you should wash it again as some dust will get in there. also, I have found that on the areas of a body that may get flex I rub a little shoe-goo on them. adds some strength and holds the paint in place when you hit things (worked wonders for my touring car bodies)

06-19-2007, 01:04 PM	#6
STANG KILLA SS ~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX Posts: 10,056	i agree ive been painting lexan bodies for 10 years and have never scuffed or sanded one....

06-19-2007, 03:14 PM	#7
sicklidz Newbie Join Date: May 2007 Location: Katy Posts: 43	I was only washing the bodies in hot soapy water until I started to mask more detailed designs like this.... when you start painting/masking lines that are 1/16" or smaller, you appreciate all the adhesion you can get!! I designed this in CorelDraw X3 and cut it out on my plotter. Scuffing the bodies opened up a lot of different designes I was scared to do before. I can cut very intricate designes without worrying about how I'm going to get it painted. This design is going on a Brat hood with a desert background for a birthday present. I'll post up pics when it's done.

07-04-2007, 06:32 PM	#9
tsaun987 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Katy, TX Posts: 482	that is awesome!!! Im from katy also... Know of any good spots to wheel??

07-04-2007, 08:02 PM	#10
cembom Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Flint/Mt. Morris Posts: 570	Yeah I dont scuff lexan but always on plastic. I use a brillo pad or similar in soapy water. I wouldnt use anything alredy with soap I have had it harden and crack off after its painted. So I guess the verdict is that you should wash lexan and scuff plastic.

07-04-2007, 08:10 PM	#11
Mr_Freeze Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Vancouver Island BC... that's Canada eh Posts: 229	I've done a lot of airbrush work and have got away with both methods. On my touring car, the brutal impacts eventually do in all paint jobs. I always wipe the lexan down with rubbing alcohol to ensure no oily spots. And rubbing alcohol actually is a good thinner for water based paints. Just don't breath the fumes ;)

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