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Thread: Putting sliders on your GRC

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Old 02-02-2008, 07:40 PM   #21
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Great info. I think a how to (like mentioned above) on the proper way to shim the diff would be very helpful to many of us on this forum. Does anyone know if the molds have been more fine tuned?
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:11 AM   #22
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MUCH easier than this...

No need to say, but there was only 1 made.... :-P
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:05 PM   #23
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Well I put this slider setup through the paces this weekend. Everything held up perfectly. There was no binding issues or breakage.

On a side note, I messed around with the shocks and figured out the thicker the oil you put in the GRC12 the better it handles. I put 90wt oil and it works a lot better. It's more stable and very little torque twist.

Last edited by OGmicromonster; 02-12-2008 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:42 PM   #24
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Default Putting sliders on your GRC

What shock springs and pistons are you using OGM? I'm running the 12" kit & I've set it up with stock T/E-Maxx springs and 4" aluminum Traxxas Big Bore shocks. I was hoping to use softer springs, but with the low shock angles you get when mounting the shocks to the stock chassis rails, the stock Maxx springs are too soft and they dont want to bring the chassis back up very well when compressed. I may try some of my stronger aftermarket Maxx springs from my supply, but I hate to get the suspension too stiff. I have drilled extra shock mounting holes in the rails but that hasn't helped either. I've also been considering adding shock towers to make the shock angles more upright and still keep the truck fairly low. I think that would help a lot and I should then be able to use softer springs. I need to try different oil weights and pistons too. I haven't done much experimenting yet, other than adjusting link lengths and shock srings because I just completed the truck.

I'm about to give up on my CVD's too. They are just too sensitive to any changes that I try to make in the suspension setup and end up either binding up on backside of the output cup slots, or else they are not far enough into the cup slots and want to just fall out. With their fixed length, they seem to only work properly with the stock suspension setup, or something very close to it. I'll be watching this discussion very closely to see which of the slider setups works out the best after all is said and done.

I'm really curious to see how this all comes out, and I'll bet a bunch of others are too.

PS: I may also make up a set of aluminum or arrow shaft links to end up with a setup that I'll be really happy with. (Plus they just look better too.)

Last edited by BeeRC; 02-14-2008 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:48 AM   #25
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Here's my setup:

Tamiya 4" shocks with 1 hole piston
90 wt. oil
mounted to the #2 hole (from the rail end)
Tamiya green springs


I've also used:
Tamiya 501x rear shocks with stock springs and 2-hole pistons.
I haven't tried anything heavier than 40wt oil in those, but I'm thinking of switching back and going with 90wt oil in those too.

I have a set of Associated shocks that might work as well. I should try those to see what the setup would be.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:54 PM   #26
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i too got tired of the shock mess so i put my revo shocks back on there with the stock oil, white springs in the rear and yellow in the front it has absolutely no toque twist. i used the aluminum spacers for the orig. shocks to allow me to mount the revo shocks on the outer most holes on the extended chassis. it has 2 3/4 inches of ground clearance and about 60* of flex before a tire lifts. also the front shocks have bigger holes in them than the rear. what ever the factory pistons are is whats in the shocks. i did this cuz i hate not using all of the shocks travel and with the setup i was runnig it wasnt allowing me to reach the trucks full potential.
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