Putting sliders on your GRC

[OGmicromonster]

PART 1
Well, I figured out a way to easily put sliders on any GRC chassis. You only need to buy a few parts.

What you'll need
• Taylor's Hobbies Stealth Diff locker for T4 (B3 diff locker might work but I haven't tried it - Get it here)
• Traxxas long 1/2 shaft pro pack (#1953) You'll need 2 sets for the front and rear, you'll see later one why.
• Traxxas steel yokes (#4628X - two sets)
• JB weld
• Associated TC3 rear input shaft (#3915 - comes w/front input shaft as well)

Step 1: Take your stock spur gear and make the two opposing holes oblong like you see here.




Step 2: Install the stealth diff locker and center as best you can. Make sure your screws are tight. If you use a different spur gear you may be able to drill the other two opposing holes in the spur gear once the diff locker is installed for added support.




Step 3: Since the Original PTI prototype used stealth outdrives, the stock PTI center spool is the same dimensions. So the stealth diff locker fits right in with not modifications to the center bulkheads. Just install and you're done.




Step 4: Install your steel yokes onto the female half of the halfshafts and attach them to your center spools.



That's it for now. I'll try to finish this up in the next day or two and post more photos. The rest is pretty easy and only requires a bit of dremeling and grinding to the Associated rear input shafts.

MORE TO COME...

[jetboat]

Dang it OG, now Im going to have to spend more money!!! Cant wait to see the axle side, thats where I always have a problem.

[K_B]

I'm gonna take a guess and say TC4 input shafts... I must say that I admire how clean everything looked on your comp rig and this is obviously no exception. Certainly beats my "Mad Max" style modifications

[OGmicromonster]

Originally Posted by K_B

I'm gonna take a guess and say TC4 input shafts...

YUP! But the rear ones. You can't use the front ones and grind flat spots on it without weakening the shaft. Where you would need to grind the flats on the shaft is hollow. So I'm going to use rear ones. They'll need to be cut, but the shaft is solid where the flats need to be.

[goobs]

i just took my axles apart thinking i stripped the gears, but i didnt!

so now im waiting on you so i can see how to finish the sliders!

[OGmicromonster]

So last night out of curiosity I decided to try to use my Robinson racing machined gear.

This one.


It worked better I think. I just used my body reamer to open up four opposing holes until the screws for the diff locker fit. It centered on its own and had four screws holding it tight instead of two. Plus none of the holes were oblong. I guess this would be the better way to go. The only thing I was worried with about my first method was that if the screws loosened up a bit it would allow the gear to drift off center and wobble - possibly stripping. You could do the method I showed first with the stock gear until it stripped and replace it with this gear.

[goobs]

i see no pic!

[OGmicromonster]

Originally Posted by goobs

i see no pic!

I was linking it to the Tower Hobbies website. That may be been a problem. I've uploaded the photo to my website so it should show up now.

[OGmicromonster]

Part Two

Okay, I finished it up, but I kinda tried something different than what I had planed. We'll see how this works and go from there.

Step 4: After installing my converted transmission, I cut the yoke off the male end of the sliders and glued it into a second female end. This extends the slider so it fits the length of the GRC. I then used the CVD coupler and put the Traxxas slider onto the PTI input shaft.



Step 5: With everything installed you can see the extended slider (using two slider sets front and rear - four total).



And a side view of the whole truck with the sliders.



That's it. Nice and clean minimal modifications needed. We'll see how this yoke to CVD connection holds up hopefully this weekend. There's a comp I'm going to if it doesn't pour. If it doesn't hold up, which I hope it does, I'll go ahead and make the mods to the TC4 rear input shaft.

[K_B]

That's how I setup mine originally and it held up fine until the crosspin fell out (helps to use loctite I suppose )

[jetboat]

what about using a small (2-56) bolt/nut instead of a cross pin, then you wouldnt have to worry about it falling out.

[OGmicromonster]

Yah, Loctite helps. I'm also going to put some shrink tubing around the joint to help keep it clean and catch any parts if things come loose.

[goobs]

Originally Posted by goobs

i just took my axles apart thinking i stripped the gears, but i didnt!

so now im waiting on you so i can see how to finish the sliders!

well after i put them back together i was driving it and not 30 seconds later i heard a clicking noise from the rear end!....i stripped it!

also how u mounted the driveshaft to the axle was exactly how i did it...

i guess what they say is true-"Great minds think alike!"

so now i gotta buy some gears...really POed!

[OGmicromonster]

I'll do a little How-To next on shimming the gears to help reduce stripping issues.

[doomdog666]

hmmmm. as far as the sliders on the grc axle input shafts, i tried that set up on my grc a while back and it bound up really bad. the difference in angles (the axle input shaft at a 90 and the drive shaft at a 45) will force the drive shaft to try to align themselves. picture the the two different planes the yokes have to travel, and you will notice that the traxxas slider would have to extend on the lower part of the arc, while the opposite side had to compress. i ended up getting tc3 input shafts and ground a flat spot on them to mount the traxxas yoke to. i then ground down the long pin supplied with the traxxas shafts to act like a set screw. maybe you can make it work, but i scratched the idea of using the stock grc input shafts.

as far as getting the traxxas yokes on the stock grc tranny output shafts, i did this. i drilled out the traxxas yoke until it sleeved over the the stock output of tranny. again, i ground the pins on the traxxas grubs to be about an 1/8" long. i would then align the pin in the yoke with the grc tranny output where the dogbone pins would ride on. the pins would act as the same way as the stock dogbone would, and the grub would press against the output, securing the yoke from falling off. this set-up has worked great so far, and virtually no slop at all. sorry don't have pics, but hopefully i have painted a decent picture of what to do. one last thing. i remember that i had to shim out the yoke from the blkhead so that the output cups would not restrict the drive shaft droop angles. i just used one set of tmaxx sliders, and an extra set of yokes. you also might have to find some extra grubs or set screws(traxxas p#4928X, M4/14.5). if i remember, some set screws for hpi yokes are the same thread as the tmaxx. they were what my hobby shop had, and worked perfect.

[Natedog]

Lookin good OGMicromonster! Those Taylor's lockers are very nice quality.

[OGmicromonster]

Originally Posted by doomdog666

hmmmm. as far as the sliders on the grc axle input shafts, i tried that set up on my grc a while back and it bound up really bad. the difference in angles (the axle input shaft at a 90 and the drive shaft at a 45) will force the drive shaft to try to align themselves. picture the the two different planes the yokes have to travel, and you will notice that the traxxas slider would have to extend on the lower part of the arc, while the opposite side had to compress. i ended up getting tc3 input shafts and ground a flat spot on them to mount the traxxas yoke to. i then ground down the long pin supplied with the traxxas shafts to act like a set screw. maybe you can make it work, but i scratched the idea of using the stock grc input shafts.

as far as getting the traxxas yokes on the stock grc tranny output shafts, i did this. i drilled out the traxxas yoke until it sleeved over the the stock output of tranny. again, i ground the pins on the traxxas grubs to be about an 1/8" long. i would then align the pin in the yoke with the grc tranny output where the dogbone pins would ride on. the pins would act as the same way as the stock dogbone would, and the grub would press against the output, securing the yoke from falling off. this set-up has worked great so far, and virtually no slop at all. sorry don't have pics, but hopefully i have painted a decent picture of what to do. one last thing. i remember that i had to shim out the yoke from the blkhead so that the output cups would not restrict the drive shaft droop angles. i just used one set of tmaxx sliders, and an extra set of yokes. you also might have to find some extra grubs or set screws(traxxas p#4928X, M4/14.5). if i remember, some set screws for hpi yokes are the same thread as the tmaxx. they were what my hobby shop had, and worked perfect.

If I'm thinking right of what you did, you used T-maxx sliders. T-maxx sliders are larger in diameter and in my opinion are too large and unnecessary. I used Stampede shafts (you could use Jato too I suppose) which are smaller and can't be drilled out to fit over the stock output cup. Also if I remember right a few people were using the T-maxx sliders and putting the yoke through the larger hole in the stock input shaft. That I could see would cause problems. If you look at the photo, you'll see I have my yokes in the exact same location that the stock CVD would go into and shouldn't bind. It's basically replicating what a traxxas yoke and shaft would be doing without using the traxxas yoke. Also with the mounting location on the center transmission being so close to the center of the truck, the angle of the drive shafts are shallower than the method you described. BUT, like I said, this is if I'm picturing it right. I've seen somebody else use the method you described (maybe it was you, I don't remember) so I'm assuming it's the same way.

I would like to see photos of your method though.

[K_B]

I use T-maxx sliders on mine; definitely overkill. I also originally had them setup like yours is now. Since the yoke is wider, it put undue stress on the crosspin. I actually twisted a few.

[goobs]

Originally Posted by K_B

I use T-maxx sliders on mine; definitely overkill. I also originally had them setup like yours is now. Since the yoke is wider, it put undue stress on the crosspin. I actually twisted a few.

thats how i have mine setup and i took some baleing (sp) wire and cut it the same lengthas the yoke and i dont have any problems with it.
also i have those brass spacer thingys that come with servos in the yoke holes.

[doomdog666]

ahhh, my bad. i forgot that the there is a slot on the stock input shaft. but i replaced the stock one with a tc3 shaft, and ground a flat spot on it. part if the reason i replaced the cvd was that the set screw that locked the cross pin kept working loose, even with red loctite. i also thought that the pin was a little too small diameter. if there was a way to get a longer pin and sleeve it to fit the stampede yoke, it would be nice. good luck, you definitely have the resources to make it work.