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Old 01-26-2006, 03:02 PM   #1
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Default Goliath crawler project

this is my goliath that i never gave a chance as stock

it's lacking drive shafts, gear reduction unit, and speed control

i have also yet to narrow the wheels as you can see in the pictures
but this is what i have so far








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Old 01-26-2006, 06:21 PM   #2
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Not bad man, what's the wheelbase on that thing? You probably want to keep it in the 11" to 12.5" range, anything longer on a 2.2 rig seems to kill the breakover angle.
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:23 PM   #3
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lets not talk about how long it is cause its too long an i plan on shortening the front links about 2 inches....but thats my first rig i figure i did pretty well....and i want to say there are no after market parts for these goliaths
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:03 PM   #4
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I have also heard and that their axles arn't quite up to par for durability. Nylon or plastic gears, what ever they are. and the axle shafts arn't supported well in the housing. but that's just what I have heard and from the pics I have seen. I would be carfull with them.
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Old 01-27-2006, 08:08 PM   #5
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See what I meen. the thin axle shaft isn't supported at the knuckle. Whare as the TLT has thicker shafts and full bearing support that also helps to seal against crap getting to your gears, which in the TLT are metal not nylon.
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Old 01-28-2006, 11:50 AM   #6
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to late not this is what i have....and plus they look so cool
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Old 02-07-2006, 03:37 PM   #7
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ok the link mounts didn't survive....so i reworked it


old link mounts


new link mounts



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Old 02-07-2006, 11:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSchoolCrawler
See what I meen. the thin axle shaft isn't supported at the knuckle. Whare as the TLT has thicker shafts and full bearing support that also helps to seal against crap getting to your gears, which in the TLT are metal not nylon.
Actually the PTI trucks diff gears are pretty tough. They're the same ones used in NItro TC3's and TC3/4 (in modified). Also the teeth are slightly deeper than the TLT gears. If you're worried, just shim the diff closer to the pinion a bit.

As for the shafts, I wouldn't worry there either. They're steel and can handle quite a bit of torque. After all they're the same size as the ones used on Nitro cars and trucks. For rock crawling though, I would ditch the ball diffs and plastic outdrives. The out drives will break first before anything else. It's true, the shafts could have been sealed more like the TLT, but the PTI axle housings are pretty strong and are way thinner than the TLT axles. That means less of a chance to get held up on rocks. I'd like to see how this truck performs when completed.

Good Job!
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:53 PM   #9
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thanks for the support....and i hope i get it finished! between classes and work i haven't had alot of time to put into it....but yea it seems like everytime you try something different and post it people have nothing but negative things to say about it...but if we all did tlt and clod trucks what fun would that be?
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:55 PM   #10
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Exactly! You'll never know if something works or not with out trying.

Good luck.
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Old 02-08-2006, 06:40 PM   #11
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Default update!

i finished the upgrade on the front axle all new lower link mounts and upper...i still have yet to upgrade the rear of the truck but i tought this was a good place to take pictures to show the progress....oh yea and im am going to shorten the rear links by 1/2 inch so it will fit a 1/10 scale body better.
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:31 PM   #12
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Good progress, now if it can compete with the TLTs i guess time will tell. You made it about the best you can.

Am I the only one who thinks those Goliath axles and a cleaner servo setup would look killer as a scale rig?
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:07 AM   #13
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well it still has aways to bo befor it's able to compet with a tlt rig.....but the axles have a thinner profile compared to the tlt axles so they do have that one up....we'll see how it goes i still need to get this to completly lock the axles because i dont' know how well my locking method will hold up
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Old 02-10-2006, 08:13 AM   #14
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ok i've run into drive shaft pains....what i was gonna do is take the original drive shafts (that are a dog bone on one end and a cv on the other) and cut them in half then use brass sqare tubing to splice them back together.....well this sounded good in my head, but it's just no posible for the front end because the angle from the output drive to the axle is just too steep for the dog bone.....so i thought about using a drive shaft off of my xtm xfactor......well i did it but it doesn't really work because the motor hangs down and comes in contact with the overly larg drive cups on the end of the xfactor shafts....so now im right back where i started...and ideas or suggestions would be great (besides the; you should have got a tlt suggestion)




oh and ill try to put some pictures up when i get home because it's easier to see in pictures



thanks
Ben
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:19 PM   #15
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im done....except for a pinion gear and i don't have the front drive shaft on the truck for it is drying

on to the pictures....oh and this is a temporary

this last picture is of the rear drive shaft....that i made by cuting the original drive shaft in half and graphing in square brass tube
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:23 PM   #16
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my, what a wide post you have!!
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:25 PM   #17
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my what a 12 inch monitor you have
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Old 02-13-2006, 08:32 PM   #18
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i love it man, i think it's great and thanks for the hi-res images. I like it when I can actually tell whats been done. Glad you didn't follow the norm and tried you're own thing too, thats what this hobby is all about! Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-18-2006, 07:49 PM   #19
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Default front drive shaft fix

i think i've come up with a fix for the front drive shaft....the problem i was having is that the angle was to severe for the dog bone and out drive assembly i couldn't ever make it the right length it was either to short or too long....when ever i thought i had it the right length the dog bone would bottom out in the bottom of the out drive cup and would inhibit the degree of articulation

the fix:
i used a rustler half shaft two different sizes of square brass tubing...
what i did was cut the universal joint off the end of the half shaft drill a hole for the larger square tube and inserted it to what was left of the half shaft...then i bored out the other end of the universal joint to accept 1/4 inch solid tube...i then cross drilled bothe ends where the square tube and the 1/4 solid was inserted i then pinned them...the i inserted the 1/4" tube into the out drive cup an cross drilled it to accept a screw to lock it into the out drive....

this seems to work it doesn't slip out and doen't inhibit articulation


on to the pics

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Old 02-18-2006, 08:07 PM   #20
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holy way-to-rig-a-driveshaft batman
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