RCCrawler Forums

K_B · 02-28-2006, 09:09 AM

Parts can be found here:

http://www.killerhobbies.com/browse_...ame/PTI_Racing

onesmoothtranny · 02-28-2006, 11:19 PM

i have just a little left to do on "project mini sniper" so far things are going well, and now am waiting on some ordered parts and some final welding. I am impatient and ended up ziptying savage shocks to the *** end and doing a quick setup and analysis on what i have so far, a few things need changing but other than that it climbs like a cat up a tree.
P.S. running weight at this point was 4lbs 7oz. (not too shabby)

toyota_yes_please · 03-01-2006, 09:52 AM

nice! im still waiting on my diff spools

supercrawlerfreak · 03-01-2006, 11:49 AM

Im still waitin on a tlt, laithe, 1 set of moabs, tubing, and metal gear servos 5 channel redio. basically everything. I got all the measurements for the small scale on autoCAD, Itll be 16" long 12 " wheel base And the scaler will be exact all the same tubes crossmembers and seats for look. moabs on home made bead locks.

onesmoothtranny · 03-02-2006, 11:29 PM

still needs tweaking

supercrawlerfreak · 03-03-2006, 12:17 AM

your missin a lot of tubes

onesmoothtranny · 03-06-2006, 11:44 PM

I decided the stock style dogebones were not going to cut it. so i put on t-maxx slider. they worked like a CHARM. more on that coming soon. but here are some more build/driving pics.

WRXronald · 03-07-2006, 06:12 AM

me love the goliath too!

my first crawler rig (brushless TOO!)

must admit your MUCH more custom than mine. me too lazy to host pics....

but i just weighed mine last night on digi-scale... 5.5lbs... with 200grams wheel weights in each front tire/wheel, and 100grams wheel weights in each rear tire/wheel.

so extra 600 grams purposefully added to lower CoG--- thats about 1lb 5oz.... would put my rig pretty similar to yours in weight w/out the lead wheel weights.

mine crawls WAY better with the weight i've found. the brushless has MORE than enough power to avoid any stall. matter of fact i have to be VERY careful not to TEAR the driveline apart due to the torque of the brushless and low gearing--- STALL is pretty much not possible--- instead of stall issue, it will just rip the drive apart, i've already ruined one set of outdrive cups (at the tranny) and i'm wearing into the second set pretty quickly. TOO much torque--- but i'm getting better at recognizing when to layoff of a completely locked up tire.

the longest stretch i could come up with was right around 89mm CVDs (T3/T4i think, link below) wheelbase 11.25in if you flatten out the lower links. causes small issue on ground clearance of the center, but crawls nice though, REAL low CoG.

the HPI dogs are shorter, with the Spools recommended here the HPI dogs are a MUST because the spool slots for the bones stick out about 2mm further than the stock diffs, doesn't sound like much, but its enough to RUIN your already WEAK stock turning radius and steering knuckle angles..

also on the those HPI dogbones, i found the drive pins at the spools were grabbing the plastic axle housing very SLIGHTLY, but it caused a slight binding during rotation--- i dremmeled about 1mm of each pin tip and that eliminated the problem.

i'd be MORE than happy to help out with tips/tricks as well. i kept the stock servo mounting position, went with the draglink though--- but i am VERY intrigued with the mounting pics in this thread--- VERY COOL! i must try that----

what advantages did you gain by changing that mounting position? do you find less servo-to-mount flexing?

i kept the stock chassis. and stuck some tall shock towers on it (zipties are my BEST FRIEND-- since i don't do machine or any metal fab stuff

) mounting MSR5's near vertical almost completely eliminated the TorqueTwist issues i had at first when using a more extreme shock mounting angle direct to the frame rails.

what gearing did you go with? i went 96t spur--- had to dremel the bottom tranny plate, slightly the side plates (but that depends on which brand 96t spur-- the HPI is .5 modules, slightly larger than the 48p spurs--- but .5 modules and 48p are pretty much interchangeable). 13t pinion (smallest 5mm diameter pinion made).... and MP JET outrunner brushless is 1000kv. so geared pretty low.

4ws is a MUST and helps ALOT on turning. i went fully proportional with a heli-transmitter and 6ch Rx.

all in all i love the rig. and it crawls pretty good. and even stock it went together just fine (although i NEVER used the stock diffs) guessing i could keep up with the TLTs out there on the rocks, no prob (IF i had some crawling skills). rephrase-- i'm uessing a capable DRIVER could use my rig to keep up with the TLT guys out there.

hey-- practice makes perfect-- and its just now getting warm enough to get me sufficient outdoor practice... by end of summer i hope to be a MUCH more skilled crawler.

anyways--- GREAT rig and HAPPY to see i'm not the only PTI lover out there.

how much the tuber frame by itself weigh? it looks great but does it ruin your CoG?

i'm so CoG nutty anymore--- i'm probably gonna the nix the Proline ('70 ford) body i have (255grams

but looks completely scale i love it!) and go with a much smaller (and thinner lexan) Maximum MT body--- just 88 grams. makes a BIG difference in CoG, so much so you can immediately tell the difference when crawling. sure it doesn't look nearly as scale. but hey--- function or form? you decide.

here's a link to the 88gram body-- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXRP08

link to the CVD's for stretching (plug and play pretty much, with some Traxxas Tmaxx turnbuckles for the rod/links---

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCZ5

and a link to the spools that i used as well... these are 7075 anodized alum--- pretty strong and i've not had a problem with them at all--- the steel ones are equally good option and no doubt even stronger, but overkill on strength, and near identical in sizing, so whichever-- it really makes no difference long as you use the shorter HPI dogbones with them...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDGD6&P=ML

like i say the Maximum MT body is smaller dimensions, looks less scale--- but at 167grams lighter than the standard 1/10 Proline bodies--- it may not sound like much-- but the difference in performance is noticeably HUGE, IMO.

great thread--- lets keep it going. i love EVERYTHING PTI mod!!!

crawldaddy · 03-07-2006, 08:53 AM

looks good ben! We need to set a time to go beat on a few rocks...now if it would just stop snowing!!

supercrawlerfreak · 03-07-2006, 10:42 AM

Looks awsome. your still missin the tubes on top. Ill post some pics of mine later today. mine uses aolid bars instead of tubeing (cant seem to find any). I also got my tlt.

toyota_yes_please · 03-07-2006, 06:29 PM

the aluminum spools work ....but now im stripping the ring gears in the diffs....i just can't win...do you know of any other ring gears that can be used in these axles?

supercrawlerfreak · 03-08-2006, 02:26 PM

I was in my welding class the other day and one of the guys next to me mentioned that he had a machine shop. So I asked him if he could do some tlt axels, and he said he could so I gave him the 2 halves and the steering knuckels. Ill let you know next week if they work or not.

WRXronald · 03-08-2006, 02:27 PM

missed this part yesterday when i read the thread....

"t-maxx slider. they worked like a CHARM"

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!! show us some more pics of how you set this up.....

the one pic gives me a really good idea how you worked it at the axles... but how about at the center tranny???

i was trying to do this myself but FAILED MISERABLY before getting halfway there... ended up just going with the 89mm CVD's from T3/T4 and i'm not happy with the wheelbase--- no long enough!!!! and to hard to create some ride height and CVD angle at the center tranny...

the Tmaxx sliders SEEMED perfect to me... i just could not come up with a good way to make them 'hookup' at the center tranny. plus i was concerned for breakage. but honestly... it would be a GREAT weakpoint. better to have these cheap Tmaxx axle shafts break before internal ring gears and whatnot in the axles. fix ups would be much easier. (matter of fact i'm staring at an 8pack of spare tmaxx shafts as we speak-- just gathering dust right now).

please do tell and show more pics!!!

GREAT STUFF!!!

K_B · 03-08-2006, 02:43 PM

I agree. I'd love to see some photos too. Very curious.

Skeeno · 03-10-2006, 12:03 AM

That looks like mine. You can see it here: http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery9502.htm

I have the AE spools, 55t motor, 12/87 gearing and haven't had any ring gear issues. Of course, now I will.

onesmoothtranny · 03-18-2006, 12:02 PM

It is now disassembled and on its way to be zinc plated. so I will now take this moment and tell you all about the setup.
Chassis: Hand built with a pair bolt cutters, pliers, a tig welder and my hands.
Axles: PTI with associated spools, Hpi drivelines.
Tranny: Pti for now. Piecing together a stealth. and a XXX Motor mounting plate
Motor: Integy 55 turn
Battery: 2X 2c 2100 Mah Lipo with 6v Rx pack, or 8c 1800 Kan
TX/RX: Traxxas Tq3 with Modefied 3rd channel
Shocks: Traxxas aluminum #4761
Rim/Tires: Tamiya Twin Detonater rims Narrowed, Proline Moab tires
Servos: 2X Hs-645mg
Drivelines: Traxxas T-maxx
ESC: Novak XRS

WRXronald · 03-18-2006, 12:31 PM

still would like to see an explanation and pics of how to hook up those Tmaxx drives at the center tranny through?

onesmoothtranny · 03-21-2006, 09:10 PM

I started another thread for the drivelines check it out here
Nuke proof Drive Line setup PTI. (think t-maxx)

p.s. it now has an Associated RC10 b-3 tranny, more than enough torque.

onesmoothtranny · 03-22-2006, 06:40 PM

some crawling pics
first day of spring

02-28-2006, 11:19 PM	#22
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	ziptied test drive i have just a little left to do on "project mini sniper" so far things are going well, and now am waiting on some ordered parts and some final welding. I am impatient and ended up ziptying savage shocks to the *** end and doing a quick setup and analysis on what i have so far, a few things need changing but other than that it climbs like a cat up a tree. P.S. running weight at this point was 4lbs 7oz. (not too shabby)

03-06-2006, 11:44 PM	#27
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	T-maxx drive line test. I decided the stock style dogebones were not going to cut it. so i put on t-maxx slider. they worked like a CHARM. more on that coming soon. but here are some more build/driving pics.

03-07-2006, 06:12 AM	#28
WRXronald Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nebiru, OuterSpace Posts: 500	yep me love the goliath too! my first crawler rig (brushless TOO!) must admit your MUCH more custom than mine. me too lazy to host pics.... but i just weighed mine last night on digi-scale... 5.5lbs... with 200grams wheel weights in each front tire/wheel, and 100grams wheel weights in each rear tire/wheel. so extra 600 grams purposefully added to lower CoG--- thats about 1lb 5oz.... would put my rig pretty similar to yours in weight w/out the lead wheel weights. mine crawls WAY better with the weight i've found. the brushless has MORE than enough power to avoid any stall. matter of fact i have to be VERY careful not to TEAR the driveline apart due to the torque of the brushless and low gearing--- STALL is pretty much not possible--- instead of stall issue, it will just rip the drive apart, i've already ruined one set of outdrive cups (at the tranny) and i'm wearing into the second set pretty quickly. TOO much torque--- but i'm getting better at recognizing when to layoff of a completely locked up tire. the longest stretch i could come up with was right around 89mm CVDs (T3/T4i think, link below) wheelbase 11.25in if you flatten out the lower links. causes small issue on ground clearance of the center, but crawls nice though, REAL low CoG. the HPI dogs are shorter, with the Spools recommended here the HPI dogs are a MUST because the spool slots for the bones stick out about 2mm further than the stock diffs, doesn't sound like much, but its enough to RUIN your already WEAK stock turning radius and steering knuckle angles.. also on the those HPI dogbones, i found the drive pins at the spools were grabbing the plastic axle housing very SLIGHTLY, but it caused a slight binding during rotation--- i dremmeled about 1mm of each pin tip and that eliminated the problem. i'd be MORE than happy to help out with tips/tricks as well. i kept the stock servo mounting position, went with the draglink though--- but i am VERY intrigued with the mounting pics in this thread--- VERY COOL! i must try that---- what advantages did you gain by changing that mounting position? do you find less servo-to-mount flexing? i kept the stock chassis. and stuck some tall shock towers on it (zipties are my BEST FRIEND-- since i don't do machine or any metal fab stuff ) mounting MSR5's near vertical almost completely eliminated the TorqueTwist issues i had at first when using a more extreme shock mounting angle direct to the frame rails. what gearing did you go with? i went 96t spur--- had to dremel the bottom tranny plate, slightly the side plates (but that depends on which brand 96t spur-- the HPI is .5 modules, slightly larger than the 48p spurs--- but .5 modules and 48p are pretty much interchangeable). 13t pinion (smallest 5mm diameter pinion made).... and MP JET outrunner brushless is 1000kv. so geared pretty low. 4ws is a MUST and helps ALOT on turning. i went fully proportional with a heli-transmitter and 6ch Rx. all in all i love the rig. and it crawls pretty good. and even stock it went together just fine (although i NEVER used the stock diffs) guessing i could keep up with the TLTs out there on the rocks, no prob (IF i had some crawling skills). rephrase-- i'm uessing a capable DRIVER could use my rig to keep up with the TLT guys out there. hey-- practice makes perfect-- and its just now getting warm enough to get me sufficient outdoor practice... by end of summer i hope to be a MUCH more skilled crawler. anyways--- GREAT rig and HAPPY to see i'm not the only PTI lover out there. how much the tuber frame by itself weigh? it looks great but does it ruin your CoG? i'm so CoG nutty anymore--- i'm probably gonna the nix the Proline ('70 ford) body i have (255grams but looks completely scale i love it!) and go with a much smaller (and thinner lexan) Maximum MT body--- just 88 grams. makes a BIG difference in CoG, so much so you can immediately tell the difference when crawling. sure it doesn't look nearly as scale. but hey--- function or form? you decide. here's a link to the 88gram body-- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXRP08 link to the CVD's for stretching (plug and play pretty much, with some Traxxas Tmaxx turnbuckles for the rod/links--- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCCZ5 and a link to the spools that i used as well... these are 7075 anodized alum--- pretty strong and i've not had a problem with them at all--- the steel ones are equally good option and no doubt even stronger, but overkill on strength, and near identical in sizing, so whichever-- it really makes no difference long as you use the shorter HPI dogbones with them... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDGD6&P=ML like i say the Maximum MT body is smaller dimensions, looks less scale--- but at 167grams lighter than the standard 1/10 Proline bodies--- it may not sound like much-- but the difference in performance is noticeably HUGE, IMO. great thread--- lets keep it going. i love EVERYTHING PTI mod!!! Last edited by WRXronald; 03-07-2006 at 06:42 AM.

03-08-2006, 02:27 PM	#33
WRXronald Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nebiru, OuterSpace Posts: 500	oh gosh... missed this part yesterday when i read the thread.... "t-maxx slider. they worked like a CHARM" PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!! show us some more pics of how you set this up..... the one pic gives me a really good idea how you worked it at the axles... but how about at the center tranny??? i was trying to do this myself but FAILED MISERABLY before getting halfway there... ended up just going with the 89mm CVD's from T3/T4 and i'm not happy with the wheelbase--- no long enough!!!! and to hard to create some ride height and CVD angle at the center tranny... the Tmaxx sliders SEEMED perfect to me... i just could not come up with a good way to make them 'hookup' at the center tranny. plus i was concerned for breakage. but honestly... it would be a GREAT weakpoint. better to have these cheap Tmaxx axle shafts break before internal ring gears and whatnot in the axles. fix ups would be much easier. (matter of fact i'm staring at an 8pack of spare tmaxx shafts as we speak-- just gathering dust right now). please do tell and show more pics!!! GREAT STUFF!!! Last edited by WRXronald; 03-08-2006 at 09:58 PM.

03-18-2006, 12:02 PM	#36
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	Running setups It is now disassembled and on its way to be zinc plated. so I will now take this moment and tell you all about the setup. Chassis: Hand built with a pair bolt cutters, pliers, a tig welder and my hands. Axles: PTI with associated spools, Hpi drivelines. Tranny: Pti for now. Piecing together a stealth. and a XXX Motor mounting plate Motor: Integy 55 turn Battery: 2X 2c 2100 Mah Lipo with 6v Rx pack, or 8c 1800 Kan TX/RX: Traxxas Tq3 with Modefied 3rd channel Shocks: Traxxas aluminum #4761 Rim/Tires: Tamiya Twin Detonater rims Narrowed, Proline Moab tires Servos: 2X Hs-645mg Drivelines: Traxxas T-maxx ESC: Novak XRS Last edited by onesmoothtranny; 03-21-2006 at 08:05 PM.

02-28-2006, 09:09 AM	#21
K_B I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2,048	Parts can be found here: http://www.killerhobbies.com/browse_...ame/PTI_Racing

03-01-2006, 09:52 AM	#23
toyota_yes_please Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville Posts: 169	nice! im still waiting on my diff spools

03-01-2006, 11:49 AM	#24
supercrawlerfreak Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Murrieta Posts: 806	Im still waitin on a tlt, laithe, 1 set of moabs, tubing, and metal gear servos 5 channel redio. basically everything. I got all the measurements for the small scale on autoCAD, Itll be 16" long 12 " wheel base And the scaler will be exact all the same tubes crossmembers and seats for look. moabs on home made bead locks.

03-02-2006, 11:29 PM	#25
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	still needs tweaking

03-03-2006, 12:17 AM	#26
supercrawlerfreak Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Murrieta Posts: 806	your missin a lot of tubes

03-07-2006, 08:53 AM	#29
crawldaddy Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: logan Posts: 221	looks good ben! We need to set a time to go beat on a few rocks...now if it would just stop snowing!!

03-07-2006, 10:42 AM	#30
supercrawlerfreak Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Murrieta Posts: 806	Looks awsome. your still missin the tubes on top. Ill post some pics of mine later today. mine uses aolid bars instead of tubeing (cant seem to find any). I also got my tlt.

03-07-2006, 06:29 PM	#31
toyota_yes_please Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Knoxville Posts: 169	the aluminum spools work ....but now im stripping the ring gears in the diffs....i just can't win...do you know of any other ring gears that can be used in these axles?

03-08-2006, 02:26 PM	#32
supercrawlerfreak Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Murrieta Posts: 806	I was in my welding class the other day and one of the guys next to me mentioned that he had a machine shop. So I asked him if he could do some tlt axels, and he said he could so I gave him the 2 halves and the steering knuckels. Ill let you know next week if they work or not.

03-08-2006, 02:43 PM	#34
K_B I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2,048	I agree. I'd love to see some photos too. Very curious.

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03-10-2006, 12:03 AM	#35
Skeeno RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Irritable Isle Posts: 1,364	That looks like mine. You can see it here: http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery9502.htm I have the AE spools, 55t motor, 12/87 gearing and haven't had any ring gear issues. Of course, now I will.

03-18-2006, 12:31 PM	#37
WRXronald Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Nebiru, OuterSpace Posts: 500	cool... still would like to see an explanation and pics of how to hook up those Tmaxx drives at the center tranny through?

03-21-2006, 09:10 PM	#38
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	more on the drivelines I started another thread for the drivelines check it out here Nuke proof Drive Line setup PTI. (think t-maxx) p.s. it now has an Associated RC10 b-3 tranny, more than enough torque. Last edited by onesmoothtranny; 03-21-2006 at 09:13 PM.

03-22-2006, 06:40 PM	#39
onesmoothtranny Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Logan Posts: 19	on the rocks some crawling pics first day of spring

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