PTI Goliath Crawler driveshaft?

[tomik]

Snapped the rear one today. There was a mold fault in it earlier and now it snapped completely. I mean the shaft that is between spur outlet and the rear axle.

Just wondering what I could replace it with, because I don't want to order from PTI. I've heard that they snap pretty easily even in easy crawling places. I've never got stuck with the car yet, so it can't be the problem in my occasion.

Any suggestions? It would be nice if the part was a throw-in type ;), but if not, please write all the needed parts. I'm going to have to order them overseas, so it would be nice to have all in one package .

You can also find my msn-address from my profile if you need more information etc...

Thanks,
Tomi

[K_B]

Are you against swapping out the CVDs for T-Maxx driveshafts? I'm running Maxx shafts and it was probably one of the best mods I've done so far. Plus, it's stupid simple to do.

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46265

Otherwise, I think the MIP CVD for the Associated T4 will work as a direct replacement:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJVD8&P=7

The Associatied version which are made by MIP are cheaper:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDW4&P=7

[tomik]

Originally Posted by K_B

Are you against swapping out the CVDs for T-Maxx driveshafts? I'm running Maxx shafts and it was probably one of the best mods I've done so far. Plus, it's stupid simple to do.

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46265

Otherwise, I think the MIP CVD for the Associated T4 will work as a direct replacement:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJVD8&P=7

The Associatied version which are made by MIP are cheaper:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDW4&P=7

Thanks. I think this helps. K_B you'll be having a PM shortly...

[DRCMAN]

Originally Posted by K_B

Are you against swapping out the CVDs for T-Maxx driveshafts? I'm running Maxx shafts and it was probably one of the best mods I've done so far. Plus, it's stupid simple to do.

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46265

Otherwise, I think the MIP CVD for the Associated T4 will work as a direct replacement:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJVD8&P=7

The Associatied version which are made by MIP are cheaper:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDW4&P=7

Have you guys found a cvd long enough for a 12"wb setup? I'm planning a scaler and am leaning torward the GRC running a 4:1 GRU. Depending on the wb of the body I run I may haxe to extend it.

[Skeeno]

PTI is currently making one that will be released shortly.

[tomik]

Hi again...
Today I ordered the T-Maxx parts with Skeeno's and K_B's kind help on choosing the right parts Thank you guys.

Because of the rear axle being broken and not having anything else to do ( yeah, right... ) I decided to make a mock-up of the lengthened PTI . Here it is only rear done with way too short and long screws: http://tomik.luola.net/index.php?dir...Crawler&img=40 ->.
I used threadshaft (maybe it's got a better name, but don't remember what, sorry) to the links and Revo's shorter triangles. I also put the original ball bearing between the triangle and chassis. Works like a charm!! Sooooo smooth!

Well... Back to the pot now =).

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by K_B

Are you against swapping out the CVDs for T-Maxx driveshafts? I'm running Maxx shafts and it was probably one of the best mods I've done so far. Plus, it's stupid simple to do.

Great tips!

Originally Posted by tomik

...I used threadshaft (maybe it's got a better name, but don't remember what, sorry)...

All-thread.

[tomik]

Thanks, Natedog.

Made the front too: http://tomik.luola.net/index.php?dir...Crawler&img=45 ->

Wheelbase is now 31cm (~12.2 inches). Now waiting for the driveshafts to arrive.
The all-thread (3mm) seems a bit too soft, but hope it keeps up long enough to have some idea how the lenghtened version behaves.

[Natedog]

You're welcome Tomik. 12.2 to 12.5 is great wheelbase for 2.2 crawlers and still comp legal. All-thread is not very hard and bends easily as you've seen...once you have the lengths set you can get proper length screws. Buy good quality metric 10.9 or 12.9 grade, avoid stainless steel as they are too soft.

[K_B]

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this: You can use aluminum tubing as a sleeve over the all-thread lengths to strengthen 'em up.

[tomik]

Originally Posted by Natedog

You're welcome Tomik. 12.2 to 12.5 is great wheelbase for 2.2 crawlers and still comp legal. All-thread is not very hard and bends easily as you've seen...once you have the lengths set you can get proper length screws. Buy good quality metric 10.9 or 12.9 grade, avoid stainless steel as they are too soft.

Hmm.. Thanks for the tip, but there seems to be only 8.8 grade in the shop I use. Would it be hard enough? I think the one I've got is 4.6 grade.
How about acidproof all-thread (A4)?

All in all... Will M3 be ever hard enough? Don't the harder grades snap more easily than the soft ones that "only" bend?

EDIT: On friday I should have the T-maxx parts and some silicone fuel line. Will post pics...

[DRCMAN]

Originally Posted by Skeeno

PTI is currently making one that will be released shortly.

Sounds good I guess I'll ait till it's released, unless I'm tempted by another tlt build.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by K_B

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this: You can use aluminum tubing as a sleeve over the all-thread lengths to strengthen 'em up.

This helps and 'works' but I've still bent them where the rod end meets the tubing...but it works and is inexpensive.

Tomik, 8.8 grade should be ok, but not quite as strong. If you snap M3 10.9 or 12.9 then it was going to break anyways or the fastener should be larger diameter.

[sicklidz]

I'm building my links out of M3 all thread and carbon fiber tubing. The I.D of the tube is a RCH bigger than the O.D. of the rod. I'll use a 3X6mm washer on both ends of the CF where it meets the rod end to allow for a more solid surface for the plastic and CF to seat on to. Any one else had any luck with this type of link? Cf is "lighter than aluminum and stronger than steel" or that's what my local metal shop sold me on. It seems to be extremely rigid. I'll be starting a build thread once all my parts get here. I'm stretching the rear 1" for a 60/40 weight distro. And to fit my '72 Chevy body.

[K_B]

I've read of a few people using CF-sleeved links but they reported having problems with the ends of the tubes splintering. So I would just take some extra care to protect the ends of the links.

[sicklidz]

I've heard of the delamination issue as well. I was going to "treat" the end grain of the CF to some CA. I've read this works well. That's also why I'm going to put the washer in there. I may CA the washer to the CF. I should have some links made tonight..... I'm waiting on the UPS guy now! My wideners just got here, not trying to hijack this thread...... I'll move this to a build thread.

[OGmicromonster]

I'm surprised that CVD's are being broken. I've torqued my GRC hard at a comp once and didn't snap it. I did however bend a dogbone into a slight S-curve and twisted the other three 90-degrees.

As for the links, JD Carbon makes carbon/aluminum or stainless hybrid links to any length. I have a set on mine.

[tomik]

You see... There was a molding fault in both of my dogbone-ends of the CVD. I suppose that's the reason because I haven't even driven rough yet ( because I noticed the mold faults when I was building the car ).

Well.. Hopefully the problems will be gone in about 15 hours (I'll be home from work then ).

[tomik]

Hi again... It's been a couple more hours than 15 ;).
Had to do something else for a while (gf talked about something called "life" and having the car as my new lover ).

Anyway, I got something built too, the T-maxx driveshafts . Results can be (partially) seen here: http://tomik.luola.net/index.php?dir...Crawler&img=47 ->

Too bad I can't drive the car yet, because I only have the stock pinion which is too small.
What size pinion should I get to replace it? I think I need about 3mm bigger diameter.

EDIT: Ordered 18T and 20T pinions, they should arrive tomorrow.

[tomik]

Got the 18T pinion installed and it works ok.
The links made from the soft steel bend way too easily.

But the worst thing is that there's a weird clicking sound coming from the joint between axle output and T-maxx diff output.... Which eventually turned out to be the following...

EDIT: Problem found. One of the four diff "screws" had come off and almost completely destroyed the front gears :(.

Another problem: Do I have too much torque twist or why does my car instantly lean to the left when throttle is applied? Even on flat ground. Because of that the car hardly turns to the left :(. Advice needed.