RCCrawler Forums

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 03:45 PM

I ordered a PTI excluding the parts I wasn't going to use and here is what I got.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 03:57 PM

To address the loose pinion\input shaft bearings I sanded the housings with some worn out 80 grit on a nice flat piece of hardwood, applying pressure at the area of the pinion shaft bearings. It will have just a slight taper, trying not to take as much material off the rest of the housing but nice and flat. Sand until the bearings fit tight.

Next I drilled through the housing screw holes so the screws wouldn't bottom out and strip, and allow a 4-40 x3/8" socket head.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 04:07 PM

I am going to use all Associated parts so to use the TC3 steering knuckles I am going to fit a 1/4" piece of round aluminum in the axle with a .111" hole in it.
The axle housing is .230 and needs to be enlarged. At the same time I need it to extend out more so the CVD's fit better.

Here is a pic that shows it on paper.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 04:14 PM

First I extend the hole to .250" dremel or file making an oval shape, then work the sides to about .245" or so the I used a 1/4" round file to finish the hole and make it round. It need to be a nice tight press fit.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 04:18 PM

I made some 1/4 x 1/8 busings with a .111 hole and pressed them in the housings.

danielk · 09-09-2007, 05:28 PM

genius. i will be watchin this one.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 09:30 PM

The housings are ready to be put together. I built MIP drives using B4 stub axles and RC10/B2/B3 bones.
Lubed and thread lock the joint per MIP instructions.
Assembled the steering block per Associated instructions, making sure to use the crush tube between the bearings. Because of the way the hex is installed it will have the pressure from tightening the wheel on it.

I like to cut a new slot on the flat side of the hex, at first I used a 1/16" drill bit it's a lot of work. Then bought a 1/16" ball mill bit and milled them.....much better.

2 thick MIP shims then the hex and fit the 1/16" pin in last.
For a wider width 1 crush tube 2 thick shims the pin and then the hex.

The roll pins that come in Associated kits and MIP drives to secure the hexes don't hold up to crawling stresses and break real soon. I cut pins from 1/16" piano wire.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 09:43 PM

I could only find 1704 nitro spools, I cut them down to the 1703 electric size, the slot for the cross pins on the spool out drives need to be in just past the bearing so the bone will fit deep. Also the cross pins on the bones are a little wide, I grind them down even with the spool out drive.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 09:52 PM

I found that shimming the gears is not needed the gear mesh, bearing preload on the spool and backlash for these parts is slightly tight.
The area on the back side of the pinion between the bearing is a good place to adjust the gear mesh, usually just cutting the bumps and flashing off the pinion gear moving the pinion out, will be just right.

Mike Poulson · 09-09-2007, 10:03 PM

I bolted the housings together with 10 4-40x3/8" socket head screws.

I needed a little clearance to get more steering angle on the front. Cutting some of the housing and some from the steering arm.

I spent a couple of weeks messing around with the first axle build, I was able to duplicate the second one in 3 hours.

mxdomzy · 09-09-2007, 11:03 PM

Nice!!
I like how you clearanced the c's and the insides of the knuckles.
CVDs seem like they would be invincible.

K_B · 09-10-2007, 02:06 AM

Aren't you the same guy that made those crazy high-clearance axles with TC3 diff cases? I was hoping you'd do something with these axles.

Mike Poulson · 09-10-2007, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K_B

Aren't you the same guy that made those crazy high-clearance axles with TC3 diff cases? I was hoping you'd do something with these axles.

Yes, I make those crazy high clearance axles

I am thinking of making a scale rig and needed some quality axles. These PTI axles use all the same parts as my comp rig, so that will be cool.
A set of my high clearance axles made it the top 5 at the Nats

MikeP

K_B · 09-10-2007, 04:46 PM

I just noticed that! Congratulations! I love how everyone talks about how easy the gears strip and yet, they held together well enough for a top 5 finish at Moab.

Looks like I need to go shopping for some CVDs now.

jdawg53 · 09-10-2007, 05:15 PM

Maybe I missed it, but what cvd's did you use?

Mike Poulson · 09-10-2007, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdawg53

Maybe I missed it, but what cvd's did you use?

RC10\B2\B3 bones with B4axles

aggressivellc · 09-10-2007, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Poulson

I am going to use all Associated parts so to use the TC3 steering knuckles I am going to fit a 1/4" piece of round aluminum in the axle with a .111" hole in it.
The axle housing is .230 and needs to be enlarged. At the same time I need it to extend out more so the CVD's fit better.

Here is a pic that shows it on paper.

So the CVDs listed are not a direct fit. Right?

Mike Poulson · 09-10-2007, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggressivellc

So the CVDs listed are not a direct fit. Right?

Right, for the steering knuckles I used they were just a tad long.

666 · 11-18-2007, 06:23 AM

Any updates on this build?

Mike Poulson · 11-20-2007, 08:04 AM

No updates, been looking for parts to build a trail rig but nothing yet.

Mike

09-09-2007, 03:45 PM	#1
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	PTI Axle Build I ordered a PTI excluding the parts I wasn't going to use and here is what I got. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 03:57 PM	#2
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	To address the loose pinion\input shaft bearings I sanded the housings with some worn out 80 grit on a nice flat piece of hardwood, applying pressure at the area of the pinion shaft bearings. It will have just a slight taper, trying not to take as much material off the rest of the housing but nice and flat. Sand until the bearings fit tight. Next I drilled through the housing screw holes so the screws wouldn't bottom out and strip, and allow a 4-40 x3/8" socket head. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 04:07 PM	#3
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I am going to use all Associated parts so to use the TC3 steering knuckles I am going to fit a 1/4" piece of round aluminum in the axle with a .111" hole in it. The axle housing is .230 and needs to be enlarged. At the same time I need it to extend out more so the CVD's fit better. Here is a pic that shows it on paper. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 04:14 PM	#4
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	First I extend the hole to .250" dremel or file making an oval shape, then work the sides to about .245" or so the I used a 1/4" round file to finish the hole and make it round. It need to be a nice tight press fit. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 04:18 PM	#5
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I made some 1/4 x 1/8 busings with a .111 hole and pressed them in the housings. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 05:28 PM	#6
danielk RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Pasadena Posts: 1,118	genius. i will be watchin this one.

09-09-2007, 09:30 PM	#7
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	The housings are ready to be put together. I built MIP drives using B4 stub axles and RC10/B2/B3 bones. Lubed and thread lock the joint per MIP instructions. Assembled the steering block per Associated instructions, making sure to use the crush tube between the bearings. Because of the way the hex is installed it will have the pressure from tightening the wheel on it. I like to cut a new slot on the flat side of the hex, at first I used a 1/16" drill bit it's a lot of work. Then bought a 1/16" ball mill bit and milled them.....much better. 2 thick MIP shims then the hex and fit the 1/16" pin in last. For a wider width 1 crush tube 2 thick shims the pin and then the hex. The roll pins that come in Associated kits and MIP drives to secure the hexes don't hold up to crawling stresses and break real soon. I cut pins from 1/16" piano wire. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 09:43 PM	#8
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I could only find 1704 nitro spools, I cut them down to the 1703 electric size, the slot for the cross pins on the spool out drives need to be in just past the bearing so the bone will fit deep. Also the cross pins on the bones are a little wide, I grind them down even with the spool out drive. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 09:52 PM	#9
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I found that shimming the gears is not needed the gear mesh, bearing preload on the spool and backlash for these parts is slightly tight. The area on the back side of the pinion between the bearing is a good place to adjust the gear mesh, usually just cutting the bumps and flashing off the pinion gear moving the pinion out, will be just right. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 10:03 PM	#10
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I bolted the housings together with 10 4-40x3/8" socket head screws. I needed a little clearance to get more steering angle on the front. Cutting some of the housing and some from the steering arm. I spent a couple of weeks messing around with the first axle build, I was able to duplicate the second one in 3 hours. Attached Images

09-09-2007, 11:03 PM	#11
mxdomzy Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Reno 911 Posts: 37	Nice!! I like how you clearanced the c's and the insides of the knuckles. CVDs seem like they would be invincible.

09-10-2007, 02:06 AM	#12
K_B I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2,048	Aren't you the same guy that made those crazy high-clearance axles with TC3 diff cases? I was hoping you'd do something with these axles.

09-10-2007, 04:46 PM	#14
K_B I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2005 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 2,048	I just noticed that! Congratulations! I love how everyone talks about how easy the gears strip and yet, they held together well enough for a top 5 finish at Moab. Looks like I need to go shopping for some CVDs now.

09-10-2007, 05:15 PM	#15
jdawg53 Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Illinois Posts: 809	Maybe I missed it, but what cvd's did you use?

11-18-2007, 06:23 AM	#19
666 MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 10,939	Any updates on this build?

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11-20-2007, 08:04 AM	#20
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	No updates, been looking for parts to build a trail rig but nothing yet. Mike

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Thread: PTI Axle Build