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Old 04-01-2016, 09:10 PM   #21
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Default Re: Rally!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8cture View Post
its carbon fiber chassis though. I wouldn't think that would hold up to off road well. Rather have an aluminum chassis for rally.
Good point, yeah I don't think the team associated chassis protector would help much but maybe a layer of thin lexan would work
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:58 PM   #22
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Default Re: Rally!!

if you are a rally America fan, are you going to put any livery by SRTUSA? I painted mine as David Higgins...
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by rally racer #75 View Post
if you are a rally America fan, are you going to put any livery by SRTUSA? I painted mine as David Higgins...
I'm a huge rally America fan!!! I went to my first event here in Michigan last year I would love to do a grc paint job or the rally America style no matter what it will be a subaru
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:14 AM   #24
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Default Re: Rally!!

I think that if you already own an HPI WR8 Flux, you will be disappointed with any of the 1/10th scale offerings from Tamiya or MST.

When you say "scale," there are really a few things at play here:

-scale looks alone, then Tamiya wins hands down on polycarbonate body mold detail and additional detail like wings/wipers/etc... compared to HPI

-scale dynamics (how a car leans, jumps, absorbs bumps) is a HUGE topic that people generally have a poor understanding

Starting with "scale" speed, for 10th scale, the speed factor* is actually roughly 1/3 the speed of the full size vehicle you wish to emulate not 1/10. In other words, if the top speed of a real car was 100 mph, the scale top speed would be 33 mph if the scale is 1/10th. This is the easy part.

To make a car "look" scale in real time (i.e. how you see it as you're driving) is nearly impossible. What the drifting community has done is reduce traction to an extreme degree that it looks pretty close to real-life in terms of slip angles only: the car still has comically fast steering inputs, the shocks rebound to fast, etc...
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Old 04-27-2016, 03:24 PM   #25
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Default Re: Rally!!

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Originally Posted by Lost_Frequency View Post
I'm a huge rally America fan!!! I went to my first event here in Michigan last year I would love to do a grc paint job or the rally America style no matter what it will be a subaru
nice! so you went to rally in the 100 acre?
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:00 PM   #26
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I love my Kyosho DRX-VE, it's 1/9th scale but is a great performer and not as "scale" as some Tamiya bodies, but I'd rather have the performance driving a rally car than looks of a scaled out Tamiya, shelf queen. Because really if you are racing it around like a rally and driving hard the scale-ness wont last...

The kyosho has poor support for the vehicle though, is the only problem, and nobody makes 1/9th scale bodies, downer....


I love my DF-03a from Tamiya, it looks awesome, but it just cant perform like the Kyosho 4s monster that I LOVE....


my 2 cents....
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:36 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by rally racer #75 View Post
nice! so you went to rally in the 100 acre?
No we have the winter snow drift rally in Atlanta Michigan
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:08 PM   #28
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Default Re: Rally!!

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Originally Posted by TheAxialNut View Post
I love my Kyosho DRX-VE, it's 1/9th scale but is a great performer and not as "scale" as some Tamiya bodies, but I'd rather have the performance driving a rally car than looks of a scaled out Tamiya, shelf queen. Because really if you are racing it around like a rally and driving hard the scale-ness wont last...

The kyosho has poor support for the vehicle though, is the only problem, and nobody makes 1/9th scale bodies, downer....


I love my DF-03a from Tamiya, it looks awesome, but it just cant perform like the Kyosho 4s monster that I LOVE....


my 2 cents....
That's what I had before. Really enjoyed it. Generally speaking, being based from an 1/8th scale buggy, it was fairly robust as well. The only downside was the bodies were expensive.

I wasn't too big on fabricating back then, but what I would do now is actually braze a front bumper that would extend all the way to the Lexan body, shape it exactly to match the contour, and possibly braze some m3/m4 nuts to actually bolt the body to the bumper. That should prevent the dreaded cracking at the top of the front fenders.
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