Yet another XV-01 shock question.

[Sagitta]

Hey fellas,

So after a little hiatus from RC (about 3+ years), I've kinda gotten back into it.
And now I have an XV-01 on the way, and reading threads on here helped make that decision.


Anyways, I plan on putting on the higher shock towers and longer shocks.
I've been trying to find a suitable set of shocks and I've come across the CC-01 alloy shocks by Tamiya #54541.
From what I can gather they're 70-71mm long, I'm assuming these are alloy versions of the mini CVA shocks.
Has anyone used these before?
Looks like they have more travel than the mini CVA.

But the Losi Mini-8ight shocks also seem to be decent and suitable but are slightly longer I believe?

Finding 2wd buggy front shocks seems more difficult than it used to be, which I think would also be ideal.

I'm not too interesting in big bore, seems it's already tight for space without them up front.
Nor do I want to spend a great deal of money, it's just for having fun, not racing.


I see people putting on up to 80mm+ shocks and my question here is, does the chassis bottom out or the shocks?
I'd much prefer the chassis bottoming out.
From pictures I've seen, the arms are still angling down while the shocks only have a few mm of travel left.

At the moment I'm leaning towards the Tamiya shocks I mentioned above.


Thanks.

[haplm]

Originally Posted by Sagitta

Hey fellas,

So after a little hiatus from RC (about 3+ years), I've kinda gotten back into it.
And now I have an XV-01 on the way, and reading threads on here helped make that decision.


Anyways, I plan on putting on the higher shock towers and longer shocks.
I've been trying to find a suitable set of shocks and I've come across the CC-01 alloy shocks by Tamiya #54541.
From what I can gather they're 70-71mm long, I'm assuming these are alloy versions of the mini CVA shocks.
Has anyone used these before?
Looks like they have more travel than the mini CVA.

But the Losi Mini-8ight shocks also seem to be decent and suitable but are slightly longer I believe?

Finding 2wd buggy front shocks seems more difficult than it used to be, which I think would also be ideal.

I'm not too interesting in big bore, seems it's already tight for space without them up front.
Nor do I want to spend a great deal of money, it's just for having fun, not racing.


I see people putting on up to 80mm+ shocks and my question here is, does the chassis bottom out or the shocks?
I'd much prefer the chassis bottoming out.
From pictures I've seen, the arms are still angling down while the shocks only have a few mm of travel left.

At the moment I'm leaning towards the Tamiya shocks I mentioned above.


Thanks.

There have to be custom towers if you want to use 85mm shocks. I have them on my car, but that's only because I'm racing it in dirt. If you plan to have just fun on pavement, I would say that the standard 61mm shocks should work. If not, long dampers (ie. 75mm) are plenty.

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[Sagitta]

Originally Posted by haplm

There have to be custom towers if you want to use 85mm shocks. I have them on my car, but that's only because I'm racing it in dirt. If you plan to have just fun on pavement, I would say that the standard 61mm shocks should work. If not, long dampers (ie. 75mm) are plenty.

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Thanks.

I'm only going as far as the Tamiya long damper setup, but would like better shocks than the plastic CVA mini ones and seems it's a compromise with lengths.

Do you know if the chassis bottoms out before the shocks with 75mm shocks.
I can't imagine there would be much in it between them and 70mm, the travel length would be more important.
Looking at pictures, it seems the Tamiya CC-01 alloy shocks have a longer travel than the mini CVA.
And they're about the same price.

Also, how fragile are the reinforced hinge pin holders?
I'm going to make an order for the J&JJ and K&KK parts trees, and replace with alloy as they break.
Also grabbing the slipper clutch and a Tamiya high torque servo saver.

Can the drive train handle a 10.5T motor with some reliability?
Might grab a 13.5T down the road.
How long a sensor cable is needed, I think I have a spare 200mm somewhere.
Still going through what I have after all being chucked in boxes.


My biggest dissapointment for a kit of this price and level is that it doesn't come with a slipper clutch.
CVDs I can kinda cope without, as the standard bones are steel, but would still be nice.
And it's about time Tamiya got with the times and started using hex head screws.

[Blaster 75]

- The reinforced suspension mounts are just as fragile as the standard parts.
-The drivetrain will handle a 10.5 all day long with a reinforced belt.
-I used a 275mm sensor wire with the ESC at the front of the electronics box.
-With long shocks and raised towers, I would assume that the chassis bottoms first. Those Tamiya shocks that you found will probably be just right, and will probably make finding the right springs easier, too.
-I'm not convinced that a slipper is necessary- mine shows little evidence of slipping when set the way I like it, and I've had no driveline failures. The CVAs are necessary, at least in the front, for maximum steering angle.

[haplm]

Originally Posted by Sagitta

Do you know if the chassis bottoms out before the shocks with 75mm shocks.
I can't imagine there would be much in it between them and 70mm, the travel length would be more important.

Chassis generally bottoms out first, but this also depends on shocks. Not all 75mm shocks have the same travel.

For Example Gmade shocks will bottom before the chassis. Especially if you use supplied bump stops. If you don't use bump stops, you will ruin diaphragms. So the only Usable Gmades are aeration ones, as they don't have diaphragms.

I'm using TA big bore, and those are very nice. They fit, barely, but they do. And have slightly longer travel compared To Gmade.

As long as you are not planning to jump, I think you are fine without the clutch. I have the car for roughly a year, and I'm still using the original, not reinforced belt, and I don't see any damage on the rest of the drivetrain.

My race car has 17.5t motor with slightly higher gearing, my development car is using 13.5t motor with standard gearing. Both are 2pole LRP Vectors, one is X11, the newer one K7. nice thing on these is, that they are sensored, 2pole (so you don't need off Road ESC), and closed (so dirt doesn't come in). Compared to high end 540 racing motors, they are weak, But IMO they are more than enough for (racing) the car (rally).

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[Sagitta]

Originally Posted by Blaster 75

- The reinforced suspension mounts are just as fragile as the standard parts.
-The drivetrain will handle a 10.5 all day long with a reinforced belt.
-I used a 275mm sensor wire with the ESC at the front of the electronics box.
-With long shocks and raised towers, I would assume that the chassis bottoms first. Those Tamiya shocks that you found will probably be just right, and will probably make finding the right springs easier, too.
-I'm not convinced that a slipper is necessary- mine shows little evidence of slipping when set the way I like it, and I've had no driveline failures. The CVAs are necessary, at least in the front, for maximum steering angle.

Ah, bummer, was hoping they'd be somewhat better than the standard plastic.
Is the yeah racing alloy parts any decent, or stick the Tamiya?

I'll add a 300mm sensor wire to the list then.

Half the reason I'd like the slipper is the 48p gears.

I think I already had the front CV shafts in the cart.
Again, is the Yeah Racing any good?

Originally Posted by haplm

Chassis generally bottoms out first, but this also depends on shocks. Not all 75mm shocks have the same travel.

For Example Gmade shocks will bottom before the chassis. Especially if you use supplied bump stops. If you don't use bump stops, you will ruin diaphragms. So the only Usable Gmades are aeration ones, as they don't have diaphragms.

I'm using TA big bore, and those are very nice. They fit, barely, but they do. And have slightly longer travel compared To Gmade.

As long as you are not planning to jump, I think you are fine without the clutch. I have the car for roughly a year, and I'm still using the original, not reinforced belt, and I don't see any damage on the rest of the drivetrain.

My race car has 17.5t motor with slightly higher gearing, my development car is using 13.5t motor with standard gearing. Both are 2pole LRP Vectors, one is X11, the newer one K7. nice thing on these is, that they are sensored, 2pole (so you don't need off Road ESC), and closed (so dirt doesn't come in). Compared to high end 540 racing motors, they are weak, But IMO they are more than enough for (racing) the car (rally).

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Wicked, that's the info I was looking for.
I was kinda considering the Gmade 75mm, I'll pass on them now.
I'll stick with getting those Tamiya shocks.

If I had a spare set of RB5/RB6 front shocks I'd near be tempted to just use them instead, I'm not gonna pull them off, as nice as they'd be.

I think the drive line is a bit stronger than I'm expecting it to be.


Thanks again fellas.

[haplm]

Originally Posted by Sagitta

Is the yeah racing alloy parts any decent, or stick the Tamiya?

I have their suspension mounts, and they are perfectly fine. I also have their on-road setup station (v2), which I like as well. Besides that, I can't comment.

[Sagitta]

Fair enough.

I remember buy a set of their shocks years ago and they were unbelievably nasty.
But just looking at the pics of their products it seems they've stepped it up a bit, but that can be deceiving.

[Sagitta]

So I picked up my kit.

Nearly done, however I had an issue with the screws provided, while there were more than enough to put it together with, but almost all were the same length.
Where it calls for 3x8 or 3x10mm screws in the gearbox and suspension and such, I had already ran out of them, especially the countersunk ones.

Other than that the kit seems to be going together alright.

[windycityblues]

I ended up using a set of the gmade xd diaphragm shocks iirc 65mm with the tamiya long travel towers and they've been great.

[Sagitta]

Bit of an update...

I ended up getting #54670 along with the long damper towers.
With the long rod end (72mm eye to eye), it's almost identical compared to standard but with heaps more travel.
With the chassis bottomed out, there's about 5mm or so of up travel left, and about 2 or 3mm extra down travel also.
I think the shock had 19mm travel, I'll have to recheck.

They're still a tight fit with the gear cover though, and they're standard bore, I can only imagine how tight the Gmade ones are.
They came with white 3 hole pistons, I think they need 2 hole, they don't pack up at all.
I'm running 30w front and 25w rear with TRF201 front springs (hard in front and med in rear), which for on road is still a bit too soft, will be getting AE B4 front spring set soon.
I also have the sway bars installed, med front and soft rear.
Mine has seen mostly asphalt use though, it's been fun just throwing it around, not drifting, it just looks kinda like an actual rally car sliding around and biting in then pulling out.

I'm in need of a new front bumper and an aluminium front hinge pin holder.
When the bumper breaks, those plastic holders become very fragile.

[windycityblues]

Yeah the gmades are a tight fit. I can't adjust preload without unbolting the shock


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[Sagitta]

Ah, I suspected there would have to be an issue, even if it is a minor one.

I'll get some pictures up of mine soon enough.

[Sagitta]

Some pics, last one of the shocks themselves is a bit bad though, was off my phone.

https://goo.gl/photos/hiWajeSjHGHZ92TKA
https://goo.gl/photos/n3ZhwkvFEy4J26WZ9
https://goo.gl/photos/2hHsvXtrzc3i9EEx9
https://goo.gl/photos/Y8CbitA4ZdGcsaF79
https://goo.gl/photos/oT8CLdXqFxphrTgYA
https://goo.gl/photos/7QBHdN6K9nv952Hf7
https://goo.gl/photos/FZWwsKJhteQWm99V8

[bjammin]

What springs are you running in these pics?

[MrWinterkorn]

He's using the Tamiya TRF201 Front Spring Set (54221)