10-13-2009, 10:18 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
| Papabash's Bully Build
Okay, so let me start by saying I'm an old racer, so I'm used to pulling the trigger and letting 'er rip! That doesn't work real well in crawlers, though, and I have broken my fair share of drivetrain parts on my Ax10. I'm getting better at easing into the throttle, but old habits die hard! Anyway, I guess Jarod (Jpcustomrcs) felt bad for me and offered to help me build a Bully. I figure it makes sense; no driveshafts or tranny to mess up, so why not? Well, he ordered me a set of Bully2's and after giving his rig a test drive, I decided to go with his HaVoc chassis. I'm not sure if it's the torsion or just how he has it set up, but it is SMOOTH! Been doing a little shopping on here as well, and now I finally have all my parts together and ready for assembly. Time is kinda scarce lately, so this won't be a fast moving build, but I will try to keep it updated as I make progress. First thing I'll have to do is tear the axles down and re-lube and loctite them. Suggestions will be welcome as well, so don't be shy. Here's a run-down of what I have so far:
Last edited by papabash; 08-16-2010 at 08:24 PM. |
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10-13-2009, 10:40 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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Thats a great list of parts... |
10-14-2009, 05:47 AM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sin City
Posts: 1,332
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Damn its a winner in a box, i need one of those boxes next! 2x |
10-15-2009, 06:16 AM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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10-15-2009, 07:12 AM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Sin City
Posts: 1,332
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10-16-2009, 06:38 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Out in the country
Posts: 352
| Lower Links Like the looks of those lower links, Can't wait to see more pics. |
10-18-2009, 11:14 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Finally got some shop time and was able to do a bit more. After re-lubing and putting loc-tite on the axles, the next thing I did was bevel the bottom edges of the skid. These new skids are great! I really like the center tabs for the link bolts to go into; gives them the support they need to prevent them from bending. I also roughed up the motor mounting face of both axles to help prevent the motors from slipping and throwing my gear mesh off when they come down on the rocks. Got the shocks mocked up for now, still need to fill them with oil. Fastened the links, everything looks like it is about where I want it. Still need to do the steering arms and servo mount, and assemble the wheels/foams/tires, and I'll have a roller! |
10-20-2009, 05:14 PM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Filled the shocks and re-mounted them, smooth as silk. Going with the heavy springs on front (to keep that torsion thing going) and light springs on back first; may change later after driving it. Didn't like the wimpy little ends on the rears, though, so I took the ball ends off and exchanged them for stock axial link ends. Perfect fit, went right on. Much beefier and didn't change the length enough to matter. Pic below shows stock shock on top and modified shock below. The camera angle actually makes the modified shock look longer than it is. Should hold up better now to my overzealous throttle finger. |
10-20-2009, 05:21 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: laying low
Posts: 2,508
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sweet build! looks like it's coming together real nice! |
10-26-2009, 01:58 PM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Not much new to report, time has been hard to come by lately. I did install a 13 tooth pinion for the front axle. I ran the overdrive gears in my Ax10, and really liked how it helped with both steering and climbing, so I thought I'd do the same thing with the Bully. Don't know with 2 motors how much benefit it will be in steering, but hopefully it will limit the clod stall some anyway.
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10-26-2009, 08:10 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Finally got a little bit of time tonight, not a lot of progress, but it helps. After reading the responses to my "Light weight wheels vs traditional heavy on a Bully" thread, I decided to ditch my Mayhem CDP's in favor of lighter options. Even empty, the CDP's weighed in at 8.34 oz each. I had some new DNA Assassins which tip the scale at 5.11 oz each, so I mounted some Nova's Ark dual stage foams and white Rovers to them for my back-up shoes. The fronts have 4 oz added to each of them. Went to the mailbox and found my new Eritex solids waiting for me. These will be my primary set of wheels, they weigh in at only 3.7 oz each, a savings of 4.64 oz on each wheel compared to the CDP's. That is over 1 lb of weight saved, worth the $, I think. The Eritex wheels look great; I am anxious to get them mounted up as well. I ordered Berg offset for the rear and Axial for the front. I like the narrower rear end for pulling through gates. They will get another set of Nova's Ark foams and Panther Leopards. I'm thinking 3 oz added to each of the fronts sounds about right to start with. Last edited by papabash; 10-27-2009 at 11:09 AM. |
10-27-2009, 05:26 PM | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned.
Posts: 2,011
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I think with the right foam setup you don't even need to add weight to the Eritex wheels. I run the comp heavies with rovers and the even lighter dirty dozen wheels with X-locks. with all the weight of the Bully's, motors, etc. and the springs set right, I see no need to add weight and can keep the rig lighter. I'm going to try some stock Berg wheels in the front to widen mine and see if I can stop hitting the shocks and links.
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10-27-2009, 06:52 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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OUCH! That's some serious rubbing! I wondered about going with no added wheel weight, but I thought with the HaVoc chassis It may be necessary in order to keep my 60-40 weight ratio. I'm running lipos now, so the battery weight isn't significant even if I put it on the front. Definitely worth thinking about, I still haven't mounted them up yet.
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10-30-2009, 01:00 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: behind the wheel of a monster truck...
Posts: 2,878
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Awesome build you got going,nice parts list for sure!!Can't wait to see it done and on the rocks!! |
11-03-2009, 04:01 PM | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
| Me either! We have our last comp of the season this Saturday. After it's over, I can start tearing down my Ax10. The Mamba Max and Futaba servo will go to the Bully, and the rest will be fodder for my Tough Truck I will be building for spring. Hopefully I can get this thing going pretty soon and catch some nice days to hit the rocks before winter sets in.
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07-25-2010, 04:59 PM | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Well, I pretty much let this thread die, but thought it was time to bring it back to life. I have tried just about every combination of equipment and setups I could imagine with this rig, and have it pretty much where I want it now. Current setup is running my CDP's in front with only 1 ball in each, Eritex adjustable offset wheels in back set to narrow, and a Holmes esc. Nova foams in the rear, and ProLine dual stage in the fronts. Still running the Futaba servo now in a Xirtic mount, and the JP Warrior motors. Rear drive crapped out on my Punk dig unit, and the RC4WD just didn't cut it, so am now running the old school switches till I get my Punk unit fixed/replaced. REALLY liking the switches, but the wires get in the way. Anyway, here's a shot of it in it's current configuration except with Eritex solids in back instead of the adjustables: What I love most about the HaVoc chassis is that it can be run in so many different ways, depending on your style of driving. I am currently running the HaVoc in a way which I have never seen anyone else do; I have the torsion locked out with a brace in the front with 2 shocks set up full droop. The rear is running a traditional sprung setup. I never thought I would like droop on a comp rig, but one night I was just messing around with trying new things and had these laying around already set up for droop, so I gave them a shot. Took it out to the garage on my test course and the difference was amazing! I have now taken 2nd place twice in our local comps running this setup. Brian (bbeaty) usually takes first in our club, and just taking 2nd to him made me feel pretty darned good. At least now I know the truck is up to the task, I just need to improve my driving! Here's a shot of the front with the droop shocks and brace: Jarod (JP Custom RC's) asked me to try out a set of his new high clearance rear links he is coming out with, so I put a pair on a couple nights ago and have been beating on them pretty good to make sure they will hold up. You can see by the pics of my body that I don't hold back when driving. I beat on my rig like a red-headed stepchild! That's why I'm a Bully fan; it just keeps coming back for more! I guess Jarod figured if the links will hold up to my driving, they should be okay. While I was at it, I cut the bottom of my chassis to slant the skid, and cut the sides a bit so the new links would clear: Easy to do, and well worth it. Length of the new links was spot-on, I am running at exactly 12.5" compressed, as per the rules. Jarod has been hard at work on re-designing the HaVoc and Hellstrom chassis, giving them slanted skids, along with other updates. The new chassis will accept the new high clearance links without modifications. As you can see, there is plenty of room now for break-overs: And without the body: Looks like I got a bit carried away, I think I'd prefer about 1/4" - 1/2" less here just to keep my COG lower. I'll work with the shocks and upper links and see what I come up with. And a few actual driving shots (not posers) on my garage course: I'm very pleased with the new setup, I can now do the break-overs with ease that required some careful throttle work before. I just need to get my lid slammed a bit lower (might wait till I do a new one, this one's about shot!) and drop my COG just a hair. Of course, I'm never totally satisfied, I'm already planning on the machined axles and a I have a couple of new steering setups to try out. Last edited by papabash; 07-26-2010 at 11:45 AM. |
07-25-2010, 07:46 PM | #17 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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Looks nice... You and my driving are a lot a like.... |
07-25-2010, 09:35 PM | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
| Yeah, except I seem to be beating you lately! lol Last edited by papabash; 07-26-2010 at 11:43 AM. |
07-27-2010, 05:20 AM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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Here is the pic's of your rig from the last Comp... |
07-27-2010, 05:50 AM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Thanks, but you could have left out that last one with the ugly guy driving! |
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