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Thread: Light weight wheels vs traditional heavy on a Bully

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Old 10-19-2009, 06:42 AM   #1
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Default Light weight wheels vs traditional heavy on a Bully

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of building my Bully2's and am having a tough time deciding on my wheels. I have a set of Mayhem CDP's I bought for the build, and have a new set of DNA Assassins which are lighter, and have wondered about going to delrin. Regular plastic scares me because of stripping the hexes, but I've never had a problem with delrin. My first choice would be SLW's, but I've busted the bank already on everything else, and can't swing them now. I am running a Futaba servo with 425 oz of torque, so steering is not a problem either way. For those of you who have run both heavy and light wheels with your Bully, which do you prefer, and why? Is there enough difference to worry about, or should I just stick with the CDP's? Help me make this decision! Thanks, Dave
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:12 AM   #2
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I tried out the lightweigthed RPMs this weekend and i'm not sure if i will change back to heavy weighted wheels. Weight saving on a Bully rig isn't that easy and light weighted wheels are an easy way to go. For example the RPMs are under 1 oz. per rim and my "old" Aluminum Bead Locks are about 4 oz. each.
In my opinion you have to practice with both "Versions" and make a decision what's your way to go.

Greetings Frank
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:18 AM   #3
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I have tried both and prefer a lighter set of wheels. At present I am running RC4WD Super Narrow beadlocks. These are around 2.5 oz. with rings. The offset is the best I have found for the Bullys. I am running no added weight in the rear and 3 oz. each wheel in the front. This seems to be the best set up for me thus far.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:18 AM   #4
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Thanks for the input so far. I know in the end I will probably need to try both, but I thought it a good idea to draw from the experience of those who have gone before and give myself a head start toward the proper setup. Since this is my first comp moa, driving style is so radically different from what I'm used to with shafties, that I don't have to worry about changing what I'm used to or what has worked for me in the past, since I have no past with moa's. Guess you could say I'm a 48 year old moa virgin!

Last edited by papabash; 10-20-2009 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:21 AM   #5
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Reducing rotating mass is always a good thing. With the Bully’s being very heavy a lighter wheel should not affect performance. Your CVD's might even last longer. Think about it, when is it easiest to break an axel or CVD. At least in my case it has been when the wheels are spinning fast and I do a quick reverse, as to recover from a role over. I have a set of heavy Vanquish wheels, on a berg, and I have snapped more CVD's with them compared to using my lighter stock wheels. Actuality I have never snapped an axel with the stock wheels. Bent from falls.

High torque motors + 3s lipos + heavy bully’s + heavy Frn wheels + traction = a weak link (the axels, CVD's , and gears)
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:47 AM   #6
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I have been up in the air with this decision as well. I am going to try mayhem 7's and rc4wd plastic rims.
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McTwist View Post
I have tried both and prefer a lighter set of wheels. At present I am running RC4WD Super Narrow beadlocks. These are around 2.5 oz. with rings. The offset is the best I have found for the Bullys. I am running no added weight in the rear and 3 oz. each wheel in the front. This seems to be the best set up for me thus far.
Whats your overall width lets say ring to ring?
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Old 10-19-2009, 11:54 AM   #8
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I was a big time heavy wheel believer but I'm starting to see the light..I like the light weight wheels...I been running RC4WD lowboyz beadlocks in my wifes bully comp rig...I took the pedulems out of the rears and left them in the fronts...it runs real nice with these compared to loaded VP DH's I ran before..it "falls" at lot more controlled on BIG drops and does not seem to wash out up front like it did with real heavy wheels..the lowbozy are acutally a REALLY light weight wheel with the weights out of them
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docfire View Post
High torque motors + 3s lipos + heavy bully’s + heavy Frn wheels + traction = a weak link (the axels, CVD's , and gears)
Duly noted and I agree on the weight vs. snapping parts issue. Personally the only reason I run a little weight in the front is to move the weight basis more forward seeing my battery is on the back. If I can find a good location for the battery up front I may remove the weights from the front wheels.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowngreen View Post
Whats your overall width lets say ring to ring?
I'll measure tonight and post it up.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:10 PM   #11
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hmmm wonder about the mayhem 7's up front and plastic wheels in the rear...
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8z2luze View Post
hmmm wonder about the mayhem 7's up front and plastic wheels in the rear...
That might be worth a try.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McTwist View Post
I'll measure tonight and post it up.
Cool please do .
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h8z2luze View Post
I have been up in the air with this decision as well. I am going to try mayhem 7's and rc4wd plastic rims.
I thought about the plastic RC4WD wheels but the website says "Do not use this wheel for competition events ". I'd like to see some feedback on these wheels.

Last edited by McTwist; 10-19-2009 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McTwist View Post
I thought about the plastic RC4WD wheels but the website says "Do not use this wheel for competition events ". I'd like to see some feed on these wheels.
I have busted a delrin front rim during a comp. There is no way I would trust a plastic rim. yes, it was driving that broke it, but thats not the point
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Old 10-19-2009, 03:19 PM   #16
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well I just traded them for some other plastic rims lol. The jconcept tense
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:57 PM   #17
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A guy at my local club has a set of the rc4wd clear plastic bead locks. They lasted about 5min before the hex on the bead lock cracked like glass and started to strip out.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:14 PM   #18
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i am going to run some snipers with no extra weight on the with my bully's. you will have good enough weight with the axles and you wont loose much wheelspeed or torque. it just really depends on your style of driving.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowngreen View Post
Whats your overall width lets say ring to ring?
With the RC4WDs I am at 9.875" outside ring to outside ring.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasmonkeyboy View Post
A guy at my local club has a set of the rc4wd clear plastic bead locks. They lasted about 5min before the hex on the bead lock cracked like glass and started to strip out.
Good to know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
i am going to run some snipers with no extra weight on the with my bully's. you will have good enough weight with the axles and you wont loose much wheelspeed or torque. it just really depends on your style of driving.
The DNA Snipers didn't have enough off set for me. I tried them and the outside to outside ring was less than 9.5". These wheels are super heavy maybe too heavy.
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