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-   -   Krakkers F-10 TAG. new ground. (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/rc4wd-bully/205916-krakkers-f-10-tag-new-ground.html)

Krakker 10-20-2009 04:33 PM

Krakkers F-10 TAG.
 
9 Attachment(s)
Been experimenting with shocks, link placement and planning out the eletronics placement with in the chassis. Got some cool new shaft mounted springs that are giving a bit more clearence at the tire altho it still rubs the body. They are so close in strength you can't tell them apart from a losi white outer spring. I'm running Aluminum big bores up front and Slash/Tmaxx XL shocks on the rears. The rears are little longer which is fine since it'll flex more than the front. With the shaft mounted springs, it also limits travel which is right at the level I was aiming for. Specs so far:

Tag, MOA chassis.
V2 Bully's
Integy 45T motors.
FXR. ESC w/ CC BEC.
Servo unknown as of yet.
micro servo w/ mini switches for dig.
Eritex comp heavies as well as Dirty dozen wheels.
An aray of tires from X-locs, Rovers, Chisels and cougars.
Links are being made by R2j Kustoms. Delrin Supers (bent) for the rear.

so far test flexing and clearence is good. I might have to have some wideners or change the offset of the wheels tho.

papabash 10-20-2009 04:59 PM

Looking good! Like your shock set-up. I tried putting my YeahRacing shocks upside down but they were binding up and I had to put them back upright. Anxious to see more, maybe I can steal some ideas for my build! :mrgreen:

slowngreen 10-20-2009 07:22 PM

Looking good Krakker! Whats your width with those rims?

Krakker 10-20-2009 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papabash (Post 2056869)
Looking good! Like your shock set-up. I tried putting my YeahRacing shocks upside down but they were binding up and I had to put them back upright. Anxious to see more, maybe I can steal some ideas for my build! :mrgreen:

The best way to get them upside down is to add the rod end mod.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowngreen (Post 2057179)
Looking good Krakker! Whats your width with those rims?

My Dirty Dozen's and comp heavies are 1 1/4" wide. I might go to 1" wide wheels for the Chisels and Cougars and keep the wider ones for the rovers and X-locs.
I'm looking forward to getting my other parts in to start on the electronics. Hopefully I'll get a few days of warm weather later on to test things out on my practice course.
On a side note, I really love the fact that I don't have to weight the wheels with the Bully's and run the light weigth Eritex wheels. Jeramy, makes some serious crawler stuff. I've comp'd with Jeramy a few times and he's so compititive he'll race you to see who can open the Monster, the fastest. lol, He runs what he makes and he'd give you the shirt off his back to help and teach others. That's why they're the only wheels I'll run.

papabash 10-20-2009 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krakker (Post 2057216)
Jeramy, makes some serious crawler stuff. I've comp'd with Jeramy a few times and he's so compititive he'll race you to see who can open the Monster, the fastest. lol, He runs what he makes and he'd give you the shirt off his back to help and teach others. That's why they're the only wheels I'll run.

Good to know; I just ordered a set of comp solids from him as I am going to lighter wheels also; anxious to get them.

R2j 10-21-2009 08:00 AM

Right on Rory! It's coming along nicely."thumbsup" I like the spring on shaft idea, looks like that will work good for ya.

JTTG 10-21-2009 10:28 AM

Cool! I was planning on running some internal springs, but where'd you find yours?

Krakker 10-21-2009 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JTTG (Post 2058156)
Cool! I was planning on running some internal springs, but where'd you find yours?

with out getting into trouble I can't say but I can send some to you if you'd like. I've got some shorter ones that can be put o the inside and that I use on my droop shocks instead of fuel tubing. They act as a bump stop and don't slide over the rod end like the tubing does.

Jeepial 10-21-2009 02:57 PM

Looking pretty awesome so far Krakker..Can't wait to see how it turns out."thumbsup"

Krakker 11-01-2009 07:12 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Small update, been working on some new link placement and shock set ups. Today I finally tore apart the dig switch setup and remounted them on the top plate I made to fit the TAG chassis. All electronics will be tucked up under the plate when done. (except the motor wires and switches.) I get really anal about wiring and like things neat and tidy, so the goal is to fit the battery in the chassis on the skid when it's all done.
wires for the switches aren't done yet but the pics show how the plate holds it all together. The FXR and BEC will go at the rear and a hole drilled at each end for the motor wires to go through and travel along the top links.

rmdesignworks 11-01-2009 07:54 PM

Krakker,,nice build

R2j 11-02-2009 12:07 PM

You got a package coming:twisted: Sent it today! Looking good Rory!"thumbsup"

Jeepial 11-02-2009 12:35 PM

Lookin pretty awesome so far..Can't wait to see it done and on the rocks.."thumbsup"

Krakker 11-02-2009 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R2j (Post 2080235)
You got a package coming:twisted: Sent it today! Looking good Rory!"thumbsup"

COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can't wait to re-link the lowers and finish the wiring. BTW, how do reccommend bending delrin??? with the motor cases being as big as they are and sitting level, one of the upper links will hit the motor case before max articulation. I've seen others do it with metal/Alum. ones and I'd like to put a small bend in the upper links to avoid contact with the case.
THANKS, to everyone who has helped me on my first MOA build! Been so used to shafties and tuber setups I've hardly had a chance to settle down on one rig to comp with.
I had thought of going with the punkRC dig but knowing some of the places I'd be comping in, I'd hate to have one go "PUFF" like a few others I've seen/heard do and not have the LHS have one. That's why I chose the standard switch setup. simple and it's cheaper to carry spares.

Ty 11-02-2009 08:57 PM

Looks good Rory, PM me when you want to do a test run. I would like to run the yard again. Thanks for the heads up on the sale"thumbsup"

R2j 11-03-2009 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krakker (Post 2080441)
COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL, COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!
Can't wait to re-link the lowers and finish the wiring. BTW, how do reccommend bending delrin??? with the motor cases being as big as they are and sitting level, one of the upper links will hit the motor case before max articulation. I've seen others do it with metal/Alum. ones and I'd like to put a small bend in the upper links to avoid contact with the case.
THANKS, to everyone who has helped me on my first MOA build! Been so used to shafties and tuber setups I've hardly had a chance to settle down on one rig to comp with.
I had thought of going with the punkRC dig but knowing some of the places I'd be comping in, I'd hate to have one go "PUFF" like a few others I've seen/heard do and not have the LHS have one. That's why I chose the standard switch setup. simple and it's cheaper to carry spares.



With the length of the links, I don't think you'll need to bend them again. If you let them tilt around the cases it should be fine. But if you need to bend them...........Ummm,I'll PM you.:mrgreen:

Krakker 11-03-2009 03:43 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by R2j (Post 2082245)
With the length of the links, I don't think you'll need to bend them again. If you let them tilt around the cases it should be fine. But if you need to bend them...........Ummm,I'll PM you.:mrgreen:

My bad, I was refering to the upper links I've already got on it. I was thinking of making a small jig to bend them just slightly to clear the top of the gear case during compression. It would also let me rotate the rear gear case upwards a bit with out interfering with the link. If you have correct link geometry, the link above the gear case will hit during articulation. "Has anyone else run into this issue?" I've seen other Bully's with slightly bent uppers and figured they had the same issues.


On another note, I did get the ESC in and the wiring routed through the plate. The battery fits NICE inside the chassis, and will get a velcro strap to hold it in. Batt's I picked up are FlightPower, EVO 25's, = 2170mAh 11.1V 25C Lipo's.

Check out the cool Yellow, X-locks!!! They are just as sticky as the standard black ones.

WOUrugger51 11-03-2009 04:21 PM

wow, those tires are L O U D ! ! !
:mrgreen:

papabash 11-06-2009 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krakker (Post 2082692)
If you have correct link geometry, the link above the gear case will hit during articulation. "Has anyone else run into this issue?" I've seen other Bully's with slightly bent uppers and figured they had the same issues.

I was noticing that on my Bully also. I wanted the rear motor clocked up for better clearance on the rocks, but then the links hit the case on one side. I straightened it out some, but it still hits a little at full compression. :-( May have to put a little bend in mine too.

The Eye 11-06-2009 02:01 PM

Nice Build, I LOVE THE CHASSIS "thumbsup" I will be starting my Bully TAG build this weekend so i will look at the link thing. If you need any TAG Line products for you chassis just let me know.

Thanks
Aaron


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