RCCrawler Forums

pmessier · 06-06-2011, 12:47 PM

So I'm currently driving a ax10 upgraded with bender swx chassis, etc. I'm really interested in going with MOA.

I was looking at rc4wd.com, and they have the 2.2 super bully, and 2.2 super bully light weight axles. Are either of these a good choice, and what would be the positives or negatives of going with the light weight one? And does anyone know if that is the price per axle, or the price per set. The regular super bully's are $99, and light weight is $149.

As for running moa, do I just need a punk or rocker dig switch, or do I need to run dual esc? (Sorry I'm still a newb, I'm sure it's been discussed multiple times) I'm actually wondering if the performance of MOA is worth the money too.

Any feedback, would be helpful.

Krakker · 06-06-2011, 01:42 PM

Supers are a class all their own. If you've already got 2.2 parts from your AX10, you'll want to stay with the 2.2 Bully axles so that you have a chance at getting a complete rig up and running.

I would spend some time reading the threads in here and see what others are using for chassis, electronics and what not.

pmessier · 06-06-2011, 03:24 PM

hmm ok. I've been reading, but not sure what I'm leaning towards. I was not aware of the super class, I'll read into that one. I'm not even sure if a moa will be any better then my shafty right now. I'll follow some of the threads here for a while to get a better idea of what people are running.

thanks.

8-454 · 06-07-2011, 01:29 PM

I was in the same boat you are about ten months ago before I wet to my bully.

I'm guessing that your staying with the 2.2, so you'll be able to recycle your wheels, esc, servo, and possibly be able to make your swx work.

Seeing how the cast axles are fairly inexpensive they were what I started with, but after a season of tuning I'm running a lightweight machined rear with delrin tubes. Id recommend getting a cast front and machined rear for starters unless you can afford the lightweights front and rear.

As far as electronics go, I would recommend getting a punk dig for starters. Also a matching motor to the one you already have. If you plan on buying a new pair I would choose something between 35t-45t.

Hope this helps.

pmessier · 06-07-2011, 01:42 PM

Yeah I guess I'm staying with the 2.2. I'm not sure of the specs of the super class. I thought it only allowed rear steering. Still looking into the details.

I was planning on keeping my shafty ax10 as is, so my brother in law has one to use. And building a nicer one for me. I haven't been to any comps or really seen too many crawlers in action other than posted videos. So just judging by them, it looks like the moa will out perform the shafty... but then I keep reading that it depends on the driver. So yes I know I still have a lot to learn on them.

But as far as the axles go, it seems like the bullys are a good choice. Still not sure on the differences. Seening Bully, XLD, and Super Bully. So if I don't go with a super class, my choice is regular Bully or the XLD. Maybe I'm confused on that too. At least I understand the lightweight vs cast now.

As far as the motor, I plan on using 2 integy 45Ts, a mamba max esc, a dig switch to power both motors, and need to decide on a chassis.

Krakker · 06-07-2011, 06:23 PM

If you're going to let your inlaw use the other one, you might as well do a build list and gather parts. It'll be MUCH more cost effective and sticking with a 2.2 means you can both run similar trails with out looking like david and goliath.

pmessier · 06-07-2011, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krakker

If you're going to let your inlaw use the other one, you might as well do a build list and gather parts. It'll be MUCH more cost effective and sticking with a 2.2 means you can both run similar trails with out looking like david and goliath.

Yeah I want to start looking at the classifieds here, but not at 30 posts yet. So I'll start picking up parts off there once I'm able to.

So as far as 2.2 vs super class, is 2.2 the way to go as far as support and number of participants? I'm looking more or less just for back yard fun, and not really trying to compete yet. But I really do want something top notch, and impressive to play with.

Krakker · 06-07-2011, 09:26 PM

You will definantly be happier with the 2.2 class crawlers. Supers really need the terrain and space for them to be fun. Not to mention the availability of parts for 2.2 crawlers such as links, chassis', wheels N tires, etc.

pmessier · 06-10-2011, 11:38 AM

So i've been doing more reading, and super class is definitely out. So I want to stick with 2.2.

As far as the esc and dig switch, I'm running a mamba max esc. Will the drag bakes be enough with this esc to work with the switch and 2 motors? Or am I better off going with a teken fxr esc?

Charlie-III · 06-10-2011, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmessier

As far as the esc and dig switch, I'm running a mamba max esc. Will the drag bakes be enough with this esc to work with the switch and 2 motors? Or am I better off going with a teken fxr esc?

I ran a CC MM & servo dig on my 2.2 Bully, drag brake was great. Not so happy going to a dual ESC setup (because of weaker rear drag brake) but that may be a setup issue. I'm also using 2 different model ESC's, so that may not help either.

pmessier · 06-10-2011, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

I ran a CC MM & servo dig on my 2.2 Bully, drag brake was great. Not so happy going to a dual ESC setup (because of weaker rear drag brake) but that may be a setup issue. I'm also using 2 different model ESC's, so that may not help either.

Is there any advantage to going dual esc over a dig switch? Also is there a wiring diagram for running dual mm escs? I saw one for the fxr, but they direct soldered the wires to both esc... not really down to solder the esc if I can just plug into the dig switch. I'm just not clear on the +/-'s of the setups yet.

Krakker · 06-10-2011, 09:48 PM

Search in the electronics section for dual esc wiring, or dual FXR wiring. The examples will all lead you to the right way to get it done. The MM and dig switch should work fine but if you are wanting to go the dual ESC route, that's when you want to think about the size of the ESC's. I run dual FXR's for their size and most of all performance. They are a perfect fit for my chassis and motor control needs.

The best reason for dual ESC's is control AND weight. Mixing the 2 ESC's you can dial up the front to pull more going up a step hill to keep from flipping backwards, or just over driving the front for turning or side hill control. You can also overdrive the rear for shooting gaps where it's important to get the front wheels up and the rear pushing hard.

As far as direct soldering the wires, it just keeps the weight down. You could add in a bullet connector, but the solder is easy to deal with.

I even wrap my rx antenna inside the rx to keep things tidy and use smaller wire (14G) since it's easy to route and it all that's needed.

Charlie-III · 06-11-2011, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmessier

Is there any advantage to going dual esc over a dig switch? .

I have run a single ESC & servo dig switch as well as dual ESC's, no changes to the rig itself other than that.
Some depends on your radio, a decent 4 channel radio makes it easier to go either route, a 3 channel can work (I have a Futaba 3PM-x) several different ways. I use a WannAmix to drive the 2 ESC's.

As mentioned, you have a lot more options for speed control of each axle speed running dual ESC's.

pmessier · 06-11-2011, 03:11 PM

Thanks for the info, I'm running a dx3r right now. I only have 2 MM esc's so trying to only use one in the crawler. The others in 1/16 erevo, so I'll only pull it to use dual if it gives a way bigger advantage. I think I'll start with a dig switch, and see the limitations after running that for a bit.

06-06-2011, 12:47 PM	#1
pmessier Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: sac Posts: 28	Super bully axle question So I'm currently driving a ax10 upgraded with bender swx chassis, etc. I'm really interested in going with MOA. I was looking at rc4wd.com, and they have the 2.2 super bully, and 2.2 super bully light weight axles. Are either of these a good choice, and what would be the positives or negatives of going with the light weight one? And does anyone know if that is the price per axle, or the price per set. The regular super bully's are $99, and light weight is $149. As for running moa, do I just need a punk or rocker dig switch, or do I need to run dual esc? (Sorry I'm still a newb, I'm sure it's been discussed multiple times) I'm actually wondering if the performance of MOA is worth the money too. Any feedback, would be helpful.

06-06-2011, 01:42 PM	#2
Krakker I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned. Posts: 2,011	Supers are a class all their own. If you've already got 2.2 parts from your AX10, you'll want to stay with the 2.2 Bully axles so that you have a chance at getting a complete rig up and running. I would spend some time reading the threads in here and see what others are using for chassis, electronics and what not.

06-06-2011, 03:24 PM	#3
pmessier Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: sac Posts: 28	hmm ok. I've been reading, but not sure what I'm leaning towards. I was not aware of the super class, I'll read into that one. I'm not even sure if a moa will be any better then my shafty right now. I'll follow some of the threads here for a while to get a better idea of what people are running. thanks.

06-07-2011, 01:29 PM	#4
8-454 Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Displacement Posts: 525	I was in the same boat you are about ten months ago before I wet to my bully. I'm guessing that your staying with the 2.2, so you'll be able to recycle your wheels, esc, servo, and possibly be able to make your swx work. Seeing how the cast axles are fairly inexpensive they were what I started with, but after a season of tuning I'm running a lightweight machined rear with delrin tubes. Id recommend getting a cast front and machined rear for starters unless you can afford the lightweights front and rear. As far as electronics go, I would recommend getting a punk dig for starters. Also a matching motor to the one you already have. If you plan on buying a new pair I would choose something between 35t-45t. Hope this helps.

06-07-2011, 01:42 PM	#5
pmessier Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: sac Posts: 28	Yeah I guess I'm staying with the 2.2. I'm not sure of the specs of the super class. I thought it only allowed rear steering. Still looking into the details. I was planning on keeping my shafty ax10 as is, so my brother in law has one to use. And building a nicer one for me. I haven't been to any comps or really seen too many crawlers in action other than posted videos. So just judging by them, it looks like the moa will out perform the shafty... but then I keep reading that it depends on the driver. So yes I know I still have a lot to learn on them. But as far as the axles go, it seems like the bullys are a good choice. Still not sure on the differences. Seening Bully, XLD, and Super Bully. So if I don't go with a super class, my choice is regular Bully or the XLD. Maybe I'm confused on that too. At least I understand the lightweight vs cast now. As far as the motor, I plan on using 2 integy 45Ts, a mamba max esc, a dig switch to power both motors, and need to decide on a chassis.

06-07-2011, 06:23 PM	#6
Krakker I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned. Posts: 2,011	If you're going to let your inlaw use the other one, you might as well do a build list and gather parts. It'll be MUCH more cost effective and sticking with a 2.2 means you can both run similar trails with out looking like david and goliath.

06-07-2011, 09:26 PM	#8
Krakker I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned. Posts: 2,011	You will definantly be happier with the 2.2 class crawlers. Supers really need the terrain and space for them to be fun. Not to mention the availability of parts for 2.2 crawlers such as links, chassis', wheels N tires, etc.

06-10-2011, 11:38 AM	#9
pmessier Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: sac Posts: 28	So i've been doing more reading, and super class is definitely out. So I want to stick with 2.2. As far as the esc and dig switch, I'm running a mamba max esc. Will the drag bakes be enough with this esc to work with the switch and 2 motors? Or am I better off going with a teken fxr esc?

06-10-2011, 09:48 PM	#12
Krakker I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Where freedom is earned. Posts: 2,011	Search in the electronics section for dual esc wiring, or dual FXR wiring. The examples will all lead you to the right way to get it done. The MM and dig switch should work fine but if you are wanting to go the dual ESC route, that's when you want to think about the size of the ESC's. I run dual FXR's for their size and most of all performance. They are a perfect fit for my chassis and motor control needs. The best reason for dual ESC's is control AND weight. Mixing the 2 ESC's you can dial up the front to pull more going up a step hill to keep from flipping backwards, or just over driving the front for turning or side hill control. You can also overdrive the rear for shooting gaps where it's important to get the front wheels up and the rear pushing hard. As far as direct soldering the wires, it just keeps the weight down. You could add in a bullet connector, but the solder is easy to deal with. I even wrap my rx antenna inside the rx to keep things tidy and use smaller wire (14G) since it's easy to route and it all that's needed.

06-11-2011, 03:11 PM	#14
pmessier Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: sac Posts: 28	Thanks for the info, I'm running a dx3r right now. I only have 2 MM esc's so trying to only use one in the crawler. The others in 1/16 erevo, so I'll only pull it to use dual if it gives a way bigger advantage. I think I'll start with a dig switch, and see the limitations after running that for a bit.

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