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Old 05-21-2014, 05:30 PM   #61
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Default Re: Josh's Bully 2

This little piggy weights in at 4.73#. Pounds not hashtags people.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:36 PM   #62
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Oh yeah your up into the sweet spot.
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Old 05-22-2014, 08:56 AM   #63
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Finally got to see the sun shine and run it some. After 2 packs added knuckle weight has improved down hill performance the most. helped a little with side hill. Steep climbs are the same. The extra weight has killed the drag brake. On a steep climb when I put it in dig the rear lets loose and rolls backwards. I suspect puller motors will erase this issue.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:50 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by josh6575 View Post
Finally got to see the sun shine and run it some. After 2 packs added knuckle weight has improved down hill performance the most. helped a little with side hill. Steep climbs are the same. The extra weight has killed the drag brake. On a steep climb when I put it in dig the rear lets loose and rolls backwards. I suspect puller motors will erase this issue.
Mine is 4lb 11oz, and I just have integy cans and crawler 213% rear drag and it holds mine fine. Maybe you need stronger springs on your brushes. It makes a big difference.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:52 AM   #65
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Went from all skid to none. Just couldn't get the full skid to agree so I went with none. I already don't like getting caught on the rear motor so I have been thinking about something for that. Any way here is the finish product of the chassis center and some side panels.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:40 AM   #66
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Why is there glue all over your rod ends, extra material for rock wear?
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:55 PM   #67
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You caught me. Ended up drilling holes and moving them up after seeing it start to eat through the rod ends. Super glue is super slippery after it dries. And what ever other lame excuse I can come up with for being a cheep skate and not replacing the worn rod ends.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:55 PM   #68
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How does it sidehill with that no skid setup?
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:29 PM   #69
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Chris that is a strange question. It side hills good but could be better. I think a half pound lighter in the motor department, rear knuckle weight, and a little more fine tuning to the upper links should sort it all out.
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:02 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by josh6575 View Post
Went from all skid to none. Just couldn't get the full skid to agree so I went with none. I already don't like getting caught on the rear motor so I have been thinking about something for that. Any way here is the finish product of the chassis center and some side panels.
Now that is a skinny chassis! I can't believe you managed to still fit some electronics in between the frame.

With all of those adjustment holes you must be able to create just about any stance.

How hard is it to drill through CF cleanly?
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:43 PM   #71
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It is very adjustable. I like being able to play around with using different length upper and lower links just to see what it does. You have to have a good sharp drill bit to get through without pushing the material. I want to try a 3mm carbide drill bit sometime to see if it works better than typical ones.
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:09 PM   #72
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Put some puller 500 30t motors and dropped the weight down to 4.5#. It has that something is missing feel to it when I pick it up know. Also put in some Gunnar hex pins. These things are a nice snug fit. Hopefully this will cure some of the wheel looseness. Drilled through my upper link mounts and run my uppers more parallel to each other.
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:28 PM   #73
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How far did you space out your uppers?

Did you space them the same front and rear?

What position are your link mounts in front and back?

What holes are you upper links in at the axles?
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:46 PM   #74
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The front is spaced more than the rear since they are further apart in the chassis. The mounts are all the way up front and rear.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:02 PM   #75
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Interesting, my link mounts are dropped all the way down and my links are in the bottom most holes.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:19 PM   #76
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Your chassis is made to use axles that the uppers are closer to the lowers. The amount of adjustment with these axles will allow the use of almost any chassis. Its like they made axles just for my experimenting nature.
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:21 PM   #77
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Cool man, far out.
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Old 05-30-2014, 09:53 PM   #78
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Got a chance to try out the recent adjustments. The lightened weight improved the ability to get a tire to grab on the littlest things. More paralleled uppers had it settling in a bit more easily. With these insanely grippy tires it hard to tune around. I lengthened my front upper links to try to get the rear to break loose a bit easier. There is so much traction to the rear now that it tries to shove the rear axle up underneath itself when I try to rear dig. I love to use rear dig so this is a problem for me. If this don't get it I am going to try putting some silver compound voodoo's on the rear. I have blue all the way around right now. It seems the stiffer tires bite a whole lot harder to me.
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:36 PM   #79
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Lengthening the front uppers and lowering the rear at the upper trans. mount got the rear to free up and settle back down. I got my rear dig back. Run seven courses today and was very happy with the adjustments. Only have one concern. When I started the rear of my rig was 10 3/4" after the end of the day it was 10". I am trying to sort out if I should keep using wider spacers on the hubs or tear down the wheels and use 1" spacers instead of 3/4". This is killing the rear on sidehills.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:40 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by josh6575 View Post
Got a chance to try out the recent adjustments. The lightened weight improved the ability to get a tire to grab on the littlest things. More paralleled uppers had it settling in a bit more easily. With these insanely grippy tires it hard to tune around. I lengthened my front upper links to try to get the rear to break loose a bit easier. There is so much traction to the rear now that it tries to shove the rear axle up underneath itself when I try to rear dig. I love to use rear dig so this is a problem for me. If this don't get it I am going to try putting some silver compound voodoo's on the rear. I have blue all the way around right now. It seems the stiffer tires bite a whole lot harder to me.
what exactly is "getting it"? I've made lots of changes to make my crawler do x better but then y suffers. Is there a perfect set up? I don't think so. What exactly is driving your changes?

For example, I've gained a ton in breakover and pull up over a ledge, but i've lost a fair amount of sidehilling. I'm really just normalizing my rig to the guys rigs that I crawl with. Is it better? I think it is, but I've made sacrifices, for sure.
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